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#11 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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They were released in the "Performance Catalog" and it was a tough find for most because they were actually cataloged in the "Oldsmobile" section of the catalogue. Anything "other than" stock configured parts was in that catalog. Where else would you catalog it? First thing you need to do is get a "hands on" of your wheels again, confirm the casting information and move on. ***Since you have the wheels you want to measure your wheels and determine the exact offset of what you have in your possession. That's very easily accomplished. Wheels are sold in "advertised" offsets but I'd measure what I had in my hands and confirm. Assume nothing. Last edited by WVZR-1; 04-15-2015 at 08:18 AM. |
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,154
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Yeah chris I was wonder about that as well
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dunbarton NH
Posts: 7,351
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So, the fronts are 17 x 9.5- 56mm offset.
the rears are 17 x 11- 36mm offset. |
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#14 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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The wheel specifications you've mentioned are correct for the ZR-1 wheels for all production years and all the various styles. Another possible alternative that I've never done but could be considered (would require dimensionally confirming car to car). I believe that you can purchase a 19mm "adapter style" spacer that would require no additional purchases of studs etc. If there's a pocket between the wheel stud bores of our AFS purchase this could work and work well. A very quick swap of stock wheel to A-mold style if you desired. Using the "pass through" with the longer studs makes the wheel swap next to impossible. Last edited by WVZR-1; 04-15-2015 at 09:15 AM. |
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 860
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Those are the stock offsets, yes. My advice is to call Julio and arrange to switch out the rear 50s you received for the correct 36s. I was considering a set when I first bought my Z last year and he confirmed that he had them and even sent me a pic of the rear. Since you haven't mounted them yet, there's no sense in running a spacer when you still have a chance to do it right. Good luck.
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#16 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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#17 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,696
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Some years ago, I had bought a set of AFS A molds for my 84. These were the GS style wheels, ie black spokes w aluminum rim and deep lug. They were the correct offset for the 84 which was 36mm.
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#18 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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I believe this would be an easy decision making procedure.
Take a "plumb-bob" and drop it from the quarter lip at the rear axle center. Measure from your current side wall to the string. You can accomplish a couple things with this, first establish the location of the rear assembly within the body and determine how much of a spacer you feel your particular car can accommodate. If you feel you can accommodate a 5mm increase towards the outboard lip of the quarter then the 19mm "bolt-on" would do. I expect that this would work for most, an exception would be a car that had a rear axle offset towards the right (generally) that is greater than most. You need to drop the "plumb-bob" on each side and compare. Costs nothing to measure. |
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#19 |
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time
Posts: 455
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Steve, my wife bought a set of 4 of those for the red car when she was setting it up. 2 on the front with 315s, no problem, two 18mm (or maybe it's 17mm) spacers from DRM (I think), but needed longer studs and 335's on the rear.
I eventually found something lighter so those now hold my school tires. - Jeff
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#20 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,153
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Now it is based on the dish of the wheel, allowing the Manufacturers get have one stamp/mold for the centers instead of 3. I figure the barrel portion is cheaper/easier option to change on the wheels
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