Thermostat

[Demps]

Just let us know. Steaks on the Dempseys.

Ted

[Livin' in the 80's]

Is it true that you have to take the entire T stat housing out of the car to replace the t stat? Can you separate the housing in place from under the car? My new Z Didn't warm up at all when cold and got worse as the car was driven. I am sure the t stat is the original-it only has 23,000 miles.

[Livin' in the 80's]

Also, I was reading about the 1/8 " hole. Shouldn't this also help burping out the air in the coolant system when refilling? It would let air and coolant by the thermostat.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Livin' in the 80's

Is it true that you have to take the entire T stat housing out of the car to replace the t stat? NO Can you separate the housing in place from under the car? YES My new Z Didn't warm up at all when cold and got worse as the car was driven. I am sure the t stat is the original-it only has 23,000 miles.

See Item #6 and Item #7 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

Originally Posted by Livin' in the 80's

Also, I was reading about the 1/8 " hole. Shouldn't this also help burping out the air in the coolant system when refilling? It would let air and coolant by the thermostat.

Possibly as that would allow cold coolant from the radiator to move into the engine and as such some air top side to move to top of radiator. That air top side of radiator moves to overflow reservoir in front of Passenger side window and then down to coolant reservoir under passenger headlight. The Coolant is then replaced as the engine cools and sucks back coolant from the coolant reservoir under passenger headlight.

A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

Filling with Coolant.

I fill with Coolant/Distilled Water. Then the BIG Secret......
A. I use a vice grips and close off the coolant to the Plastic Overflow under Passenger Headlight.
B. I fill Black Coolant Reservoir in front of passenger side window and when the bubbling stops.....Blow into/pressurize that Reservoir holding pressure for about 10 seconds. More bubbles will come from the top of the radiator hose. I refill with Distilled Water and Blow into/pressurize the Coolant System again. I repeat this maybe three times until no bubbles come back from the top of the Radiator. I then replace the Coolant Reservoir Cap and remove Vice Grips.....and fire up the LT5 keeping a hand on the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to assure they get warm within a minute. (That Happens with this method of Coolant Filling 100% of the time).

With this procedure you are pressurizing both sides of the radiator but with each pressurizing cycle more coolant is being pushed into the coolant system and more air is bubbling out from the top of the radiator.

See Item #7 Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

[Livin' in the 80's]

I need to order it and it doesn't seem I can source it locally easily. Looks like I should get the stant 14068 with the correct spring and drill 1 to 2 - 1/8" holes.

Any recommendations on where to get the thermostat? I read to only use distilled water and the green antifreeze.

Planning on changing all fluids as well.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Livin' in the 80's

I need to order it and it doesn't seem I can source it locally easily. Looks like I should get the stant 14068 with the correct spring and drill 1 to 2 - 1/8" holes.

Any recommendations on where to get the thermostat? I read to only use distilled water and the green antifreeze.

Planning on changing all fluids as well.

Stants from Jerry or Marc.

I never drill holes in the Stant 180 deg Thermostat as that offers very little (1.6%) increase in coolant flow.

LT5/ZR-1 Fluids

RADIATOR COOLANT
You want to only use the green coolant. They have it at Napa and it meets 1825M GM Spec.

For Zerex the first gallon is called Regular Green Coolant (GM 1825M), the second gallon is called Original Formula (GM 1825M). Zerex ZXRU1 is 50-50 and Zerex ZX001 is undiluted. The third gallon is NAPA coolant (GM 1825M).
OROR
NAPA

[-=Jeff=-]

I got my last T-Stat at Rock auto. I did the swap in the car, I had to unbolt the T-stat but I had room where I didn't have to completely remove it..

[Livin' in the 80's]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Stants from Jerry or Marc.

I never drill holes in the Stant 180 deg Thermostat as that offers very little (1.6%) increase in coolant flow.

LT5/ZR-1 Fluids

RADIATOR COOLANT
You want to only use the green coolant. They have it at Napa and it meets 1825M GM Spec.

For Zerex the first gallon is called Regular Green Coolant (GM 1825M), the second gallon is called Original Formula (GM 1825M). Zerex ZXRU1 is 50-50 and Zerex ZX001 is undiluted. The third gallon is NAPA coolant (GM 1825M).
OROR
NAPA

Any Idea on the Capacity of the cooling system?

[Dynomite]

Initial fill is 18 quarts but on refill depending on how much you drain two gallons or less should be close.


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[5ABI VT]

I don't know much about stats but it surprises me no one still makes them. Cant these be modifiied with different springs and such to open earlier? That was my plan I was going to post about this as well.. to find a 160- stat similar in dimensions or spring dimensions and just swap the spring out and weld it back together