Closed Loop/AC ON?

[VetteMed]

correct. at idle they will not be operating, so the only way they'd affect idle would be if leaking.

[gbrtng]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

If you had the AC on when the key was turned off, it will still be on when you restart. Normal behavior.

It's not normal for the system to turn itself on, if it was off when the key was turned off.

However, the AC defaults to AUTO when you reconnect the battery.

[Funracer]

However, the AC defaults to AUTO when you reconnect the battery

Thanks. Good to know.

at idle they will not be operating, so the only way they'd affect idle would be if leaking

In an earlier thread I had a fuel pressure problem that was ultimately resolved. During that process I did the fuel pump amperage draw test
described here:

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....hlight=amperes

My pump/pumps only drew about 5.5 amps should have been over 8.
Either one is not working or is very weak. Both pumps are new and I
have had this issue since before changing them. But I am thinking this
area needs further investigation. Maybe a wire or relay problem.

I will get to it next week and update if I find anything interesting.

Thanks

[Funracer]

My pump/pumps only drew about 5.5 amps should have been over 8.
Either one is not working or is very weak. Both pumps are new and I
have had this issue since before changing them. But I am thinking this
area needs further investigation. Maybe a wire or relay problem.

Rechecked the pumps draw last Sunday. As I guessed, now that the disconnected fuel line has been reattached the pump amperage draw
is back to normal. It now shows 9.47 versus the 5.5 mentioned earlier.

So I am back to square one. The car still starts and runs fine as long as I leave the AC off. As soon as I push the AC button the car will not idle and will not run unless I blip the throttle.

Other possibility is that the compressor may be failing and is difficult to turn? With the engine off, you can try to turn it by hand. Not the part the belt rides on, as that will freewheel, but the part that is just behind the belt contact surface. That's directly connected to the compressor shaft. It should turn fairly easily by hand. If it's not moveable by hand, perhaps it's on the verge of seizing up

I did check the compressor as VetteMed suggested. It did turn firmly
but smoothly (no binding) by hand.

The only thing I know for certain that is wrong with the car from
a mechanical perspective is that the secondary injectors are shot.
I have been reluctant to spend the time and money to replace them
because I felt certain they could not affect low rpm driveability.
But I don't know what else to check. Unless someone comes
up with something else to look at I guess I will be putting new
Accels in the secondaries next.

Regards

[VetteMed]

If your power key is still functional,leaving it "off" takes the secondary injectors offline, and therefore rules them out as a source of a driveability issue.

[4-cam]

My 91 had the same issue, Idled poorly with the a/c on. When the a/c clutch engaged it changed the idle 200-300 rpm. Stock injectors ohm 'ed out good and passed the leak down test. I changed them anyway. Now it idles great, no fluctuation in idle speed. I bet yours are leaking. Does it smell rich at Idle?

[Funracer]

If your power key is still functional,leaving it "off" takes the secondary injectors offline, and therefore rules them out as a source of a driveability issue

.

I would expect that as well. The power key has no effect on the problem whether on or off. I also cannot see where turning the
AC on/off would effect driveability, and yet it does.

My 91 had the same issue, Idled poorly with the a/c on. When the a/c clutch engaged it changed the idle 200-300 rpm. Stock injectors ohm 'ed out good and passed the leak down test. I changed them anyway. Now it idles great, no fluctuation in idle speed. I bet yours are leaking. Does it smell rich at Idle?

It does not smell rich ever. I need to be clear about this tho. Turning the
AC on does not just affect the idle a little bit. It ruins the idle. The car will not idle. It begins to run very rough and will shut down in less than 10 seconds unless I keep blipping the throttle or shut off the AC.

I know the secondaries are no good so I will change them out just to
eliminate any doubt that they are having an effect.

Anyone know the Accel secondary injector part numbers?

Thanks

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by Funracer

.

Anyone know the Accel secondary injector part numbers?

Thanks

Same as the primary part number. 150821. You have to grind off the tab on the connector in order to use the Accels. Not sure if that's on the primary or secondary side though.

[Pete]

Check/clean/replace your IAC.

Pete

[Funracer]

Same as the primary part number. 150821

Like these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_os_product

Good price I think.

Will report back after install. Next week I hope.

Regards