Help! Engine Noise - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Scrrem · 12-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aurora40

I'd say try to track down where it's coming from before resorting to anything drastic. Can you grab a camera, pop the hood, and get a video of the sound?

Ok, here it is. Hopefully you can view it. Don't know why you can't upload video to our site.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZC7sxxuRLo

Rich

12-13-2009

Rich,

Like Ccmano said, try to run it for a short time without the drive belt. My waterpump did sound like that when mine went bad even though my first sign was coolant seepage.

GOLDCYLON · 12-13-2009

Sure sounds like the water pump the idler pully is not jumping around wildly either. Easy to replace all you need to do is remove the air horn to get to it. That and a crap load of bolts

Whens the last time you changed the hoses? You will need to invest in a dorman hose puller to get those pesty OEM clamps of

Scrrem · 12-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Sure sounds like the water pump the idler pully is not jumping around wildly either. Easy to replace all you need to do is remove the air horn to get to it. That and a crap load of bolts

Whens the last time you changed the hoses? You will need to invest in a dorman hose pull to get those pesty OEM clamps of

No, I put the probe directly on the idler pully bracket. Good, glad to hear I don't need to pull the plenum.

Only had the car since last Feb, never changed hoses. Have an OEM set waiting in the parts bin. Figured I'd be doing this down the line. Have to look up a dorman hose pull, don't have that

Kb7tif · 12-13-2009

The clunking is too fast to be Crank/lifters/cam. Hopefully water pump!

GOLDCYLON · 12-13-2009

The Dorman puller makes life a little easier when pulling the OEM clamps. AutoZone or Checker/Oreilly have them. It looks like a pair of pilers with tines on the end that compress the tabs. Normally a breaker bar fits in the square slot of the idler pulley so the belt removal is a breeze. If you havent looked in the FSM there are a crap load of bolts. They are about four or five varying sizes. A good method is to place them in the same holes as your replacement pump on the garage floor and then when you have the old pump out and on the floor to replace the bolts back into the old pump as a guide.

as stated no the plenum does not need to come off just the Air cleaner and air horn need to be pulled from the front of the plenum

Aurora40 · 12-13-2009

I have a hose clamp tool you are welcome to borrow. It's the remote kind which helps a lot for some of those clamps.

I also have a NAPA rebuild water pump. I think it was around $150. You are welcome to it for what I paid. I'm not sure why I even bought it. I'm not a fan of the stockpiling of parts.

Scrrem · 12-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ccmano

Pull the accessory belt off and run the engine briefly. That will instantly eliminate anything, including the water pump, run off the belt. You will then know if it's internal or external to the engine.
H

Yep, just popped the accessory belt off....quiet as a church....thanks

Looks like I'm doing a water pump replacement. Merry F'n Christmas Oh well I guess it could have been worse. At least this is something I can do myself

Rich

Kb7tif · 12-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scrrem

Yep, just popped the accessory belt off....quiet as a church....thanks

Looks like I'm doing a water pump replacement. Merry F'n Christmas Oh well I guess it could have been worse. At least this is something I can do myself

Rich

Dam water pumps.

Scrrem · 12-13-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aurora40

I have a hose clamp tool you are welcome to borrow. It's the remote kind which helps a lot for some of those clamps.

I also have a NAPA rebuild water pump. I think it was around $150. You are welcome to it for what I paid. I'm not sure why I even bought it. I'm not a fan of the stockpiling of parts.

Bob,
Your the MAN. Yes, if I could borrow your hose clamp tool, that would be great

If your willing to part with your water pump that would be great as well. This must be an omem, I was watching one on Ebay last week and got distracted and missed getting a bid in. If I had won it , this would not have happened

I'll shoot you a PM, maybe I can get over your way next week sometime.
Rich

12-13-2009	#12
HAWAIIZR-1 Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Help! Engine Noise Rich, Like Ccmano said, try to run it for a short time without the drive belt. My waterpump did sound like that when mine went bad even though my first sign was coolant seepage.

12-13-2009	#13
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,120	Re: Help! Engine Noise Sure sounds like the water pump the idler pully is not jumping around wildly either. Easy to replace all you need to do is remove the air horn to get to it. That and a crap load of bolts Whens the last time you changed the hoses? You will need to invest in a dorman hose puller to get those pesty OEM clamps of __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 12-13-2009 at 01:40 PM.

12-13-2009	#15
Kb7tif Join Date: May 2009 Location: S Nevada Posts: 351	Re: Help! Engine Noise The clunking is too fast to be Crank/lifters/cam. Hopefully water pump!

12-13-2009	#16
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,120	Re: Help! Engine Noise The Dorman puller makes life a little easier when pulling the OEM clamps. AutoZone or Checker/Oreilly have them. It looks like a pair of pilers with tines on the end that compress the tabs. Normally a breaker bar fits in the square slot of the idler pulley so the belt removal is a breeze. If you havent looked in the FSM there are a crap load of bolts. They are about four or five varying sizes. A good method is to place them in the same holes as your replacement pump on the garage floor and then when you have the old pump out and on the floor to replace the bolts back into the old pump as a guide. as stated no the plenum does not need to come off just the Air cleaner and air horn need to be pulled from the front of the plenum __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 12-13-2009 at 01:54 PM.

12-13-2009	#17
Aurora40 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Leesburg, VA Posts: 2,704	Re: Help! Engine Noise I have a hose clamp tool you are welcome to borrow. It's the remote kind which helps a lot for some of those clamps. I also have a NAPA rebuild water pump. I think it was around $150. You are welcome to it for what I paid. I'm not sure why I even bought it. I'm not a fan of the stockpiling of parts.