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Old 04-19-2020   #11
MuRCieLaGo
 
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

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Originally Posted by Vette Guy View Post
That side doesn't look broken. It should ever so lightly twist into the connector receptacle down in the center of the steering column. It's been years since I fixed mine, so I'm providing my best recollection. I'm searching for a photo for where it should be connected....

Only found one for a C5, but the idea is the same.

I know the cable goes into the hole but something has to be preventing it from coming out... I really don't know.
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Old 04-19-2020   #12
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

You really need to pickup a copy of the GM FSM and the 8A electrical section booklet that contains all the cars electrical schematics. I had a situation with my 77 Trans Am tilt wheel. The guts are pretty much the same. The horn plugged in the same way. I took a picture of a couple pages out of the FSM. I need to get section 8-A myself.
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Old 04-19-2020   #13
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

Sorry about the two pics. I rotated them and they flipped back when I posted them. In figure 5 part 7 is the part that the horn spring goes into. This maintains contact as you turn the steering wheel through it's full motion. Section 8-A really gets into the possible wiring issues. The owner of my car had one but was moving and couldn't find it. He gave me a complete Service Manual set on CD but I can't get it to come up on my pc. Hope the views of the column help out. The basic function was the same on my 77 T/A. They haven't really changed that much from then to our 90-95 cars.
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Old 04-20-2020   #14
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

The connector has a ‘tab’ on the side, which should insert into the ‘key way’, once it bottoms out in the receptacle, gently twist it clockwise so the nub or tab goes into a retaining slot - similar to an automotive bulb.


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Old 04-20-2020   #15
MuRCieLaGo
 
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

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Originally Posted by Vette Guy View Post
The connector has a ‘tab’ on the side, which should insert into the ‘key way’, once it bottoms out in the receptacle, gently twist it clockwise so the nub or tab goes into a retaining slot - similar to an automotive bulb.


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Alright that's the information I was looking for!

I found the problem. The clip is broken. The broken piece was still laying there when I removed the steering wheel. I'm confident it could be glued, if only I knew how to remove it... Do you guys think it's safe to remove that retaining clip? The big sticker kind of scares me.


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Old 04-20-2020   #16
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Default Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

Can you use a set of tweezers and carefully gel superglue it in place?


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Old 04-20-2020   #17
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

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Can you use a set of tweezers and carefully gel superglue it in place?


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Haha, I thought about it! It's very tempting, but pretty risky too. There's not much room. I'm lucky enough to have the broken piece in hand...

EDIT: Alright, I manage to glue it in place. I'm going to put a second coat of glue tomorrow morning. Hopefully it'll be good!

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Old 04-21-2020   #18
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

Keep us posted!


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Old 04-22-2020   #19
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

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Keep us posted!


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Thanks for asking,

I used Permatex Plastic Welder. It worked for 1 day, then it failed again. I glued it again and I also glued the black plastic part to the (broken) retainer. Hopefully it'll work this time.
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Old 04-22-2020   #20
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Default Re: Car back from body shop - horn buttons don't work

So the plastic cam nub is broken off. It needs to make constant contact so push in an very small wedge a slither of wood or paper in the hole to retain it into position. It’s the ghetto method but it works, GC
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91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat

90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat

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