LED Lights for your Clamshell Underhood

[LancePearson]

Scot:
"Gezz I almost feel responsible since my "unpublished" TechNet article mentions that they are glass and they are "keyed". (only go in one way). I sat on the article because the final design of the one I'm working on was not complete.
It's still not published but a direct link from here should work to see it.
The pics are of an unsealed unit. (no pic of sealed unit yet)
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Inform...placement.aspx
Had I published earlier who knows, your cost of 2x $15 + the cost of the new glass cover would have been less sorry.
I did add a list of bulb options to that article just now."

You didn't make big. clumsy fingers drop the lens. I did! This is not exactly the first lens over a bulb in my life I've ever changed either. You ought to try some of the ones on big sailboats where when dropped stuff goes "bounce, bounce, splash" and is gone forever.

The bayonet receivers in my two housings are very tightly together and very forgiving of any length. When you push them in they are in very tightly in my car's case. Since my fuse was out by the previous owner to keep the incand. bulbs off I really wonder if those lights have ever been on much. I kept the bulbs in with the fuses in the glovebox but I'm not really sure why as the new led's work well and have a whiter light at 5,000 Kelvins instead of the more yellowish red of the incandescent.

I'm sure your article will be terrific. In my case it's $15 for the pair of lights not $15 each and for that it wasn't much of a risk experimenting and for me it's been a successful experiment. new lens on the way as we speak.

It seemed to me that there was some type of gasket it sits in to keep moisture out as well but I'm operating on memory as they were only open for ten minutes max while I changed bulbs. Both screws also have a type of gasket around them as washers as well so there is some moisture provision.

I rarely drive either of my Vettes in the rain either.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Lance,

Thanks for taking time to post options for LED in our cars. I too have replaced my underhood bulbs with cooler, brighter, lower draw LEDs and was pleased until now. In most cases as you stated, it is enough and having a direct light source in an emergency will be what you need. I even ordered an LED headlamp to keep in the car. What you posted is definitely the best bang for the buck.

Scott,

Despite all of the options, please count me in your option as I have seen over the years your technical expertise and trust what you are doing. For me, you can never have too much light. I even remember when at a Gathering a few years ago and there were issues on Rich's and Tom's car and a lot of folks were in the parking lot at night trying to get under the hotel's light to work on the cars. It is just me, but I love light even though with 28 years of service in the Army, I have become accustomed to doing things under darkness and low light. I don't know if I will ever need or even use the light, but I know they are there when I need them. From a cool factor I go to a lot of night events and would love to be able to show off the LT5 I worked so hard on for show purposes without worrying about draining the battery after hours. I know that you are not in this for profit and just taking time to offer up something to the brotherhood and it is greatly appreciated. Everyone has to make something for the efforts and research put into this; I can see a lot of thought was put forth. Thank you again.

Craig

[LancePearson]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Lance are the inner screws the pair that secure the glass lens? I assume the outer screws retain the housings? GC

I just checked and, Yes, the inner screws on the glass lens are the only ones you need to unscrew to free the lens for access to the bulb area. I suppose the outer ones do hold the fixture in place but I don't know for sure as I'm not taking anything that works apart!

In College once, back in the Dark Ages, my All American Swimmer room mate and I "borrowed" one of the football field's light bulbs which must have been 1500 watts or something and hung it out the dorm window wired up and then plugged it in. You could have read Lady Chatterley in the courtyard until we unplugged it and ran like heck. Obviously, a borrowed dorm room as well!

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

...snip...
From a cool factor I go to a lot of night events and would love to be able to show off the LT5 I worked so hard on for show purposes without worrying about draining the battery after hours.
...snip...

Craig

Exactly. The glass cover has a design which helps focus the light on to the engine. That together with a 15 deg LED set means more of the light is going where you want. Most fastoon type replacements spread have to spread the light out to 120deg because they are used in other applications. The cool factor is in the beam and quantity of light. The wow factor is being able to see all the dirt on the engine.

Originally Posted by LancePearson

I just checked and, Yes, the inner screws on the glass lens are the only ones you need to unscrew to free the lens for access to the bulb area. I suppose the outer ones do hold the fixture in place but I don't know for sure as I'm not taking anything that works apart!
... snip...

FYI There is no need to take the lower screw out. Just loosen it and take out the top one. The glass will then slide up and out. I use duct tape on the glass to hold it as I take out the upper screw. That is the duct tape is stuck to the glass such that you can hold the duct tape between your fingers to keep the glass secure as you remove it. Remember it's not very obvious but the glass is "keyed". It only goes in one way.

[LancePearson]

This made me laugh. We are all doing a collective phd on underhood lights on our ZR-1's! The truth is though that with the keyed and the rest it all keeps telling me the same thing...whoever thought C4's weren't much doesn't have a clue!

I took mine on my 90 mile nickel and dime ride today and you just have to come home smiling after a sunny day ride like that.

The duct tape is a good idea...will do that with the new lens when it arrives in a few days.

[LancePearson]

New lens arrived today and it took just a few minutes to put it in. Does not matter on mine which way you turn it as it is the same. The lights are very bright and appear to be very effective as led's. This time I did put a section of boat floor carpet over the engine under it and removed the top screw and just loosened the bottom one as Scott suggested and that worked fine. I removed the other one and washed the glass lens more thoroughly as well and that is probably well worth doing as there was dust on the ones in place.

all done with that project.

[scottfab]

I have deleted this post.
It did NOT come off as I meant it.
It's pure science to me, not personal.
My apologies to all.

[LancePearson]

The facts seem to be that the two sets of leds for $15 reduced current draw from 2.0 amps to .33 amps which is significant and seem to me to be brighter than the original incandescent bayonnet bulbs in my 1991 with clean lenses. Tonight I turned all the lights off and opened the clamshell hood and took a cell phone photo of the engine and the lights with no flash, just a photo. You can get a fair idea from the attached photo of what they do. You will not be able to do surgery but you will be able to see about as well or better than the old ones while reducing energy draw and the heat associated with it. It's just a choice and for $15, it seems like an easy choice that meets my needs. In LEDS there are tons of emerging choices and one member on another thread who will make a really bright set for you if you want to do that.

It's your choice. I'm all done and quite happy with the result that meets my needs just fine and only cost me $15 for the pair of lights.

[LancePearson]

I left it on for a while and now wonder just exactly how much heat each original incandescent 1.0 amp bulb would generate on the glass lens and behind it. These chipped dot leds are .165 amp so dramatically less but if you leave them on that's enough heat to make the lenses very warm to the touch.

I think for me the solution to any time I have the hood up for a few hours regardless of battery is to turn those lamps off. I may switch the fuse with a manual switch but for now I'll just pull the 10 amp spade fuse when it's going to be up all day or for days.

Electricity generates heat with any current draw as far as I can tell and I was a little surprised at how much. I also am very pleased with the amount of light from these. They will never replace shop or garage lights but they aren't bad....better than original and with whiter rather than yellower or reddish light.

[secondchance]

Thanks Lance, replaced mine w/ $15 LEDs.Actially mine had the fuse removed by the previous owner and I had been procracinating for the last 13 years.
Even with your heads-up, almost dropped one lense. With out your heads-up I am sure I would be searching for a lense on the Eb*y.
Thank you.