I think I?m in deep 💩 - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Starman · 2 Weeks Ago

Try pulling the CTSY fuse, top left to reset VATS.

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XfireZ51 · 2 Weeks Ago

Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display?

-=Jeff=- · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display?

not for that you need the reverse polarized kit from Batee, then you need a white backing to swap from the orange

EDIT..

you would need this:
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...rt-kit-for-lcd

and like this but not orange
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...42570426843291

HAWAIIZR-1 · 2 Weeks Ago

Wow Jeff! You are da man and good to know this. What can?t you do? Awesome.

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XfireZ51 · 1 Week Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

not for that you need the reverse polarized kit from Batee, then you need a white backing to swap from the orange

EDIT..

you would need this:
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...rt-kit-for-lcd

and like this but not orange
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...42570426843291

Seems like they?re out of stock on the LCD filter. Let?s chat pizza night.

rush91 · 1 Week Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by JT_n_CT_90_ZR1

UPDATE: JEFF reprogrammed a ECM I ordered online and sent both to him. The one he programmed works fantastic! Everything is communicating ETC. Recommend his services.

On that note, we are running down the list here. Still no crank, I am ordering an ignition switch as we speak and new battery cables just in case. Any other Ideas? And yes it?s a Brand new oversized 1000 CCA battery. vatts? Advice?

Is the car cranking or do you turn the key and nothing? If it's cranking but won't start it could be your fuel pumps......

When you turn the ignition on BUT don't start the car, you should hear the pumps in the tank priming.

JT_n_CT_90_ZR1 · 1 Week Ago

I was thinking that also. However I did just replace the BCM and for what I?ve been reading I have to get the ECM and BCM to communicate which unfortunately are not. I am getting ERR when jump 1&2. So in a nutshell, I think I have a short with the communication wires. I have a feeling I?m going to have to take the whole dash off to find this short or at the very least why it?s not communicating.
Jeff did a fantastic job reprogramming my BCM and my ECM is brand new with my original EPROM.
As we speak I have the ABS module and that section in the back apart seeing if there is anything wrong with the wiring or modules.
There is something electrically wrong because my old BCM had chips completely burnt up. Several of them.
I have a 1966 427 I have that needs some love too so I am just trying to get the 90 Z in at least drivable condition just in case I need to bring her somewhere for another set of eyes to checkout. Unfortunately I am just a normal guy with a normal paycheck so whatever I can do myself is key.

RSLyrick · 1 Week Ago

Hey,

what makes you think that the ECM and CCM password exchange routine fails ?

If the FEDS is failing (Fuel Enable System), so this password exchange between the modules, you should get a DTC 54. Security lamp and SYS will also flash. Is this the case ? DTC 41 may be set as well .

If this safe communication fails, the fuel pumps are normally still getting primed but you will get no fuel injection so no start. Do you hear them running after ignition ?

Refer to 8D-62 for more details (about DTC 54) and 8D-54 (about DTC 41)

Do all the DIC classic bulbs light up after ignition before cranking ? (especially the SES light)

If you want to check the communication wires (UART), no need to dismantle the whole dash at the moment.

- Battery connected : check with a multimeter if you get 5V in the DLC (diagnostic) port at pin M, with ignition ON.

To check the second UART wire, same procedure, it could be probed at the back of the ECM (D15 and D20), same expected voltage value around 5V with key in ignition position.

That should help you check if you have a short to GND or 12V or something else.

For an open wire issue, it would be better to disconnect the battery, the ECM harness and CCM harness as well and do a continuity test with your multimeter between the ECM harness and CCM harness connectors.

You have to do this because two other modules (ABS, C68) are connected on this bus and they have all have (possibly) the capability to pull it to 5V, so you need to isolate the connection to these modules.

JT_n_CT_90_ZR1 · 1 Week Ago

Brother that is some fantastic advice. And Yes, I have every single warning light Except the Check engine.

Next, when I turn the key to on, I have the vacuum pump intermittently buzzing and the fans go on I can?t hear the pumps but before this happened I had no problem with them so I don?t think they are an issue but they are cheap so I should just order a couple for the shelf. I did just order an ignition switch, waiting on that also. Security and system lights flash and the security light eventually goes off like normal which I was told is good because the Vats accepted the key. I do see a flashing SRS light that seems to be flashing a code I just don?t know how to read it accurately. For example- I count the flashes but how do I know when it?s finished with a specific code?

Lastly, I know you are all going to scream at me for this, but I don?t have a 1990 Service book set yet. I just keep putting it off and try to look up everything online.

I do have the factory LT5 service book. I also have a file with the full factory 1994 C4 dual book jailbroke so it?s transferable. I found it randomly online and scanned it for virus? and it?s safe (if anyone needs please shoot me over your email) and I have a digital 1990 C4 usb-drive also that is more for parts then troubleshooting.

I?ll get the voltage numbers over tomorrow. I have a feeling they are all working correctly as from what you described should be working is. If in fact, it is the FEDS what is the procedure on fixing or replacing that? I have poor pressure in the rails and it just drips out when in check the valve on the end of the passenger side fuel rail.

