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05-18-2010
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#131 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 738
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Re: Blue Smoke
as far as the tps, and keep in mind I am still ignorant about these engines, did you set it to deflection?
I am not sure if you can do it the same way, but I always set my tps by timing with the 2j, it works much better setting it that way. Quote:
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05-18-2010
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#132 | |
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Magnolia, tx
Posts: 195
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Re: Blue Smoke
Quote:
I did check the voltage KeyOnEngineOff & Warm to make sure it was .54v. but....???...how exactly did you do yours with the timing????? I'll try that too!! thanks! |
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05-18-2010
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#133 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: O'Fallon, Mo
Posts: 738
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Re: Blue Smoke
Quote:
On the 2j I simply put the light on it, loosen the tps and adjust it until I reach the proper timing via the light, then clamp it back down. |
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05-18-2010
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#134 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,407
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Re: Blue Smoke
ok , do you have a compression tester . if so you might run a comp test on her . but to me either you have a coil tower going out (even though they maybe new it does happen ) a partially plugged injector or a weak wire . corey can clean your injectors .i believe his price is better than rc. have you tried giving him a call and asking his thoughts ? what you have done so far is to at least gotten it down to be a prob with the 4 hole . which is a good thing . now to finding what it is .
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05-19-2010
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#135 | |
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Blue Smoke
Quote:
 Our timing is set electronically via the ignition programing and is not something that you adjust. Okay so we are down to just #4 hole having a 1/2 fouled plug? To set my TPS I always use either my VOM or my scanner in a KOEO situation. I agree with Brad, either do a compression and leak down test on just that hole. Or pull that injector to see the condition of the tip, or maybe that tower on that brand new coil is no good.....very rare but it happens. IMHO, since I don't have the tools to do a leak down or compression test, I would pull the plenum to check that injector and pull out that coil and substitute in a good one from my spare parts inventory, button it up and run it and then look at the plug. Think of it this way, once pulled you could easily see if the injector tip is screwed up with crud, or you can do a injector flow test by cranking the starter ( okay you need another person for that. ). If the stream is bad, I would think that you should see it, I hope.  Tom
__________________
1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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05-19-2010
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#136 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Magnolia, tx
Posts: 195
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Re: Blue Smoke
Brad / Tom / Todd
 I dont have a comp tester, I really need to do what yall are recommending. but..... My current dilema is: (somewhere in this thread you guys may remember) I still have original 90z cat/manifolds: I had the driver side empty cat cut off and a transition collar welded on to the manifold to attach a new hi-flow cat....the pass side cat (also empty) I did not cut off, I had to leave it on and had a new cat welded in just after it. all in the name of getting her legal as my last sticker was 2007. In considering this jury rig....I feel I need to do one of the following: -have my buddy muffler shop cut off the pass side orig. empty cat the same as he did the driv side and add the trans collar, put the new cat back on then add the x pipe behind the cats and put in the flowmaster mufflers i wanted. cheesy i know -take it to Corey and have him do his magic on the injector issues/cly#4 and tune. ... but I realy feel that my exhaust sytem is clogged up maybe with all the orig. cat reminants, so having Corey fix and tune with exhaust issues may not be the best steps. -take it to Corey and have him put his headers on and maybe he could install the x-pipe and add mufflers to it, then he could do his thing with my inj/#4 cyl issues and tune. I have never talked to Corey, as i wanted to get my head straight with what route to take with my issues. I am leaning towards leaving the orig manifolds and choping off the pass cat and adding the flowmasters myself. cash-ola is the main reason, then taking it to Corey, but my conscious is saying NO to cheesi-ness. 
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05-19-2010
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#137 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes
Posts: 1,407
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Re: Blue Smoke
you will find corey to be one of the easiest guys to talk to with . he is all about helping us in any way he can .one has to do what one can with the cash avail. i understand your delima . get her done so you can drive her then save for what you really want .again if there is anyway i can help just pm me . i will call corey and tell him you might call .
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05-19-2010
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#138 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Magnolia, tx
Posts: 195
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Re: Blue Smoke
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thanks Brad !! |
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05-19-2010
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#139 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Blue Smoke
Luis,
This is just MHO. The empty cats are not related to this issue. Simply put as long as the O2 sensors work properly, and the MAP, IAT, et al then the fueling programing on the EPROM is followed. I'm thinking that that injector is possibly the trouble maker. That coil tower is a close second suspect. Okay, so I'm not very advanced in LT5's, but I would pull the plenum to swap an old good coil in ( I have extra coils I could send you ) and at the same time I'd pull the injector rail to get at the injectors in the #4 hole. You never know what you might see. If the tip is fouled then you found the answer. Actually because of the type of luck I have with stuff. I'd be pulling all 16 to eye them up and I'd try to get them to flow fuel with the rails off the I/H's so I could see the fuel spray pattern. Trouble is I do not know how to get them to flow fuel while the injectors are out of their holes! . I'll go look in the FSM and report back what I find on that subject.Tom
__________________
1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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05-20-2010
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#140 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Magnolia, tx
Posts: 195
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Re: Blue Smoke
Went over to Ricks last nite to help him with his clutch changeout, crazy nite we were working on his then drove mine to parts house and on way back super loud squealing noise and burnt rubber smell from under hood, got it to his house and popped the hood, the belt tensioner pulley seemed to be dragging, so (long story try to shorten) had my wife find my new idler pulley in garage and bring it out to us. put it on cranked it up and still similiar almost roaring sound, best we can tell its the alternator bearing...cant figure it would be anything else, doesnt sound internal at all. Z spent the nite didnt want to chance driving it 50 miles at 11:00pm . oh well gotta get a atlernator for tonite......we're supposede to be fixin his not mine....dam sorry Rick.. lol
really wanted to post this: when rick drove it last nite before the alt/idler issue, I watch to see if the ses light came on when we got up to 7000rpm , and no light... rick agrees its not running fullpwr its like 3/4 fullpwr if thats possible. so .....my pea brain is thunking that, if No ses lights and seems to be running 3/4 power....do you think that maybe the secondary Fuel pump is not working or maybe partially working so as not to provide ample fuel to secondary injectors????? I know thats not the cure for my start-up smoking, and or the #4 fouling...but could it maybe the culprit for the partial power and no ecm fault indications????? i just went searching and found something on...egine running...pull primary pump fuse to ck sec pump operation, that should tell me right??? but ,..uh....now since i will have to pull penum anyway to change atlernator, guess good time to ck injectors condition and then after do the fuel pump test ....Luis |
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