Amp / Voltage draw issue.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Check the map lights in the visor as well. .. snip...

and the light that goes on when you open the center console.
If it is out of adjustment .... kills battery. if it stays on when the lid
is shut.
This one I know

[robbz28]

Originally Posted by scottfab

and the light that goes on when you open the center console.
If it is out of adjustment .... kills battery. if it stays on when the lid
is shut.
This one I know

That light don't work, not sure whats up with that, I tried to change the bulb and that didnt help, I hooked a test light up to it and got nothing...such an insignificant thing I'll worry about it later, but it might be a related incident (or just a bad connection). Anyway, I got my notepad out and hopefully this weekend can recruit my brother (a fellow zr1 owner) to help me pinpoint my issue.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by robbz28

Its been like this since i got the car...it sits for longer than a week and it needs a charge. I have had the car for about 6 weeks. It is a side post battery and the lights do turn off. The visor lights are off as well.

Based upon this response. Time to move onto -=Jeffs=- suggestion. Your brother can help you out during the fuse pulling multimeter process. GC

[Corbusa]

Mine does the same thing , It / mine is just as ghlkal said , I have both after market stereo and aftermarket alarm . I like both features so I keep it on a trickle charger..

[scottfab]

Mine will last about 2-3 weeks without a trickle charger.

Here is the manual page with the table of what things should
draw what current. It requires the DVM be put inline with the battery as
has already been suggested.

[gbrtng]

Originally Posted by robbz28

I plan on measuring and testing...looks like i have something to do this weekend...

I just measured my 91 with a clip-on DC ammeter - I see 0.010 to 0.020
amperes on a meter with 0.00 resolution. So it's safe to say that my stock
ZR-1 draws less than 30 milliamperes at rest. I think the manual says less than 50 milliamperes, but that's from memory ...

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by gbrtng

I just measured my 91 with a clip-on DC ammeter - I see 0.010 to 0.020
amperes on a meter with 0.00 resolution. So it's safe to say that my stock
ZR-1 draws less than 30 milliamperes at rest. I think the manual says less than 50 milliamperes, but that's from memory ...

That's what he needed for a start and I believe everything that I've ever seen wanted less than 30Ma, 20Ma is great, FSM says "add circuits" and most electrical shops will accept less than 50Ma. Looking at the FSM information posted after checking the AMP I might go directly to the "HEADLAMP MODULE". If a headlamp has worn bushings and maybe doesn't complete the "park" I imagine that would likely be a substantial draw.

[robbz28]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

That's what he needed for a start and I believe everything that I've ever seen wanted less than 30Ma, 20Ma is great, FSM says "add circuits" and most electrical shops will accept less than 50Ma. Looking at the FSM information posted after checking the AMP I might go directly to the "HEADLAMP MODULE". If a headlamp has worn bushings and maybe doesn't complete the "park" I imagine that would likely be a substantial draw.

Well this made me take notice...I wish i wasnt stuck at my desk or I'd go check some things out, but my headlights are in need of repair, the drivers side has a bad gear and don't open all the way without a little help. It definately has a stripped tooth somewhere, and when it closes it keeps running and bumping for a few seconds afterward...so it may not be completing the "park" either as you put it...

[robbz28]

I also just got online and ordered me a pair of bronze headlight gears...gonna fix that while im at it.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by robbz28

I also just got online and ordered me a pair of bronze headlight gears...gonna fix that while im at it.

You might have over reacted just a bit there but that's not a big deal. If the gear package includes the bushings fine if not you need to get some of those also. A MAM kit I think is both. Here's what I meant when I mentioned "bushings" and there's three per side:


The gears aren't often needed but if you're in there why not. I'd only be concerned with the electrical diagnosis this time. Check the draw first before tampering with the head lamps. If you show "no draw" then I'd cycle the lamps before I did any thing else and when they don't park or stutter check the load again.

Here's a link "DaveK" posted regarding the H/L repair: http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html