Stage 1 Porting - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Paul Workman · 06-20-2010

I started a thread a while back on the subject of favorite porting tools. It proved quite interesting, I think.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....hlight=Porting

As for the bits fouling, plain ol WD40 on the work and on the bit worked extremely well for me - far as cutting and keeping the bur clean.

After trying a variety of tools, both electric and pneumatic - cheap and better quality, I guess it is no surprise that the good stuff is waaaaaay better than the cheapo stuff, IMO.

My favorite tool is the long Snap-On pneumatic. It is relatively light weight, and very controllable when using both hands, speed is infinitely variable continuously, and is instantly on or off. By draping the hose over my shoulder and using both hands on the tool, locking elbows and using my legs and hips to move me and the tool as one...worked very well for me.

For certain "easy does it" jobs, especially at lower speeds, I found the electric grinder has its place as well. But, I almost gave them up because using them in conjunction with a speed controller, the torque left a lot to be desired, and the speed would drop under load

.

However, the Makita mentioned in the thread is a whole different animal! It is a constant speed tool, and even at low speeds there is tons of torque and speed is constant under load. Quite a tool, to be sure.

Have a look. Anything you want, I can get less than 10 minutes from my work at Fleetwood tool in Addison, or the Snap-On dealer practically next door to Fleetwood.

P.

PS I tried using the Harbor freight speed controller on a modest quality electric

XfireZ51 · 06-20-2010

I used a good quality electric grinder with a Harbor Freight speed control. The burrs are double fluted to avoid cutting too deeply. Makes for a smoother finish to begin with. Then various grit ball hone to finish it up.

LGAFF · 06-20-2010

4.5hrs on the 1st IH and they are pretty much done......36mm at the top, moved to 35 at the boss, and narrows to 33mm at the IH to head surface.

Bosses are gone.

2ndries are at 36mm

I am interested to see the performance difference if any, its amazing how much time it takes to open up the area after the boss and the IH to head surface in comparison.(meaning going to a few mm/36 takes forever in comparison)

flyin ryan · 06-22-2010

ATF works good too. Keep some in a cup & dip your burr....

Locobob · 06-22-2010

I use a spray lube called Mega Foamcut, Ace Hardware has it.

Paul Workman · 06-22-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyin ryan

Keep some in a cup & dip your burr....

Are you talking about porting or porking????

P.

LGAFF · 06-27-2010

Would anyone be interested in doing this type of set up for $425 plus shipping?

Let me see what my total time into it would be....I believe that this porting is not much different than what some charge much more for and is considered fully ported.

Hammer · 06-27-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Are you talking about porting or porking????

P.

LGAFF · 06-27-2010

Not cleaned up yet.....but you get the picture

Topfuel · 07-03-2010

When porting aluminum use bar soap on the bit or use ATF dip bit into one or the other ever so often it really keep the bit from gumming up. Soap seams to work better for me. ATF or WD-40 adds oil to the pores of the aluminum and if you have to weld on the Aluminum afterwards the oil will mess up the welding just my .02 worth
By the way looks good that is what I did to mine much much better than stock. Keep the slightly rough surface on the ports helps keep the boundry layer smaller on the air flow.

06-20-2010	#11
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Favorite tools I started a thread a while back on the subject of favorite porting tools. It proved quite interesting, I think. http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....hlight=Porting As for the bits fouling, plain ol WD40 on the work and on the bit worked extremely well for me - far as cutting and keeping the bur clean. After trying a variety of tools, both electric and pneumatic - cheap and better quality, I guess it is no surprise that the good stuff is waaaaaay better than the cheapo stuff, IMO. My favorite tool is the long Snap-On pneumatic. It is relatively light weight, and very controllable when using both hands, speed is infinitely variable continuously, and is instantly on or off. By draping the hose over my shoulder and using both hands on the tool, locking elbows and using my legs and hips to move me and the tool as one...worked very well for me. For certain "easy does it" jobs, especially at lower speeds, I found the electric grinder has its place as well. But, I almost gave them up because using them in conjunction with a speed controller, the torque left a lot to be desired, and the speed would drop under load. However, the Makita mentioned in the thread is a whole different animal! It is a constant speed tool, and even at low speeds there is tons of torque and speed is constant under load. Quite a tool, to be sure. Have a look. Anything you want, I can get less than 10 minutes from my work at Fleetwood tool in Addison, or the Snap-On dealer practically next door to Fleetwood. P. PS I tried using the Harbor freight speed controller on a modest quality electric __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-22-2010 at 05:30 AM.

06-20-2010	#12
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,696	Re: Stage 1 Porting I used a good quality electric grinder with a Harbor Freight speed control. The burrs are double fluted to avoid cutting too deeply. Makes for a smoother finish to begin with. Then various grit ball hone to finish it up.

06-20-2010	#13
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: Stage 1 Porting 4.5hrs on the 1st IH and they are pretty much done......36mm at the top, moved to 35 at the boss, and narrows to 33mm at the IH to head surface. Bosses are gone. 2ndries are at 36mm I am interested to see the performance difference if any, its amazing how much time it takes to open up the area after the boss and the IH to head surface in comparison.(meaning going to a few mm/36 takes forever in comparison) __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 Last edited by LGAFF; 06-20-2010 at 04:09 PM.

06-22-2010	#14
flyin ryan Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,742	Re: Stage 1 Porting ATF works good too. Keep some in a cup & dip your burr.... __________________ There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y.

06-22-2010	#15
Locobob Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 1,057	Re: Stage 1 Porting I use a spray lube called Mega Foamcut, Ace Hardware has it. __________________ Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368

06-27-2010	#17
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: Stage 1 Porting Would anyone be interested in doing this type of set up for $425 plus shipping? Let me see what my total time into it would be....I believe that this porting is not much different than what some charge much more for and is considered fully ported. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

06-27-2010	#19
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: Stage 1 Porting Not cleaned up yet.....but you get the picture __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

07-03-2010	#20
Topfuel Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 43	Re: Stage 1 Porting When porting aluminum use bar soap on the bit or use ATF dip bit into one or the other ever so often it really keep the bit from gumming up. Soap seams to work better for me. ATF or WD-40 adds oil to the pores of the aluminum and if you have to weld on the Aluminum afterwards the oil will mess up the welding just my .02 worth By the way looks good that is what I did to mine much much better than stock. Keep the slightly rough surface on the ports helps keep the boundry layer smaller on the air flow.