OBX cat-back exhaust - Page 13 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

efnfast · 03-02-2012

Thanks Paul, I have no doubt the bracket will show up. I was refering to the exhaust, that I'm worried about. I'll beleive it when i see it. I had problems processing the order.

Steve

tomtom72 · 03-02-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by efnfast

Tom, hopefully we both have this done before BG, and hopefully we can still hook up for the ride. Bitch having the car so far away, mine lives in a heated (and air conditioned ) garage at the house, but my abilities are certainly limited. I need to tear into things so i'm not so afraid of them. My down side is my driveway is about 3000' of dirt, then a mile of dirt road to the tar. Long ride in first gear at an idle.

Steve

<--- I'm green with envy Steve! I better not let my car read your post because she lived in a climate controlled garage until she got sold into slavery and I bought her. She might get mad at me.....but Mistress does get plenty of fresh air and exercise since she's been with me! I'd kill for a 20' x 10' unheated garage with a dirt floor!

I may get the cat back done before BG. It depends upon if and how much of the system I decide to coat and who's coating I decide to use. God I hate budgets! Either way, with or without the exhaust I'll be at BG though, you can make book on that!

Tom

tomtom72 · 03-03-2012

Okay, for real this time I unpacked all my Mistress' presents from all the recent Christmas's past! You didn't really think I put Christmas lights on my headers every year, right?

my photos are here: I thought it appropriate to put the stuff in Carter's album, although I'm sure Carter does prettier welds!

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...20CTMachining/

I have some Questions for the exhaust experts.
Is the right side OE CAT exit 3" on our cars? I ask because on the S/S wks CAT seems to be and the bell on the OBX pipe only allows the CAT ball about 5/16" to a 1/4" of depth into the OBX bell connection. Is that going to leak?

The OBX clamps have cheesey hardware so I think in the long run the Accuseal stuff is the way to go. But on the left side CAT exit the OBX supplied clamp seems to be a better answer to the connection than the Accuseal supplied by S/S Wks. The A-seal clamp is a single band clamp, and the OBX supplied no-name clamp is a stepped type double wide band clamp. What does the brain trust think about that choice? Which would you use? I say the cheapie clamp looks to be better suited for the connection, no?
Disclaimer: I haven't looked through A-seal's line up yet to see what they have for sale. Personally I would have liked wider bands on the clamps? Or am I looking for monsters under the bed?

This question is a bit more esoteric, would you coat the OBX system at least back to the muffler connection to keep heat radiation down into the cockpit and to keep up the stream velocity?

TIA
Tom

tomtom72 · 03-03-2012

A-seal clamp in place on left side CAT to head pipe connection. The OBX supplied clamp is to the right.

The same connection as above, only with the OBX supplied clamp used.

This is the connection I am concerned about, the S/S Wks CAT meets the OBX head pipe.

you can just see the pencil line for the depth of the connection.

Blue Flame Restorations · 03-03-2012

Tom, I think that coating the at least the headers, would be the way to go. I'm crying uncle on $$ and will not coat my headers AT THIS TIME. I have a long jorney ahead and will take them back off and coat them before the job is done. Silly, I know but hey, my money tree is getting sparse!

The pipes back to the mufflers would probably not cost all that much to coat.

tomtom72 · 03-03-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue Flame Restorations

Tom, I think that coating the at least the headers, would be the way to go. I'm crying uncle on $$ and will not coat my headers AT THIS TIME. I have a long jorney ahead and will take them back off and coat them before the job is done. Silly, I know but hey, my money tree is getting sparse!

The pipes back to the mufflers would probably not cost all that much to coat.

Brett, I agree about the money tree....mine is more than a bit sparse! Since I don't have a garage I have to make this right the first time as there are no do over's. My brain tells me that swain tech coating on the headers is the way to go, yes their price is ouch but ya get what ya pay for. Fortunately I can wait on the headers because they're not ready to be coated I have to allot $$ to get the A.I.R. tubes added, then they can be coated.

The CAT-back system is where I'm less decisive. I know s/s is a lousey insulator, and it will be as fast as the OE system at letting heat escape. The hot rod fact is that you want to keep heat in the gas stream so the rest of the pipes should be coated for optimal performance gains. A side benefit would be to lessen the heat in the cockpit. Besides, I'm probably going to paint the mufflers & tips chassis semi-gloss black to keep the OE look I like at the back of my black car....the OE exh is barely noticeable and polished s/s is going to stick out like a neon sign. I'm not much to the bling thing! LOL

ScottZ95ZR1 · 03-03-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I have one of the dipstick tube brackets that Jeffvette made. He gave it to me when I bought my headers.

