Changing the spark plugs.....

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Roadster

also used some wobble extensions trying to find the best combo for #'s 6 & 8.


one of the tough ones....glad they are all out.....whew!!!

the final combo for #8...

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Yep. I use the setup on the right side of the photo (lying on the tire), except for #8. For that, I take off the knuckle and the long extension and drop the socket and short extension into the hole and seat it. Then I use a short breaker bar with a hinged (male) end. Very low profile.

OP: I use a little dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. It only takes (if I recall) 15 ft# of torque for spark plugs. And, being aluminum heads. one does NOT want to over tighten them more than that. (Ooooh! It gives me the "willies" to see a jack handle used as a breaker bar!!

If changing plugs gets yer attention, wait till you change the oil pressure sensor or the C-beam (w/o Boudreau's Beam plates) or the thermostat hose...

On the tire is what I used for #8, I was able to work it in the spark plug hole no problem once I got the right combo. Still needed the 1/2" ratchet with the 3/8" reducer to make it all work.

And yes the jack handle "breaker bar"....I envisioned myself breaking off a plug, but I didn't apply pressure all at once. Just used a back & forth motion with just enough pressure to hear the creaking sounds.....as opposed to a cracking sound......lol I wouldn't recommend anyone else trying that unless they feel really comfortable in doing so.....

If I ever were to do the C-bean plates, that would have to be done at a future WAZOO get together. I don't have a lift and a lot of the guys have already done this job and have the experience for adding the plates...

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by G8nightman

Looks like you can use caters fuel line clamps yours is broken :-)

Hmmmm, have to check that out, what do his look like???

[Roadster]

FYI...Doing more research about using anti-seize, I came across this post from Dave (WVZR-1) in 2014 and will repost here. The following is taken from the NGK site and refers to using or not using anti-seize on their IX plugs....

"1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage."

I think I will not use the anti-seize after reading the above, and torque to spec. I rather check and re-torque if necessary in the future....

[G8nightman]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Hmmmm, have to check that out, what do his look like???

Here you go



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[Roadster]

Originally Posted by G8nightman

Here you go
Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

Thanks George.....

[Roadster]

Just finished installing the plugs a few minutes ago, everything went really well. Except #8....lol....of course the rubber insert was coming out of the short socket during testing. Glad I caught that, so had to glue that back in, and should have lubed the inside of the socket before hand, as the socket was staying attached to the plug inside the head, but the short extensions pulled out fine.....took the plug out, lubed the socket and everything was fine....
I knew there was a reason to install #8 last.....lol

Gapped all the plugs @.050 and checked them twice with two different measure tools...

pic for illustration purposes only....tool I used to correctly gap the plugs and check gap...


other tool used to double check gap....

[Roadster]

Getting ready for surgery.....

the magnetic socket worked great for install, didn't have to be concerned if plug would fall out or move...a good addition to the tool box...

also used the extra long socket for some plugs, also worked real well...

[Roadster]

used my 3/8" drive TW in inch lbs and converted to 15 lb. ft. for plugs. after using a regular 3/8" drive ratchet to slightly tighten, all that was needed from the TW, was about a 1/4 turn, if that to get the proper torque spec.

all plugs were torqued, including #8.....

on a side note, are these wire separators an LT5 exclusive??? if so, does anyone know if there is a GM # for these???


All in all, install went very smooth, engine started right up. ready to go for a ride after the snow and salt disappears, probably next week.....

[WARP TEN]

I always removed number 8 first, so by comparison all the rest were easy as pie.--Bob