06-20-2010 | #11 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Favorite tools
I started a thread a while back on the subject of favorite porting tools. It proved quite interesting, I think.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....hlight=Porting As for the bits fouling, plain ol WD40 on the work and on the bit worked extremely well for me - far as cutting and keeping the bur clean. After trying a variety of tools, both electric and pneumatic - cheap and better quality, I guess it is no surprise that the good stuff is waaaaaay better than the cheapo stuff, IMO. My favorite tool is the long Snap-On pneumatic. It is relatively light weight, and very controllable when using both hands, speed is infinitely variable continuously, and is instantly on or off. By draping the hose over my shoulder and using both hands on the tool, locking elbows and using my legs and hips to move me and the tool as one...worked very well for me. For certain "easy does it" jobs, especially at lower speeds, I found the electric grinder has its place as well. But, I almost gave them up because using them in conjunction with a speed controller, the torque left a lot to be desired, and the speed would drop under load. However, the Makita mentioned in the thread is a whole different animal! It is a constant speed tool, and even at low speeds there is tons of torque and speed is constant under load. Quite a tool, to be sure. Have a look. Anything you want, I can get less than 10 minutes from my work at Fleetwood tool in Addison, or the Snap-On dealer practically next door to Fleetwood. P. PS I tried using the Harbor freight speed controller on a modest quality electric
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-22-2010 at 06:30 AM. |
06-20-2010 | #12 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,708
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
I used a good quality electric grinder with a Harbor Freight speed control. The burrs are double fluted to avoid cutting too deeply. Makes for a smoother finish to begin with. Then various grit ball hone to finish it up.
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06-20-2010 | #13 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,194
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
4.5hrs on the 1st IH and they are pretty much done......36mm at the top, moved to 35 at the boss, and narrows to 33mm at the IH to head surface.
Bosses are gone. 2ndries are at 36mm I am interested to see the performance difference if any, its amazing how much time it takes to open up the area after the boss and the IH to head surface in comparison.(meaning going to a few mm/36 takes forever in comparison)
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 Last edited by LGAFF; 06-20-2010 at 05:09 PM. |
06-22-2010 | #14 |
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,741
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
ATF works good too. Keep some in a cup & dip your burr....
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There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y. |
06-22-2010 | #15 |
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,057
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
I use a spray lube called Mega Foamcut, Ace Hardware has it.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
06-22-2010 | #16 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
Are you talking about porting or porking????
P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
06-27-2010 | #17 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,194
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
Would anyone be interested in doing this type of set up for $425 plus shipping?
Let me see what my total time into it would be....I believe that this porting is not much different than what some charge much more for and is considered fully ported.
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
06-27-2010 | #18 |
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ideho
Posts: 2,653
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
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[I][FONT=Comic Sans MS]John Boyd[/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]Ideho[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1][I]2015 ZL1 [/I][I]Camaro #1121 BLACK/BLACK 6 SPD (540 RWHP)[/I][/SIZE][/FONT] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]1991 ZR-1 #458 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK 72[/COLOR]k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B]) 1991 ZR-1 #473 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK [/COLOR]37k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B])[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] |
06-27-2010 | #19 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,194
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
Not cleaned up yet.....but you get the picture
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
07-03-2010 | #20 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 43
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Re: Stage 1 Porting
When porting aluminum use bar soap on the bit or use ATF dip bit into one or the other ever so often it really keep the bit from gumming up. Soap seams to work better for me. ATF or WD-40 adds oil to the pores of the aluminum and if you have to weld on the Aluminum afterwards the oil will mess up the welding just my .02 worth
By the way looks good that is what I did to mine much much better than stock. Keep the slightly rough surface on the ports helps keep the boundry layer smaller on the air flow. |
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