Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston

[ammrpm]

Reverse bleed the system. It worked like a charm. I tried my mityvac first, but it just could not apply enough pressure to force fluid through the system. After talking with Rick, he told me to try a big syringe to force the fluid up through the system. Well I got out a big syringe that is mainly used to measure and mix gasoline. I believe it is called a mixmizer. Filled it full of 50 cc of clutch fluid and forced it right through the bleeder valve up to the cup on the master. I had a clutch pedal in 5 minutes.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

Aaron

[Kb7tif]

Heres How I did mine, with advice from a person who changed several.
Replace master and slave. Open bleedvalve on slave. Pour fluid into new master. Let fluid pour thru system and catch excess in container. Close bleed screw on master. Now this is the way I did it.
Open drivers side window. Use a Peice of wood or baseball bat to depress the clutch peddel while watching the clutch master. Watch the fluid for very small bubbles comming to the top while depressing the clutch peddel for only the first 1-2 inches of travel. Push down let bubbles escape release and repeat. Will take a bit 5-10 mins. The peddel show come right up and mine was 80% stiff. A few full depresses at full travel with the foot and I had A ROCK solid peddel. No Mighty Vac, no pumping the hell out of the peddel ect. Have fun.

[ammrpm]

Well, I finished putting everything back together and took the car out for a spin. The car seems to shift through all of the gears just fine, both at low and high rpms. One observation though, the clutch seems to engage just a little sooner than it did before. Don't know if this is just because of the different master and slave combination or if it may still have some air in the line.

One other thing I noticed as well... the new master did not come with a moisture barrier. I tried to put the one from the original master into the new one, but it does not quite fit and the cap will not close with it in there. So I just left it out. Does anyone think this will cause a problem? The cap on the new master does seem to have some kind of rubber seal at the top, but it definitely does not have something that sticks down into the reservoir like the original one. Just so you know the new master is a cast unit that was bought from Advance Auto.

[tomtom72]

Yea, talk about saving a nickle! The new cast masters don't come with that barrier unless you bought a DOM type from GM. I'm not even sure that GM sells our parts as they did go NLA back when they had quality control issues.

I suck out the fluid in the master when it starts to look cloudy and pour in fresh stuff, repeat a few times till it looks better after driving. Or you can just do another reverse bleed when it gets cloudy. It usually takes me a few weeks to get most of the cloudy stuff out and the get the fluid to remain fairly clear again.

Oh, up top on the 'start to feel the clutch' point is that what you are finding? I'm not 100% sure but mine is the same way. I think that's correct.


Tom