LT5 Assembly Project - Page 16 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

LGAFF · 11-08-2008

Slow going right now, waiting on some parts:

1)picked up a crankshaft retainer tool

2)cleaned the girdle today

3)Measured the piston rings, see if these check out with anyone elses measurements:

-Oil Ring: outer diamter(measured on outside): 102MM
Height: 3.5mm
width: 2.75

-rings: diameter(measured on outside) 103MM
height: 1.75mm
width: 4.2mm

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

LGAFF · 11-16-2008

Cleaned the block yesterday, with the crank out it is easy to pick up the block off the engine stand. I power washed everything and its lookg fairly clean. All of the steel items were removed, and I am keeping the iron parts of the girdle with a slight coat of oil on the to avoid rusting.

I also pulled the liner, surprised at how little the effort was to remove the liner, it didn't just slide out but much easier than I anticipated.

A few questions:
1)What is the best way to remove the loctite from off the block and liners.
2)What is used to "glue" the liners back in?
3)What is used to seal the lower girdle to the block
4)Best way to removed stains from oil, etc from aluminum?

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

LGAFF · 11-16-2008

I have head gaskets on order from Jerry, the next steps will be to get the rod bearings, send my main bearing set to DRM for recoating, and have liners checked/buy pistons and liners.

I also need to decide if I should restore the heads, as I have stated before the secondaries were welded shut. Any opinions if it is worth putting the secondaries back in? Or not worth it?

I also am looking for advice on getting that D*** cross threaded bolt out of the head. This is an IH bolt. I have tried a few drill bits bit it does nothing /they barely dimple the bolt. Any suggestions on bits?

Also I will be going Massachuesetts on Monday hoping to test drive a 90 Z if I have time

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Hammer · 11-16-2008

I don't have any answers to your questions except cleaning the block, maybe. If it is still available anywhere, I have used an etching wheel cleaner on aluminum wheels before and they came out very nice. A little elbow grease with a brush and the cleaner worked for me. Just wash it off good when you are done. GL

Polo-1 · 11-16-2008

glue off....... Brake Clean works or Laquer thinner

Glue... Loctite 565 1/2 bead around cylinder 1 inch up from the bottom.

DRM for recoating bearings? where are they sending them to? just a dry film or new copper/babitt??

A26B · 11-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

I also am looking for advice on getting that D*** cross threaded bolt out of the head. This is an IH bolt. I have tried a few drill bits bit it does nothing /they barely dimple the bolt. Any suggestions on bits?
LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Lee,
This is something best done on a good drill press. If not done correctly, it can end up a bigger mess than you have now.

When I used to own a machine shop, I had a set of left hand drill bits for this job. Would set up ( plumb to tapped hole & clamp part down) in a radial arm drill press, center punch the stub if possible & start drilling, progressing up from small to larger bits until an easy out of the correct size could be used.

Done incorrectly, it can be drilled off center or crooked into the aluminum, bits or EZ-outs broken off in the old bolt. Really makes the job more difficult.

If it's done right, the thread can usually be chased with a tap to straighten back out if it hasn't galled a lot of aluminum when backed out. If there is not enough metal to simply chase the threads, a heli-coil can be installed.

I suggest you take it to a good machine shop. It's a quick job for an experienced machinist with the right tools.

Jerry

Zr1 Destroyer · 11-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polo-1

DRM for recoating bearings? where are they sending them to? just a dry film or new copper/babitt??

More then likely going to Calico for recoating!

LGAFF · 11-16-2008

E-mail sent to Calico, I wil llet you know what their repsonse is, the only benefit you would not have is Doug checks them and cleans them up a bit prior to recoating.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

tomtom72 · 11-17-2008

what about these guys.....would any thing that they offer be of any help to you LGAFF?

http://www.afterburnercoatings.com/

Tom

40zr1 · 11-17-2008

For the bolt you can't get out, find a shop that does ultra-sound. At onetime a shop in California called 'Tapped Out' (?) would remove broken, frozen...bolts in industrial machinery using ultra-sound. I don't know how it would effect aluminum, though.

Oil stains in aluminum, 'Easy-Off' oven cleaner might work. Try on scrap aluminum first. It's chemical compound is sodium hydroxide (lye.) Or 100% caustic, it's strong stuff, feels like soap and if you don't have any cuts in your hand it won't burn or hurt your hands. I worked on many caustic pumps and had it on my skin many times (don't leave it on forever!). It cleans the heck out of the grease that gets embedded in an old millwright's hands!

