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#11 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 91
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OK I can confirm that the odometer is showing correctly. When I tried to check the setting using the A to B jumper I saw nothing on the digital speedometer or on the Infocenter. Here is a video of info center the entire time: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zped6lorpj...tting.mp4?dl=0
Oddly when I set jumper back to A & G and tried recording that it started to run and then the entire car just went black as you see here : https://www.dropbox.com/s/c0cgg5uewz...blank.mp4?dl=0 Im wondering if the battery is part of the problem when i plugged in my tender it wont even power on. |
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#12 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,154
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When you jumped A & B turn the key to on engine not running and observe the SES light
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 91
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thats what I did, saw nothing like what I saw on video from you tube
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 91
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So I checked the battery and it is showing 12.04 volts and checked every fuse in both locations ( by passenger door & under dash by passenger's feet) and all tested fine but yet still no power in the car at all. Any suggestions. This is what happened when doing the testing with paper clip from A to G and A to B
Battery Reading: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7roqqnqs5b...35.25.jpg?dl=0 Fuses side pannel: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgwelij1g2...00.31.jpg?dl=0 Fuses under passenger Dash: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ey08n5qqwz...00.22.jpg?dl=0 **NOTE** Images are also attached to the post Any suggestions on what to check now? |
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
Posts: 8,142
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I don’t know ; a good battery should be 13-14 volts
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#16 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,154
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Have you checked the MEMCAL in the ECM to be sure it is seated properly
__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#17 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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I suggested a cold boot of the ECM after 20-30 seconds. Your suggestion is even better. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Lou[COLOR="Red"][B][SIZE="4"][/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] |
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#18 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 91
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Ok I did some checking of the battery cables and when I started to touch the Positive battery cable I heard the power atena motor and then the lights all came back on. So I think its time to replace that cable.
Replacement has been ordered Battery Cable Part Number: 2SD40XH Product Notes: Battery Cable All; Battery To Switch; VIN: J* Per Vehicle: 1; Years: 1990-1992 Origininal ACDELO part Last edited by ZuggZR1; 01-22-2020 at 06:18 PM. |
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#19 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,852
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I’m confused! What happened here? First there were codes, a SYS light and it wasn’t running correctly. Now it’s dead with no electrical power to anything? BTW 12.0 volts is too low. A good battery should show 12.6 volts in static condition. These cars do funny things when the voltage is even slightly low. Once the car is running it should be in the 13.5 volt area or higher if the alternator is charging.
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90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold. |
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#20 | |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Mullica Hill, New Jersey
Posts: 2,574
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However, those two sentences above are absolute gospel truth. Fully 75% of the cars I get in here trace back to the simplest of things. 1- A failing battery, or one that fully lost it's charge and now exhibits a dead cell when properly tested, regardless of how "new" it is. 2- The very next step after load testing the battery is an examination of the battery cable bolts and the contact surface of the cable. 3- "The meaning of TIGHT" Loose battery bolts have got to rank right up there. After 1 and 2, simply try to twist the cable after you tighten it. If it moves, go a bit tighter until you are certain that the clean surface and the new bolt are making full contact with the clean battery terminal. 4- Check the alternator connections for cleanliness and tightness. 5- Check the power distribution connections coming from the battery and confirm you are getting proper voltage from the battery into the electrical system. 6- With Key on run (for no more than 5-10 minutes, back-probe each and every fuse on all fuse blocks. If you find a blown or weak one remove it until all others have been checked. A short on one feed can do funny things to others, as the CCM tries to understand what it is seeing. 7- NEVER use jumper cables, or if you must, make damn sure you SEE the plus and minus on both batteries BEFORE making the positive connection. Make the negative to a ground not the negative terminal on your ZR-1. I see so many people with a running jumper car as they hook it up. When the jumpers car alternator senses the "new" load as it is coming on line, you can get a surge that can easily damage an ECM or CCM long before any fusible link, circuit breaker or fuse can react. I always insist my techs use nothing but a quality portable battery box, and make sure they connect without shorting onto any adjacent metal area, ESPECIALLY those damn top terminals on fits-all batteries. All such simple things that we most all of learned in our teens, but again these computerized cars behave strangely with insufficient, or momentary jolts of near any kind. Buy a quality battery from a dealer who can load test, and stand behind the warranty if something is not right. I am a devout Delco fan, or an Autolite for Ford or Mopar for a Chrysler guy. My Delco distributor never questions a return form us. I go with the gold or platinum battery that has a minimum of a 42 month free non pro rated return. If one comes back dead, I INSIST on a Battery Tender or better, with a permanent connection. If they decline, I nicely tell them to not bring a dead one back to me then, or just get it somewhere else. That put an end to the new battery every year crowd. Simple things, but time and time again they are the causes for trouble, and occasionally some very expensive trouble. Some other day we should focus on rodent induced electrical damage........................................ ![]() Marty |
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