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View Poll Results: Which battery do you have in your ZR-1?
AC Delco 115 46.37%
Autocraft 4 1.61%
EverStart (Wal-Mart) 13 5.24%
Exide 5 2.02%
Kirkland (Costco) 2 0.81%
Interstate 25 10.08%
MAXX 3 1.21%
NAPA 4 1.61%
Nascar (Sams Club) 1 0.40%
Optima 30 12.10%
Sears Diehard 14 5.65%
Bosch 5 2.02%
Duralast (Autozone) 19 7.66%
Odyssey 6 2.42%
Braille 2 0.81%
Voters: 248. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-22-2019   #91
Karl
 
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George Maz View Post
Cold Cranking 330
Pulse Hot Cranking 900 (5 seconds)

The AGM is low internal resistance by design, so it will deliver whatever demand (starter) at a higher amperage, than even a larger battery of flooded cell type.

I happen to have an Odyssey battery in everything I own (11 batteries currently), startups are much quicker. Battery longevity of 8-10 years, with more reliable performance throughout.

Since I do not know how old the battery is in my Z and the prior owners did not maintain the car to my standards I went ahead and purchased the PC 925L Odyssey battery.

It is smaller, weighted about 6 lbs less than the ac Delco 75A 630CCA battery, and easily outperforms it.

I got the stinger battery post adapters from eBay.

Installation was a little tricky with the positive terminal on the left but I got it in with no problems.

I used the factory battery bolt and rubber mount to help secure the battery along with drilling a couple of small holes in the battery tray and some tie downs to secure the battery down.

So far so good! The car started quicker than normal and runs with no issues. Maybe the old battery was dying, who knows.
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Last edited by Karl; 09-23-2019 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 09-23-2019   #92
lfalzarano
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

Next time get a Delco. It looks like it came with the car.

AC Delco 75VPG Battery
Warranty: 42 Mo.
BCI Group Size: 75
Volts: 12
Reserve Capacity: 95
AH@20: 52
Cold Cranking Amps: 700
Cranking Amps: 875
UPC:* # 808709348627
Terminal Type:* Side Post
Length (in):* 8-11/16 Inch
Width (in):* 6-13/16 Inch
Height (in):* 7-3/16 Inch


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Old 09-23-2019   #93
Karl
 
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

Unless that Delco is an AGM battery it is inferior in many ways.

I just took an ac Delco unit out.
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Old 09-24-2019   #94
lisounds
 
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

i use Delco Battery
they look right
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Old 09-24-2019   #95
lfalzarano
 
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Default Which battery do you have?

The ZR-1 battery tray
Dimensions are 9.00 × 8.80 × 7.30

The AGM
SPECIFICATIONS
Amp Hour:60.0 AH
BCI Group Size:78
Cold Cranking Amperage:740 A
Cranking Amperage:925 A
Height:7.25 in
Length:10.937 in
Negative Terminal Location:Side Right
Positive Terminal Location:Side Left
Reserve Capacity:115 min
Terminal Type:Side Mount
Voltage:12.0 VDC
Weight:38.7 lb
Width:7.312 in

The tray may need to be modified to accommodate the larger Group 78 AGM battery.

It is a great battery if you are not keeping your ZR-1 stock.



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Old 09-24-2019   #96
Karl
 
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

The one I use is the PC925L and it is smaller and weights 26lbs. Car fires right up!
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Old 05-25-2020   #97
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

Interstate
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Old 05-27-2020   #98
rush91
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Carterville Illinois
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

I added to the poll Duralast from Autozone. Comes with a 3 or 4 year warranty and fits in perfectly. I had a dead battery a few years back after a long winter, and they just replaced it with a new battery. It was only a 2 years old at the time and instead of throwing it on a charger, it was replaced.
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Old 05-31-2020   #99
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

We replaced the battery in my wife's '69 C3 shortly (w/ in a a year or so) of when she bought it in '06. It was an AutoZone 75 series (same size as or Zs batteries) and it has been maintained with a BATTERY TENDER whenever it was parked in the garage. It still cranks her 11:1 compression SBC over "like new".

(Flooded) Lead-acid battery technology for cars use has been pretty stable for 100+ years. So, for a given series size battery, they generally perform comparatively the same, more or less. But, the KEY to long life is how they're maintained!

Long story short, a chemical reaction between the sulfuric acid and the lead plates will occur to form an insulating barrier coating the lead plates - effectively reducing the area of the plates to the electrolyte which has the effect of reducing the battery's capacity (thnk: size) That's the bad news.

The good news is a charging voltage applied reversing the internal discharge current flow direction has the added effect of arresting the formation of lead sulfide crystals and removing the crystals from the plates which falls to the bottom of the battery (along with a slight but important amount of free lead material).

So, putting a "trickle" charger on the battery when not in use keeps the formation of lead sulfide at bay, but once the battery is fully charged (especially), then hydrogen molecules are stripped from the electrolyte (H2SO4) and water molecules (H2O) commonly referred to as "gassing". That's not so good for several reasons.

But, technology to the rescue! IIRC from research (decades ago), it was Texas Instrument that developed a chip that would monitor and trickle charge a (car) battery until it reached full charge, and then switch automatically to a "pulse" mode which would stave off the formation of sulfide w/o causing the "gassing" which was the issue with previous (aka "dumb") charger/charging technique.

Nowa dayz, practically all the better chargers have "TI's" technology on board, including "TI's" Battery Tender which is what maintains Ami's AutoZone battery for around 12(?) years now.

Worth mentioning... Our cars draw a tiny amount of current necessary to support the radio pre-sets and the stored history and learned performance data in the ECM. So, disconnecting either one of the battery cables or employing a manual battery disconnect switch, will prevent the current from trickling away while the battery is not being charged. Coupled with cold (or especially freezing cold) temps, the chemical reaction resulting in the sulfide formation is significantly slowed as well.

So, coupled with ample reserve capacity of a relatively fresh series 75 battery, some prefer to installing a battery switch to using one of the battery maintaining (pulse type) chargers - especially in unattended locations or locations w/o a power source.

Which method is "best"? Well, technically, the modern "pulse" type maintainer provides the standard by which the battery cutoff switch technique is judged. However, practically speaking, there may not be any significant difference, depending on the conditions under which the battery is stored.

So, for the cost of a fill-up or two, you can buy a (pulse) type charger. Is a few more years of good service worth the hassle compared to a cutoff switch? You'll have to make the call*.
*Note: My (decade+ old) data stems entirely from that of standard flooded, lead-acid tech, and may or may not directly apply to other lead/sulfuric acid configurations, e.g., AGM. So, YMMV, as they say!
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Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-08-2020 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 08-18-2020   #100
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Default Re: Which battery do you have?

DuraCell from Sams Club
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