Brakes Failed

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Have you changed the brake fluid?

I agree with Cliff on the brake master...






David

I have not changed the brake fluid. The only brake work I have done is replace the rear pads with some cheap Autozone pads to make it through the driving season. Over the winter I was going to swap to stainless steel lines, Hawk HPS pads, and some new rotors all the way around.

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Mike lists the correct procedure to see if the area is wet below on the brake Master cylinder and the seals are compromised. I mentioned the booster as a POP was mentioned and both reservoirs were full. I have never heard a master cylinder pop but certainly fail with the pedal immediately hitting the floor. It's clearly either one or the other and I agree with Mike if the pedal arm etc is wet. I have seen two boosters fail in my life time and a loud POP was the first indication of trouble

I was thinking the same thing, but if the booster when out I would just have high pedal effort to stop.

[batchman]

Unless the brake pedal is unhooked you have definitely lost the master cylinder. Any other failure would still have some braking.

The good news is you are here talking about it.

The other good news is outside of bleeding it's a pretty easy job. Be sure to keep the brake fluid away from your paint.

All for now,
- Jeff

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by batchman

Unless the brake pedal is unhooked you have definitely lost the master cylinder. Any other failure would still have some braking.

The good news is you are here talking about it.

The other good news is outside of bleeding it's a pretty easy job. Be sure to keep the brake fluid away from your paint.

All for now,
- Jeff

Don't new master cylinders need to be bench bled? I have a vacuum bleeder, but it sounds like I might be flushing the entire brake system.

I guess it will be a good time to do the lines, and paint the calipers?

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

Don't new master cylinders need to be bench bled? I have a vacuum bleeder, but it sounds like I might be flushing the entire brake system.

I guess it will be a good time to do the lines, and paint the calipers?

Make a project out of it while you are there. I always bench bleed the master before install

[Billy Mild]

Has anyone bought a master cylinder lately? I'm looking at Advance Auto Parts and Rockauto. Advance auto has a ton listed on their site. They are all reman parts, but I don't know which one would be correct for my application.

[mike100]

I don't think the brake parts are ZR-1 specific outside of the J55 option. J55 ended up being standard on all 95 and 96's so all the parts except for the special Zr-1 brake booster should be obtainable from common sources.

[We Gone]

Last one I got was from NAPA casting had some minor differences but worked out great.

[Billy Mild]

There are a ton of Master Cylinders listed on Advance Auto Parts website. They all vary in price as well.

I noticed last night that the front reservoir for brake fluid was empty. I guess that confirms the bad MC?

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

I noticed last night that the front reservoir for brake fluid was empty. I guess that confirms the bad MC?

Yes, since you already verfied no leaking at the calipers.

[We Gone]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

There are a ton of Master Cylinders listed on Advance Auto Parts website. They all vary in price as well.

I noticed last night that the front reservoir for brake fluid was empty. I guess that confirms the bad MC?

That fluid went somewhere, If you can not find any leaks be sure to check the booster I have seen when the seals blow out it let the fluid drain into it. If not look to see if it ran down the front of the booster where the master cylinder bolts on.