We are going back to Spring but the last time I drove the car the secondaries were not activating and the Check Engine light was sending me O2 sensor codes. (Both were replaced) and then my BCM started going bananas and the poltergeist started making random things happen which are now perfect with the new BCM Jeff reprogrammed.

RSLyrick · 6 Days Ago

The SES / Check Engine bulb should light up briefly when you turn your key to ignition position. This is a good indication that the ECM is live and capable of controlling this bulb. Please double check (it is really fast).

If the Security light goes off, it means that the system recognized your key and FEDS was sucessfull as well (otherwise you would see SYS and SECURITY flashing together).

The secondaries vacuum pump buzzing is normal. The radiator fans have no reasons to start if the engine is cold. Are you maybe talking about the AC / blower running ? Try turning it off immediately after turning the key to get the environnement as quiet as possible.

To do the test in a quiet environnement. If your secondaries vacuum pump has a leak, it may run almost continuously, making too much noise for you to focus on the sound of the fuel pumps.

If the fuel pumps are running, that's another indication that your ECM is alive.

To get some diagnotic code out, short pin A and B from the DLC connector.

The CCM will display Err when attempting to display ECM DTCs for the LT5 engine.

You will readout codes by counting the amount of time the SES light is flashing.

Once you have grounded the diagnostic pin (A to B), turn the key to ignition.

Look at the SES light. It will start with a code 12 indicating that the diagnostic system works properly:

- 1 flash / waiting time / 2 flashes

This will happen 3 times.

Then stored codes will also be shown to you in the very same way (exemple DTC 32)

- 3 flashes / waiting time / 2 flashes

This will happen 3 times for a specific code, longue pause before repetition, then moving to the next stored code if any

For the diagnostic code of the CCM, litterally from the book.

To display CCM DTCs, select the Display DTCs mode by pressing the TRIP/ODO button until 1.1 appears in the trip monitor area of the cluster. Then, press the ENG/MET button to display the first DTC. Continue pressing the ENG/MET button to display
additional CCM DTCs, until the End-Of-Information indicator (---) is displayed in the speedometer. A C12 indicates no stored DTCs for the CCM. If it is necessary to go backward in the list, use the "FUEL INFO? button. The top of the DTC list will be
indicated by the --- display in the speedometer.

Yes, I will personnaly scream, get the books ! Second best investement in your life after the ZR-1 ! Lots of details and explanation about how your car actually works and how to investigate issues. I got the printed ones from Rockauto (DETROIT IRON editions), very good. And the digital version from another website, because it's much easier to look for info with the quick search function of a PDF reader. I sometimes read litterally like a standard book cause there so many interesting infos in it. Not like today's car repair book...

And check this fuel rail leakage at valve...not a good idea to attempt to start the car if you clearly see that there is a problem there. It will either run poorly, stall and it will completly hide the electrical issues that you may have

Also, Is the engine cranking ? Is the starter doing its job ? If you have a faulty starter, you may just hear a "click click" noise with no crank at all, or simply...nothing at all.

2 Weeks Ago	#11
Starman Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Speedway, IN Posts: 133	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 Try pulling the CTSY fuse, top left to reset VATS. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

2 Weeks Ago	#12
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,707	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX

2 Weeks Ago	#14
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,581	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 Wow Jeff! You are da man and good to know this. What can?t you do? Awesome. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

1 Week Ago	#17
JT_n_CT_90_ZR1 Join Date: Aug 2024 Location: Connecticut Posts: 15	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 I was thinking that also. However I did just replace the BCM and for what I?ve been reading I have to get the ECM and BCM to communicate which unfortunately are not. I am getting ERR when jump 1&2. So in a nutshell, I think I have a short with the communication wires. I have a feeling I?m going to have to take the whole dash off to find this short or at the very least why it?s not communicating. Jeff did a fantastic job reprogramming my BCM and my ECM is brand new with my original EPROM. As we speak I have the ABS module and that section in the back apart seeing if there is anything wrong with the wiring or modules. There is something electrically wrong because my old BCM had chips completely burnt up. Several of them. I have a 1966 427 I have that needs some love too so I am just trying to get the 90 Z in at least drivable condition just in case I need to bring her somewhere for another set of eyes to checkout. Unfortunately I am just a normal guy with a normal paycheck so whatever I can do myself is key.

1 Week Ago	#18
RSLyrick Join Date: Oct 2023 Location: Germany Posts: 14	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 Hey, what makes you think that the ECM and CCM password exchange routine fails ? If the FEDS is failing (Fuel Enable System), so this password exchange between the modules, you should get a DTC 54. Security lamp and SYS will also flash. Is this the case ? DTC 41 may be set as well . If this safe communication fails, the fuel pumps are normally still getting primed but you will get no fuel injection so no start. Do you hear them running after ignition ? Refer to 8D-62 for more details (about DTC 54) and 8D-54 (about DTC 41) Do all the DIC classic bulbs light up after ignition before cranking ? (especially the SES light) If you want to check the communication wires (UART), no need to dismantle the whole dash at the moment. - Battery connected : check with a multimeter if you get 5V in the DLC (diagnostic) port at pin M, with ignition ON. To check the second UART wire, same procedure, it could be probed at the back of the ECM (D15 and D20), same expected voltage value around 5V with key in ignition position. That should help you check if you have a short to GND or 12V or something else. For an open wire issue, it would be better to disconnect the battery, the ECM harness and CCM harness as well and do a continuity test with your multimeter between the ECM harness and CCM harness connectors. You have to do this because two other modules (ABS, C68) are connected on this bus and they have all have (possibly) the capability to pull it to 5V, so you need to isolate the connection to these modules. Last edited by RSLyrick; 1 Week Ago at 02:21 PM.

