05-06-2016 | #11 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,698
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Re: Spliced wire. What to do?
That would be my first alternative. Don't trust splices on an ECM harness. But definitely make sure u have the slack for removing and twisting the harness when taking the chip out.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
05-06-2016 | #12 |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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Re: Spliced wire. What to do?
A splice done properly is as effective as the original crimp to pin (maybe more so dependent upon the device used to do the re-pin crimp/seal). I mentioned making sure all the "strands" are utilized, that's sufficient and certainly less manipulation of the connector and harness.
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05-07-2016 | #13 | |
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,275
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Re: Spliced wire. What to do?
Quote:
I found this tidbit from my GM files XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXX Splicing Two Wires The crimp-and-seal splice sleeve is recommended for splicing two wires together. It has several advantages, including: • It is easy to use. Only one part is needed to complete the splice and it does not require soldering. • When heated, the glue-lined sleeve bonds to the wire insulation, creating an excellent environmental seal. This makes it perfect for use both inside and outside the vehicle. • The bond between the splice and the wire, added to the wire crimp, creates a very strong splice. The table in Figure 27(Ive copied it below) lists available crimp-and-seal splice sleeves. As previously noted, these parts include a glue-lined tube that, when heated, shrinks over the wires to seal them off from the environment. To assure reliable splicing, always select the splice sleeve properly sized and designed for the wire gauge in use. The butt-splice sleeve can be used for applications that do not require sealing, such as those inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle. It does not, however, create as strong a splice as that of the crimp-and-seal splice. Do not use unsealed buttsplice sleeves for splices that will be located outside the passenger compartment of the vehicle. GM Recommended splicing procedure: 1. Strip about 3/8" of the insulation from the ends of the two wires to be spliced (Figure 25). 2. Insert stripped wires into the splice sleeve until they reach the wire stop located at the center of the sleeve (Figure 26). 3. Crimp the splice sleeve on each end. Each wire must be crimped individually. For proper placement, see Figure 28. (Note: Use the appropriate crimp tool designed specifically to use with both crimp-and-seal and butt-splice sleeves.) 4. For crimp-and-seal splice sleeves: Using a hot air gun, apply heat to the splice sleeve. As the sleeve shrinks, the glue inside will begin to melt. When the sleeve stops shrinking and glue appears at the ends of the sleeve (Figure 29), remove heat. Allow to cool. Here are the GM part numbers for the GM approved CRIMP-AND-SEAL SPLICE SLEEVE splicing devices PART NUMBER (SLEEVE COLOR) WIRE SIZE English(gauge) Metric 12089189 (Salmon) 18-20 0.80-0.50 12089190 (Blue) 14-16 2.00-1.00 12089191 (Yellow) 10-12 5.00-3.00 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX There is also another GM document dealing with splices using a splice clip. This is where you would involve soldering, as well as sealing and crimping. Let me know if anyone is interested.
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peace Paul ZR-1 Net Registry Member #1494 |
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05-07-2016 | #14 |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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Re: Spliced wire. What to do?
The GM procedure is quite well documented in the "Repair Procedures" section of every FSM. 8A and likely 5 - 9 pages. We always used splice clips and near NEVER the splice sleeves that are mentioned. Leaving no loose strands and the proper crimping device for the terminal type is most important. Talented people can use a very generic crimping tool but seldom are others successful. When we saw what looked to be a repair of something "other than" correct devices the splice or terminal termination generally failed the "tug test".
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