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Old 01-06-2010   #11
USAFPILOT
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

my actuators are in fact on backwards...I was told that it probably left the factory that way and that after 44000 Miles I shouldn't switch them. I am going to install my new injectors when I get back from vegas, maybe I will turn them around. I still dynod 356 rwhp with it the way it is, but ricks car does feel like it has more punch at least initially. A faster throttle response makes sense to me. I,m hoping my injectors will fix my idle problems and get my hp back up into the 360's,maybe reversing the actuators will help some.
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Old 01-06-2010   #12
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by USAFPILOT View Post
my actuators are in fact on backwards...I was told that it probably left the factory that way and that after 44000 Miles I shouldn't switch them.
I have been watching this thread and it just occurs to me you are talking the vacuum actuators for the secondaries as pictured here? If so....the shafts on mine were 180 deg off and I just rotated both vacuum canisters 180 deg a couple days ago

The shafts now are going straight back from the canister rather than at an angle and look a lot better than they did before

If this is what GOLDCYLON is talking about, he definitely has a point worth considering (actually he is always on point) and yes if both USAFPILOT and myself have the same vacuum actuator issue....well


Last edited by Dynomite; 02-02-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #13
Paul Workman
 
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Default But then again...

...Ya could pull ALLA that crap and cure about 100% of your vacuum secondary headaches...forever! Talk about a snappy throttle response!



But, on a more serious side, assuming the mechanical dimensions are close, then it is things like cam timing, spark timing, fuel/air ratio, plug condition, etc, etc. etc. that makes up the tune; aside from passenger perceptions, It could be one of those things. How do they compare on the dyno (is a better question)?

P.
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Old 01-06-2010   #14
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: But then again...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Workman View Post
...Ya could pull ALLA that crap and cure about 100% of your vacuum secondary headaches...forever! Talk about a snappy throttle response!

But, on a more serious side, assuming the mechanical dimensions are close, then it is things like cam timing, spark timing, fuel/air ratio, plug condition, etc, etc. etc. that makes up the tune; aside from passenger perceptions, It could be one of those things. How do they compare on the dyno (is a better question)?

P.
I am close to eliminating the secondaries but my secondary crap looked in great condition and and....and.....I am still thinking

I did eliminate all my air induction system when I installed SW headers

I am timing the cam shafts using my own method http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...t=10750&page=2

I have installed new spark plugs, new coils, new plug wires....and I am hoping for a great passenger perception

Last edited by Dynomite; 01-06-2010 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #15
GOLDCYLON
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
I have been watching this thread and it just occurs to me you are talking the vacuum actuators for the secondaries as pictured here? If so....the shafts on mine were 180 deg off and I just rotated both vacuum canisters 180 deg a couple days ago

The shafts now are going straight back from the canister rather than at an angle and look a lot better than they did before

If this is what GOLDCYLON is talking about, he definitely has a point worth considering (actually he is always on point) and yes if both USAFPILOT and myself have the same vacuum actuator issue....well

Yep thats what I talking about ! I realize the ODDs in reguards to the OPs original post however it still remains a possibility. Especially since two other members have noticed the same issue.
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91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat

90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat

11 RED/GREY CTS-V

Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 01-06-2010 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #16
32valvZ
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by USAFPILOT View Post
my actuators are in fact on backwards...I was told that it probably left the factory that way and that after 44000 Miles I shouldn't switch them. I am going to install my new injectors when I get back from vegas, maybe I will turn them around. I still dynod 356 rwhp with it the way it is, but ricks car does feel like it has more punch at least initially. A faster throttle response makes sense to me. I,m hoping my injectors will fix my idle problems and get my hp back up into the 360's,maybe reversing the actuators will help some.
I would just buy new ones. If you turn them around now you will more than likely have future trouble. The rubber diaphragm has now taken a shape from heat cycling and being installed as it has. When you flip them around the brittle rubber is forced into a new position and will eventually crack. Think of a wire hanger when you bend it back and forth quickly to break it in half, same concept.

If you do get new ones, check them with a vacuum gauge and make sure they pull in straight & evenly. I went through 11 cans before finding 2 that were perfect.

When I reassembled the secondary system, I put a dab of white assembly lube on every moving pivot point. My secondaries work flawlessly and without any lag time.

Last edited by 32valvZ; 01-06-2010 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #17
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON View Post
Yep thats what I talking about ! I realize the ODDs in reguards to the OPs original post however it still remains a possibility. Especially since two other members have noticed the same issue.
I might be mistaken here but can you look down through the plenum and actually see if you have this problem without removing anything

Last edited by Dynomite; 01-06-2010 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #18
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32valvZ View Post
I would just buy new ones. If you turn them around now you will more than likely have future trouble. The rubber diaphragm has now taken a shape from heat cycling and being installed as it has. When you flip them around the brittle rubber is forced into a new position and will eventually crack. Think of a wire hanger when you bend it back and forth quickly to break it in half, same concept.

If you do get new ones, check them with a vacuum gauge and make sure they pull in straight & evenly. I went through 11 cans before finding 2 that were perfect.

When I reassembled the secondary system, I put a dab of white assembly lube on every moving pivot point. My secondaries work flawlessly and without any lag time.
Where do you get new vacuum canisters? I see a couple on Ebay for $89 each. Are they that expensive? I shall dab white greese mine today

Last edited by Dynomite; 01-06-2010 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 01-06-2010   #19
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

I would have to say that I agree with Jeff and Ryan about the passenger seat thing. I think that as a passenger you are not occupied by driving the car and have nothing else to pay attention to except the sensation of speed? The only other thing that I can think of is that it's your car, and after awhile you get used to it? I know when i first got mine I thought "jez this thing is quick!" And now five yrs down the road I think, "hummmm, this seems to be losing it's edge?" Okay, okay, no wise cracks about "it's the wrench that's working on the car!"

I know I get the same feeling when I ride shot gun in Lou's Z. His car feels quicker/faster than mine and they're both 90's...although his motor was rebuilt and I'm sure that his cams are timed exactly where Lotus intended them to be. Could just having the cams timed to the correct factory specs make that much of a difference on a bone stock motor? I tell Lou all the time it's the cams being timed correctly vs my "iffy" OE cam timing is why I tell him his is quicker.
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Old 01-06-2010   #20
GOLDCYLON
 
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Default Re: Kinda strange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
I might be mistaken here but can you look down through the plenum and actually see if you have this problem without removing anything
Again correct !

Also I will not suggest reusing the same Vacuum secondary actuator I would try to replace it unless I was in a pinch. Yes they are expensive little buggers and they have a high fail rate out of the box. When you test them if they pull to one side vs. straight they are toast. A little hand pump (Calm yourselves) can determine that real quick.
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91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat

90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat

11 RED/GREY CTS-V

Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 01-06-2010 at 12:00 PM.
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