1 Week Ago	#19
JT_n_CT_90_ZR1 Join Date: Aug 2024 Location: Connecticut Posts: 15	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 Brother that is some fantastic advice. And Yes, I have every single warning light Except the Check engine. Next, when I turn the key to on, I have the vacuum pump intermittently buzzing and the fans go on I can?t hear the pumps but before this happened I had no problem with them so I don?t think they are an issue but they are cheap so I should just order a couple for the shelf. I did just order an ignition switch, waiting on that also. Security and system lights flash and the security light eventually goes off like normal which I was told is good because the Vats accepted the key. I do see a flashing SRS light that seems to be flashing a code I just don?t know how to read it accurately. For example- I count the flashes but how do I know when it?s finished with a specific code? Lastly, I know you are all going to scream at me for this, but I don?t have a 1990 Service book set yet. I just keep putting it off and try to look up everything online. I do have the factory LT5 service book. I also have a file with the full factory 1994 C4 dual book jailbroke so it?s transferable. I found it randomly online and scanned it for virus? and it?s safe (if anyone needs please shoot me over your email) and I have a digital 1990 C4 usb-drive also that is more for parts then troubleshooting. I?ll get the voltage numbers over tomorrow. I have a feeling they are all working correctly as from what you described should be working is. If in fact, it is the FEDS what is the procedure on fixing or replacing that? I have poor pressure in the rails and it just drips out when in check the valve on the end of the passenger side fuel rail. We are going back to Spring but the last time I drove the car the secondaries were not activating and the Check Engine light was sending me O2 sensor codes. (Both were replaced) and then my BCM started going bananas and the poltergeist started making random things happen which are now perfect with the new BCM Jeff reprogrammed.

6 Days Ago	#20
RSLyrick Join Date: Oct 2023 Location: Germany Posts: 14	Re: I think I?m in deep 💩 The SES / Check Engine bulb should light up briefly when you turn your key to ignition position. This is a good indication that the ECM is live and capable of controlling this bulb. Please double check (it is really fast). If the Security light goes off, it means that the system recognized your key and FEDS was sucessfull as well (otherwise you would see SYS and SECURITY flashing together). The secondaries vacuum pump buzzing is normal. The radiator fans have no reasons to start if the engine is cold. Are you maybe talking about the AC / blower running ? Try turning it off immediately after turning the key to get the environnement as quiet as possible. To do the test in a quiet environnement. If your secondaries vacuum pump has a leak, it may run almost continuously, making too much noise for you to focus on the sound of the fuel pumps. If the fuel pumps are running, that's another indication that your ECM is alive. To get some diagnotic code out, short pin A and B from the DLC connector. The CCM will display Err when attempting to display ECM DTCs for the LT5 engine. You will readout codes by counting the amount of time the SES light is flashing. Once you have grounded the diagnostic pin (A to B), turn the key to ignition. Look at the SES light. It will start with a code 12 indicating that the diagnostic system works properly: - 1 flash / waiting time / 2 flashes This will happen 3 times. Then stored codes will also be shown to you in the very same way (exemple DTC 32) - 3 flashes / waiting time / 2 flashes This will happen 3 times for a specific code, longue pause before repetition, then moving to the next stored code if any For the diagnostic code of the CCM, litterally from the book. To display CCM DTCs, select the Display DTCs mode by pressing the TRIP/ODO button until 1.1 appears in the trip monitor area of the cluster. Then, press the ENG/MET button to display the first DTC. Continue pressing the ENG/MET button to display additional CCM DTCs, until the End-Of-Information indicator (---) is displayed in the speedometer. A C12 indicates no stored DTCs for the CCM. If it is necessary to go backward in the list, use the "FUEL INFO? button. The top of the DTC list will be indicated by the --- display in the speedometer. Yes, I will personnaly scream, get the books ! Second best investement in your life after the ZR-1 ! Lots of details and explanation about how your car actually works and how to investigate issues. I got the printed ones from Rockauto (DETROIT IRON editions), very good. And the digital version from another website, because it's much easier to look for info with the quick search function of a PDF reader. I sometimes read litterally like a standard book cause there so many interesting infos in it. Not like today's car repair book... And check this fuel rail leakage at valve...not a good idea to attempt to start the car if you clearly see that there is a problem there. It will either run poorly, stall and it will completly hide the electrical issues that you may have Also, Is the engine cranking ? Is the starter doing its job ? If you have a faulty starter, you may just hear a "click click" noise with no crank at all, or simply...nothing at all.