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#11 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
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I can't find that technical document I posted but its around somewhere.
The jist of the article was that Mobil 1 High Mileage was fine for the LT-5 engine. There are disadvantages to adding zinc if not done properly. I'm sure Valvoline and the others are good if you can find the 10W-30. I go with what has worked for me. I have had several engines well over 100,000 that ran like a raped ape and they were clean as a whistle. Mobil 1 works for me. I buy it often for $19.99 to $25.00 for 5 quarts. I buy a ton of it for the 3 Corvettes and Mobil 1 has a rewards program. I change my oil seasonal regardless of mileage. Many times I change it prematurely at 3,000 miles. If I get busy, then higher mileage. On my Z - its really spoiled. Often times, it only has a few hundred miles on the oil. It gets seasonal changes, especially after the winter storage if I'm in a cold state. My oil cooler oil stays in good shape as a result. It is way overkill but my oil changes are dirt cheap since I always get the oil on sale and do it myself. If memory serves me right, regular mobil 1 is good for 6 months and extended mobil is good for 1 year. (as long as within mileage limitations) I also do my coolant now at 1 year intervals. Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 03-01-2011 at 06:17 PM. |
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#12 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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![]() ![]() http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/in...=article&id=83 This is the start of that link you posted Jim. I just had to read it from the beginning. I don't remember which chapter you specifically linked, but I read that and then realized that there was more. The only reservation that I have is that Bob sounds like he knows what he is talking about, and his flow vs viscosity vs psi stuff is a valid technical point....somehow I just can't bring myself to use a 5w- 30 or a 0w- 30 oil .... but like he says at the beginning chapter, forget what you think you know about motor oils. I find that after reading all of it that yes I held the common misconceptions because I grew up with natural base stock oils. Synthetics do not behave at all like natural base stock oils. ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,063
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Just noticed this thread. Here is a link to Marc Haibeck's oil evaluation and recommendation:
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...5%20Engine.pdf
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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I use Penzoil Ultra Synthetic.
It's cleaning agents stopped the lifter ticking I had. http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pe...synthetic-oil/
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#15 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: In my house
Posts: 103
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Try Joe Gibbs they currently have the very best racing oil produced in USA today. I switched from RedLine 3 years ago and never looked back. I run 0-5 or 0-20 in Wash DC area in spring thru fall.
I run it in my 1200 HP street cars and use it in the Alky 2500HP to Nitro 5000HP big motors |
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