11-08-2008	#151
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: LT5 Assembly Project Slow going right now, waiting on some parts: 1)picked up a crankshaft retainer tool 2)cleaned the girdle today 3)Measured the piston rings, see if these check out with anyone elses measurements: -Oil Ring: outer diamter(measured on outside): 102MM Height: 3.5mm width: 2.75 -rings: diameter(measured on outside) 103MM height: 1.75mm width: 4.2mm LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234

11-16-2008	#152
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: LT5 Assembly Project Cleaned the block yesterday, with the crank out it is easy to pick up the block off the engine stand. I power washed everything and its lookg fairly clean. All of the steel items were removed, and I am keeping the iron parts of the girdle with a slight coat of oil on the to avoid rusting. I also pulled the liner, surprised at how little the effort was to remove the liner, it didn't just slide out but much easier than I anticipated. A few questions: 1)What is the best way to remove the loctite from off the block and liners. 2)What is used to "glue" the liners back in? 3)What is used to seal the lower girdle to the block 4)Best way to removed stains from oil, etc from aluminum? LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234

11-16-2008	#153
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: LT5 Assembly Project I have head gaskets on order from Jerry, the next steps will be to get the rod bearings, send my main bearing set to DRM for recoating, and have liners checked/buy pistons and liners. I also need to decide if I should restore the heads, as I have stated before the secondaries were welded shut. Any opinions if it is worth putting the secondaries back in? Or not worth it? I also am looking for advice on getting that D*** cross threaded bolt out of the head. This is an IH bolt. I have tried a few drill bits bit it does nothing /they barely dimple the bolt. Any suggestions on bits? Also I will be going Massachuesetts on Monday hoping to test drive a 90 Z if I have time LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234 Last edited by LGAFF; 11-16-2008 at 10:42 AM.

11-16-2008	#154
Hammer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Ideho Posts: 2,653	Re: LT5 Assembly Project I don't have any answers to your questions except cleaning the block, maybe. If it is still available anywhere, I have used an etching wheel cleaner on aluminum wheels before and they came out very nice. A little elbow grease with a brush and the cleaner worked for me. Just wash it off good when you are done. GL __________________ [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS]John Boyd[/FONT][/I] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]Ideho[/SIZE][/FONT][/I] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1][I]2015 ZL1 [/I][I]Camaro #1121 BLACK/BLACK 6 SPD (540 RWHP)[/I][/SIZE][/FONT] [I][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=1]1991 ZR-1 #458 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK 72[/COLOR]k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B]) 1991 ZR-1 #473 [COLOR=red]RED/[/COLOR][COLOR=black]BLACK [/COLOR]37k miles ([B][COLOR=red]SOLD[/COLOR][/B])[/SIZE][/FONT][/I]

11-16-2008	#155
Polo-1 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Washington Posts: 955	Re: LT5 Assembly Project glue off....... Brake Clean works or Laquer thinner Glue... Loctite 565 1/2 bead around cylinder 1 inch up from the bottom. DRM for recoating bearings? where are they sending them to? just a dry film or new copper/babitt?? Last edited by Polo-1; 11-16-2008 at 11:39 AM.

11-16-2008	#158
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,194	Re: LT5 Assembly Project E-mail sent to Calico, I wil llet you know what their repsonse is, the only benefit you would not have is Doug checks them and cleans them up a bit prior to recoating. LGAFF 92 ZR1 #234

11-17-2008	#159
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: LT5 Assembly Project what about these guys.....would any thing that they offer be of any help to you LGAFF? http://www.afterburnercoatings.com/ Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

11-17-2008	#160
40zr1 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Boutte, LA 70039 Posts: 33	Re: LT5 Assembly Project For the bolt you can't get out, find a shop that does ultra-sound. At onetime a shop in California called 'Tapped Out' (?) would remove broken, frozen...bolts in industrial machinery using ultra-sound. I don't know how it would effect aluminum, though. Oil stains in aluminum, 'Easy-Off' oven cleaner might work. Try on scrap aluminum first. It's chemical compound is sodium hydroxide (lye.) Or 100% caustic, it's strong stuff, feels like soap and if you don't have any cuts in your hand it won't burn or hurt your hands. I worked on many caustic pumps and had it on my skin many times (don't leave it on forever!). It cleans the heck out of the grease that gets embedded in an old millwright's hands! Last edited by 40zr1; 11-17-2008 at 06:11 PM.