Update on my hi-miler Z project

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by mike100

I like it. Did you have the e-brake cover done custom, or was it something off the shelf to match the console lid and shifter boot?

btw, you were my inspiration to rebuild my tilt column. It's on its way back together already. I think I intervened early enough (car only had 27k on it when I got it) and only had to buy the tilt base. The housing only has about .002 slop on one side that I have a bay to bush up. All I have to do now is find a couple of missing screws on a trim item and fix my CD and then the everything will be factory functional on my car.

Thanks Mike,

The e-brake cover was a one-off item from Redline Goods, but once they receive my install pics they will be selling them through their website (which is the same place that made the shift boot and console cover many months ago).

The column is a PITA, but it's one of those things... not much choice in the matter. Glad you got yours fixed up before it was too far gone like mine

-Andrew

[-=Jeff=-]

Hey, is that the Shift know I sold you? how did you color change that and the steering wheel?

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Hey, is that the Shift know I sold you? how did you color change that and the steering wheel?

Yep, that's the same knob. Read a few pages back in this thread, you'll see where I changed the steering wheel. I also have a thread over at the other forum, "DIY steering wheel refinish on a budget". Did it with SEM products, available at most paint supply stores.

[VetteMed]

Got the Nitto 555 tires installed, and had an alignment done. I was trying to do the alignment myself by the string method, and I got it close, but kinda lost patience with the process. A local euro import shop came highly recommended by a neighbor who restores Porsches, seems like they did a very good job, attaining the specs I requested.

I also removed and reinstalled the C-Beam, as I was having some jumping of the shifter during acceleration and shifts. Turns out some of the original adhesive was preventing proper mating of the surfaces. The movement of the shifter is completely eliminated once the C-beam is properly seated.

With the new tires, alignment, and properly installed c-beam, the car feels incredibly smooth and balanced, compared to before. I was driving around today, in disbelief that the car is 21 years old with 192,000 miles on it. Ran the LT5 up to 7K a few times... It was a good day

[GOLDCYLON]

Awesome Andrew !

[tomtom72]

Yea, three of'em! Isn't it great when your plan finally comes together? Good for you Andrew! I'm glad you are finally getting to enjoy the fruits of your labor.


I agree with you about sometimes it's hard to believe that we are driving 20+ yr old cars and they just are soooooo smooth!


Tom

[VetteMed]

Been driving the Z a lot, just hit 193K miles, yesterday get in the car to go run some errands, turn the key, and CLICK, no crank. Battery checked out good, connections good, clutch switch bypassed, starter was rebuilt about 5k miles ago. Since the starter seemed to be the only possible explanation, with the battery and connections ruled out, I pulled the plenum and brought the starter to a local rebuilder to have it checked out.

Turned out to be a missing nut on the stud that is on the "motor" side of the solenoid. Apparently the previous rebuilder neglected to reinstall the nut, and just slipped the rubber cover over the stud. Amazing that it functioned properly for as long as it did.

BTW, there was no way the nut loosened and fell off, as it wasn't in the valley. Just a sloppy rebuilder, I guess.

Got the starter back in and the plenum back on in record time... got home from work at about 6PM, done with dinner by 7, had the motor running by 9PM. As good as I've gotten at working under the plenum, I still curse the guy who chose to utilize that long connector on the back of the ignition module, with the 1/4" nut. WHY is it that the connector that is toughest to get to, has the most ridiculous retention method?


Also... I had this shop bench-test 2 spare LT5 starters that I had on hand, both tested good, if anyone wants to buy one as a spare I'll let em go for $75 shipped.

[pantera1683]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Been driving the Z a lot, just hit 193K miles, yesterday get in the car to go run some errands, turn the key, and CLICK, no crank. Battery checked out good, connections good, clutch switch bypassed, starter was rebuilt about 5k miles ago. Since the starter seemed to be the only possible explanation, with the battery and connections ruled out, I pulled the plenum and brought the starter to a local rebuilder to have it checked out.

Turned out to be a missing nut on the stud that is on the "motor" side of the solenoid. Apparently the previous rebuilder neglected to reinstall the nut, and just slipped the rubber cover over the stud. Amazing that it functioned properly for as long as it did.

BTW, there was no way the nut loosened and fell off, as it wasn't in the valley. Just a sloppy rebuilder, I guess.

Got the starter back in and the plenum back on in record time... got home from work at about 6PM, done with dinner by 7, had the motor running by 9PM. As good as I've gotten at working under the plenum, I still curse the guy who chose to utilize that long connector on the back of the ignition module, with the 1/4" nut. WHY is it that the connector that is toughest to get to, has the most ridiculous retention method?


Also... I had this shop bench-test 2 spare LT5 starters that I had on hand, both tested good, if anyone wants to buy one as a spare I'll let em go for $75 shipped.

PM sent on starters

[tomtom72]

I'll take one if Pantera don't want both....I only have one Z!


Tom

PM sent just in case.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'll take one if Pantera don't want both....I only have one Z!


Tom

PM sent just in case.

PM sent!