Coolant tube bolts

[VetteMed]

I did a big no-no when disassembling mine, but it worked out OK in the end. I used a thin-bladed screwdriver as a wedge to try to separate the coolant tube from the IH. Also, I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to attack the bolt shaft from the tiny gap where the gasket sits. It was enough to allow a little more angle for PB Blaster to work its way into the rusted areas. Far from ideal, but it worked in the end.

[LGAFF]

MAP gas torch did not work, I had soaked the bolts for 5 days in PB blaster, not moving.....WTF!

[phrogs]

drill them bitches out, you know what you have its disimilar metal corrosion.


If you want you can send them to me Ill get them apart for you.

or you could drill them out probably need to remove them and use a drill press since its the long part of the stud in the tube.
Or use a hammer to try to disloge the coolant pipe from the injector housing.
You could try a putty knife a strong one to try to get them apart

it sucks but I feel your pain almost everytime I do this I have at least one break but not 7 of them!

[LGAFF]

135K miles on these, so that probably does not help

[LGAFF]

Veni, vidi, vicifahne

[LGNDLT5]

Lee I used a bic lighter. Heat just the head of the bolt the heat will travel mostly down the length of the bolt. Used WD40 and hammer tapped the torx socket (gently on the head to shock/vibrate the WD into the corossion); heat, soak, tap, repeat etc. etc. Took a couple of hours. VERY IMPORTANT do not try to just loosen/muscle it out. Move slightly toward loosen 5 degress or less and the back tight again REPEATEDLY ALTERNATING back and forth with very gentle pressure, TIGHTEN-LOOSEN ETC. UNTIL YOU've WORKED THE THREADS A BIT LOOSE. THEN THE WD WILL SOAK IN. John Sullivan

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by BOB HDZ

heat!

I know this is an old thread...and I know this issue has come up many times since this thread was created.

I have to say the ONLY way to really remove the Injector Housing Bolts (those bolts that are corroded into place either the threaded area within the Injector Housing or the threaded area of the bolt within the Coolant Manifolds) is HEAT.

I use an Acetylene Torch gently heating the Injector Housing threaded area as well as the length of the Injector Housing containing each bolt. I heat the Injector Housing and Coolant Manifold area around each Torx bolt and remove each bolt separately.

If the bolt offers excessive resistance to torque, I heat again getting the specific area (threaded into Injector Housing and non thread hole through Coolant Manifold) just a bit hotter. Then try moderate torque (SAY 90 IN-LBS) on the Torx Bolt.

Never strip the Torx and keep pressure into the bolt when applying torque. It is best to use a long wrench such as this combination LONG HANDLE Flex Ratchet Wrench and Definitely USE HEAT. ALWAYS follow up with a tap to clean old corrosion from all threaded holes and in this case the 6mm x 1.0 Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Torx threaded Bolt Holes.



This from Harbor Freight......
14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Coolant Manifold, Plenum, and Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench (DEFINITELY USE HEAT ON INJECTOR HOUSING COOLANT MANIFOLD TORX BOLTS and only LIGHT TORQUE (SAY 90 IN-LBS) TO REMOVE TORX BOLTS. The Long Handle Combination Wrench allows easy and smooth application of the moderate torque for Torx Bolt removal.

Tools for LT5 Mechanics TIPS

Here is an associated and related post on Cam Cover Removal (removal of Torx 40 Bolts) with Engine in car Removing Cam Covers for Inspections of Camshafts

[Paul Workman]

Good to know, Cliff!

Were you ever in "Uncle Sam's Haze-Gray Yacht Club" (aka US Navy), you would know well the phenomenon that exists between steel bolts and aluminum.

Along those lines, (somewhere) I have a 3/8" drive impact tool that I bought at Harbor Freight, specifically to remove several "frozen" torx screws on the coolant tubes. Like you, Cliff, with a little help from the "blue wrench" (oxyacetylene) on the screw heads, followed by a sharp smack with a light ball-peen hammer on the impact tool, the screws popped loose (since replaced with stainless Allan cap screws).

I don't know which is better, PB Blaster or Kroil. I've used Kroil mixed with ammonia/powder solvent to release copper fouling that tends to weld itself to the inside of rifle bores. And I've used it on a few exhaust manifold nuts (with success too). It seems (to me) the Kroil seems to be thinner, i.e., less viscus, and is perhaps a little better than PB, when you can find it!

Anyway, HEAT together with a sharp wrap - even if I don't have the impact driver handy - seems to work as well as anything, I find.

[XfireZ51]

Paul,

I've used both PB and Kroil. By far Kroil is the best. The brake pad guide pins on the Z06 calipers have habit of seizing. I broke 3 Torx bits trying to remove one in particular. After hitting it with Kroil and getting the caliper hot, it finally let go.
Used it for years and it's pretty amazing. As for buying it, I order it directly from them
here. http://www.kanolabs.com