Engine Cleaning

[Dylan@Adams]

Originally Posted by Rex Ruby

Dylan, you need to do some research so you know what's up with C4 Corvette engines. Any kind of washing on an LT5 or LT1 will be detrimental to engine componets. The LT5 had a problematic paint finish applied to it that requires special attention or you can end up making it worse looking than just some dirt.

and thus the reason I stated this in the quote:

Originally Posted by Dylan@Adams

I have heard the early 90-ish vettes don't like water too much

I've been professionally detailing for over 13 years now, but any LT1/LT5 vettes I have had the privilege of touching have either been pristine under the hood and required no work or were only dirty enough to require a little detail spray and microfiber to come clean, then controlled APC for any areas that needed degreasing.

As with any "sensitive paint" it will be susceptible to staining, discoloration, or worse if harsh chemicals are used for cleaning. This is the reason I suggested that even if the engine compartment were VERY dirty he use a highly diluted mixture of APC in a spray in order to control what got wet and what didn't. Trust me, I don't go around telling people with potentially problematic areas of their car to grab the hose and the harshest chemical they can find and apply with an SOS pad... if I had no clue what I was talking about I'd have been run out of business a loooooong time ago.

[xlr8nflorida]

I use Toothpaste and distilled water.

Cleans my LT-5 right up and it smells minty fresh

Then I hand dry it with towel and leaf blower to be safe.

[RedRiderZR1]

Originally Posted by Dylan@Adams

and thus the reason I stated this in the quote:



I've been professionally detailing for over 13 years now, but any LT1/LT5 vettes I have had the privilege of touching have either been pristine under the hood and required no work or were only dirty enough to require a little detail spray and microfiber to come clean, then controlled APC for any areas that needed degreasing.

As with any "sensitive paint" it will be susceptible to staining, discoloration, or worse if harsh chemicals are used for cleaning. This is the reason I suggested that even if the engine compartment were VERY dirty he use a highly diluted mixture of APC in a spray in order to control what got wet and what didn't. Trust me, I don't go around telling people with potentially problematic areas of their car to grab the hose and the harshest chemical they can find and apply with an SOS pad... if I had no clue what I was talking about I'd have been run out of business a loooooong time ago.

. Says your in SoCal. I have a dirty stained engine that you can try to clean. Good test for your products.

[Dylan@Adams]

Excellent results with the Swirl & Haze Remover QB93Z!!

I might also suggest our Revive polish in that area as its intended to remove light surface contamination and stains. Its a deep cleaning polish with no abrasives so its perfectly safe on surfaces like that. I use it all the time around the door handles on the wifes SUV, its great for getting rid of all the little imperfections there too.

[QB93Z]

Originally Posted by Dylan@Adams

Excellent results with the Swirl & Haze Remover QB93Z!!

I might also suggest our Revive polish in that area as its intended to remove light surface contamination and stains. Its a deep cleaning polish with no abrasives so its perfectly safe on surfaces like that. I use it all the time around the door handles on the wifes SUV, its great for getting rid of all the little imperfections there too.

Thanks for the info. I grabbed the Swiel & Haze Remover off my shelf and started. Are you saying that the Revive Polish would be a little more aggresive than the S&HR? I know that both are non-abrasive but I would like to use the one that will work the best on the engine surfaces.

Jim

[ZR1ROB]

mmm shiny good!

If you have to pull the plenum, you might as well enlarge the drain hole in the back of the starter valley. Thats the problem child. 3/8" drill is what I remember opening it out to. Not a problem since. Now I'm going out to get some gunk engine bright. mmm shiny

[Hammer]

Originally Posted by ZR1ROB

mmm shiny good!

If you have to pull the plenum, you might as well enlarge the drain hole in the back of the starter valley. Thats the problem child. 3/8" drill is what I remember opening it out to. Not a problem since. Now I'm going out to get some gunk engine bright. mmm shiny

Let me know what you think. I washed one car at the car wash. That one I hadn't cleaned the plenum hole out. Didn't have any problems.

The other one, Ive cleaned twice that way. The hole was cleaned and you can actually hear the water draining, a sucking sound kinda was heard.

If you can, take some before and after pics.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by ZR1ROB

mmm shiny good!

If you have to pull the plenum, you might as well enlarge the drain hole in the back of the starter valley. Thats the problem child. 3/8" drill is what I remember opening it out to. Not a problem since. Now I'm going out to get some gunk engine bright. mmm shiny

I have my engine top end parts, radiator, water pump, starter, front brakes, exhaust system laying on benches all around my 91 Z

Tell me a bit more about enlarging that drain hole...There is a steel tube (maybe 3/16) at right angle to the rear about 1/2 inch down in that hole. The hole is dead ended down further. The steel tube drains fluids to the rear from that hole and down in front of the fly wheel out just behind the oil pan. I do not want to dump oily fluid onto the flywheel from that hole so prefer using the steel tube. There is no way to enlarge that steel tube without getting inside the bell housing. I will study this further and try to invent a way to more effectively drain that area

[Hammer]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

There is no way to enlarge that steel tube without getting inside the bell housing. I will study this further and try to invent a way to more effectively drain that area

No inventing or studying needed. The ZR-1 Net Registry has you covered.
http://www.bcvettes.org/howto/zr-1/starter/print.html

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Hammer

No inventing or studying needed. The ZR-1 Net Registry has you covered.
http://www.bcvettes.org/howto/zr-1/starter/print.html

That will work but it dumps the debree into the bell housing in front of the fly wheel. When the hole was being drilled they could have just as well put in a larger tube since they had the fly wheel removed

That will work ......just drilling a larger hole and dumping into the flywheel area is prolly better than drowning out your starter when washing the engine