Tom

Tom: You may have an extra dipstick tube bracket when it's all said and done as I sent you a PW special with the stage 8 bolts.

tomtom72 · 03-03-2012

Oh thanks Scott! Then I will offer the extra back into the general spare parts inventory to be paid forward when a need comes up.

I have a question for you as I figure you have already done headers on a Z. Would some blue lock-tite and regular s/s lock washers be okay to use in place of the special locking tabs that generally come with the stage 8 kit?

TIA
Tom

ScottZ95ZR1 · 03-03-2012

That's exactly what I did Tom. I did not use their fasteners or washers, for that matter. I only used their bolts with blue loctite. The thing I like the most about their bolts is that the smaller hex-head is easier to work with, for me anyway.

tomtom72 · 03-03-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottZ95ZR1

That's exactly what I did Tom. I did not use their fasteners or washers, for that matter. I only used their bolts with blue loctite. The thing I like the most about their bolts is that the smaller hex-head is easier to work with, for me anyway.

Great minds think alike!

Thank Scott for sharing the info! You Da Man!

Tom

03-02-2012	#121
efnfast Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Dunbarton NH Posts: 7,536	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust Thanks Paul, I have no doubt the bracket will show up. I was refering to the exhaust, that I'm worried about. I'll beleive it when i see it. I had problems processing the order. Steve

03-03-2012	#123
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,637	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust Okay, for real this time I unpacked all my Mistress' presents from all the recent Christmas's past! You didn't really think I put Christmas lights on my headers every year, right? my photos are here: I thought it appropriate to put the stuff in Carter's album, although I'm sure Carter does prettier welds! http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...20CTMachining/ I have some Questions for the exhaust experts. Is the right side OE CAT exit 3" on our cars? I ask because on the S/S wks CAT seems to be and the bell on the OBX pipe only allows the CAT ball about 5/16" to a 1/4" of depth into the OBX bell connection. Is that going to leak? The OBX clamps have cheesey hardware so I think in the long run the Accuseal stuff is the way to go. But on the left side CAT exit the OBX supplied clamp seems to be a better answer to the connection than the Accuseal supplied by S/S Wks. The A-seal clamp is a single band clamp, and the OBX supplied no-name clamp is a stepped type double wide band clamp. What does the brain trust think about that choice? Which would you use? I say the cheapie clamp looks to be better suited for the connection, no? Disclaimer: I haven't looked through A-seal's line up yet to see what they have for sale. Personally I would have liked wider bands on the clamps? Or am I looking for monsters under the bed? This question is a bit more esoteric, would you coat the OBX system at least back to the muffler connection to keep heat radiation down into the cockpit and to keep up the stream velocity? TIA Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

03-03-2012	#124
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,637	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust A-seal clamp in place on left side CAT to head pipe connection. The OBX supplied clamp is to the right. The same connection as above, only with the OBX supplied clamp used. This is the connection I am concerned about, the S/S Wks CAT meets the OBX head pipe. you can just see the pencil line for the depth of the connection. __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

03-03-2012	#125
Blue Flame Restorations Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pendleton, IN Posts: 3,906	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust Tom, I think that coating the at least the headers, would be the way to go. I'm crying uncle on $$ and will not coat my headers AT THIS TIME. I have a long jorney ahead and will take them back off and coat them before the job is done. Silly, I know but hey, my money tree is getting sparse! The pipes back to the mufflers would probably not cost all that much to coat. __________________ 1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project

03-03-2012	#128
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,637	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust Oh thanks Scott! Then I will offer the extra back into the general spare parts inventory to be paid forward when a need comes up. I have a question for you as I figure you have already done headers on a Z. Would some blue lock-tite and regular s/s lock washers be okay to use in place of the special locking tabs that generally come with the stage 8 kit? TIA Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

03-03-2012	#129
ScottZ95ZR1 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Pendleton, IN Posts: 668	Re: OBX cat-back exhaust That's exactly what I did Tom. I did not use their fasteners or washers, for that matter. I only used their bolts with blue loctite. The thing I like the most about their bolts is that the smaller hex-head is easier to work with, for me anyway.