93 Starter Not Engaging

[RubyredEd]

Looks like your illustration shows it in the larger wire loom. I'll take another look tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

[RubyredEd]

Okay, found a large red wire in the smaller wire loom. I'm reading 12.5 volts there and no voltage drop when ignition is turned to start. I even tried putting a battery charger on the 200 amp boost setting but still no solenoid or starter engagement. Removed the floor mat to ensure the clutch pedal is as far as it can go, but again no change. One thing that seems strange is the security light never comes on and as I mentioned previously, the remote control does not lock or unlock the doors either by passive or active use. Prior to this it always worked. Not sure what to check next?

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Lock your car door with the key.
Wait a minute.
Unlock you car door with the key.
Then insert the key in the ignition.
Wait 2 seconds.
Turn the key.

Observe the security light throughout that process and record what it does for each step.

It appears that you are not getting past either the security system or the clutch / neutral safety switch.

That would explain why you are not getting anything even with a new battery.

Also observe the voltage needle.
See if it deflects when the key is turned.
I am betting there is no movement as you are not getting past one or both of the above steps.

Your fob sounds as if it needs a battery.
It is possible that something is out of synch with the security system, if you are never seeing the security light either flashing or on.

Also try another ignition key if you have one, and or clean your key with windex, both the pellet and the key itself.

Let us know your results.

If all of this works properly, then we can move on from there.

Marty

[TX '90 ZR1]

This may seem simplistic, but have you put the key in the outside door locks and cycled them? Wiggle them around before removing the key to make sure the lock is centered in the unlocked position.
I was chasing a VATS issue a while back and discovered the passenger side door lock was not making good contact.
A long shot, but not hard to try.
I assume you have checked for any codes present? Cleared if so? Disconnected and reconnected the battery?
Good luck.

Marty, Looks like you posted as I was typing. Appears we are both going the same direction.
Happy Thanksgiving,

[RubyredEd]

Yes, I have a feeling that it does have something to do with security. I did check the voltage on the remote battery and it read a full 3 volts but I will change the battery anyway just to eliminate everything. I will try this on Friday since tomorrow is Thanksgiving. Thank you for your expert advice and have a great Thanksgiving!

[RubyredEd]

Good point, I will definitely cycle the door locks, great idea. Thank you.

[Marc Haibeck]

I have encountered starters with stuck solenoid pistons after storage. I have found that if the starter can be activated one time, it will operate normally thereafter.

One method is what I call the Wakeup Call to the starter. The procedure is on page five of this document.
http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...20problems.htm
The easy place to find the purple wire is on the clutch switch connector under the dash.

Another method is to vibrate the starter. The starter can be struck with a hammer. With a focused light look down next to the power brake booster. You will be able to see the corner of the coil pack. Under that is the starter. Use a 18" long 1/2" steel rod. Place it on the corner of the starter. Have a helper hold the ignition key to start. At the same time strike the steel rod.

[RubyredEd]

Ok, so I cleaned the key, locked and unlocked the door locks with the key, waited 10 seconds and turned the key to on. No security light and no interior chime when the key went in. Also I changed the battery in the remote. No voltage drop when you turn to start, floor mat out of the car and clutch all the way in. I disconnected the battery and waited 10 seconds and reconnected. Thought I heard the interior chime once, but still no interior lights when you open the door. All other dash lights seem normal as does fuel pumps and vacumn pump.
I'm pretty much convinced this has something to do with security, but not sure what's next. As I had mentioned previously the security light and passive lock/unlock always worked prior to this battery going bad.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

If there is an open in Circuit 1073 or 1074, the car will exhibit a "No Crank" condition.
These circuits run from the ignition lock to the CCM

1073- BLK wire coming out of ignition lock Cylinder to the B connector at the base of the steering column.
It then becomes white with blk marker and goes to E12 pass key input on the CCM

1074- BLK from ignition lock cylinder to base of steering column then becomes purple with white tracer going to F5 on the CCM which is the pass key return.


Locate those wires, and check each carefully for a cut or break or a loose connection.

Marty

ps

This would give you a trouble code, and just checked it would be DTC 53

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Do you have another ignition key?
If so, Clean it and try it before anything else.
Marty