LT5 Assembly Project

[LGAFF]

Bearing 4

Girdle





block

[LGAFF]

Bearing 5:

Girdle





Block:


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I will probably pull the crank late tonight, of course I did not remove the rear main seal prior to puttingit on the stand, so I need to get in there with a torx bit and loosen them.....no clearance:



Once I get the crank out I will go back and at upper bearing photos to these exisiting pics and just put a note in the thread.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[A26B]

Lee,
That "washer" that was behind the crank gear is the seal face for the oil pump seal. That's the one you should be very careful with to insure it doesn't get dinged or scratched. Do not try to clean or polish the seal surface as it is a precision lap finish that must be perfectly flat & square to the crank. In the picture, the sealing surface is laying face down. Wrap it up in a cloth & bag it until you go back together.
Jerry

[LGAFF]

Once the neighborhood kids were done playing hockey with it I bagged it up.

Thanks Jerry!

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I have added block bearing shots, also here is a shot of the reluctor wheel(bottom pic). This plays a role in factory cam timing. In setting the factory cam timing, retaining pins are used to hold the cams in an upright position.

A spring loaded locking pin mechanism is then inserted into the crank sensor hole, and bolted down(pictured below). As the crank is rotated, the spring loaded pin snaps into the openings in the reluctor wheel. The crank needs to be locked in place in the longest slot in the reluctor wheel(see bottom pic/slot on the right)



When the pin slips into one of the shallow notices(see below) the top of the pin sticks out above the crank sensor surface. When it slides into the deepest notch the pin will be nearly flush with the surface of the crank sensor tool surface. This is when you know the crank is in proper position. Balancer keyway is also at about 1 or 2 o'clock. With the cams in place the crank locked in the proper position, the initial timing is basicly set and it is rechecked by rotating the engine 720 degrees and rechecking alignment.



If I have misstated anything, please correct me but this is the basic method of factory cam timing as I understand it.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

Spoke to Doug Rippie, they can teflon coat and refurbish main bearings for $200 per set, if your set is in good enough condition to redo. Sounds like a deal....however he was nice enough to point out that the recoat doesn't solve the next issue:

-Piston Rings!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[LGAFF]

I measured the crank journal: took three measurements to verify consistency. As follows:

Main journal #1 2.757
" " #2 2.757
" " #3 2.756
" " #4 2.758
" " #5 2.762


A few questions:
-Thoughts on next steps with the block/crank? Should it be shipped out to clean or is that a DIY? Any machining needed for block/crank? I will probably be sending out bearings to DRM, and ordering rod bearings.

Liners also need to be addressed, as well as pistons.

Once the block and rotating assembly are addressed I will turn to the heads which need some work.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

-Piston Rings!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

i said before rings are NOT a problem. Total Seal can whip up a set of custom rings in days. no biggie. they doing it for me all the time. they'll just need some measurements, bore dia.
ring(s) thickness
groove depth(s) & height
tension: standard, low, light
plus your intensions with the engine...naturally asperated or power adder etc.

[LGAFF]

I will definately be taking you up on that offer Ryan thanks.

Thanks!


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234