trans etc...change-out questions

[FULLPWR]

I recently pulled the trans to replace the broken t/o bearing, and will be putting it all back together this weekend. I been going over as many of clutch changeouts threads and have gotten so much info, some of which i wish i had read first, but some questions i just cant find the answers to.
it takes a while to read the threads but you cant just stop and go to another cuz there is so much dam good info.
I just have a few questions i need help with..

I did not mark the location of the pressure plate as it was bolted to the f/w when i removed it....what should i do putting it back?
(oh I did not remove the DM it is still mounted)

red loctite on p/p, trans, housing, pivot ball,ect...right?

i have the exact amount of bmw oil from bill, should i drain the trans while its out and fill it when its in, to keep from losing oil when working the trans in? just to make sure i get the exact amount in as instructed

what is the best grease you guys recommend for the shaft & t/o i.d. ?
Luis

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by FULLPWR

I recently pulled the trans to replace the broken t/o bearing, and will be putting it all back together this weekend. I been going over as many of clutch changeouts threads and have gotten so much info, some of which i wish i had read first, but some questions i just cant find the answers to.
it takes a while to read the threads but you cant just stop and go to another cuz there is so much dam good info.
I just have a few questions i need help with..

I did not mark the location of the pressure plate as it was bolted to the f/w when i removed it....what should i do putting it back?
(oh I did not remove the DM it is still mounted)

Always better to mark it first - cuz the FSM says so. But, on 3 different occasions I did not and had no problems. Furthermore, when installing a new PP, there is no way to index the PP with the FW. If it becomes a problem, I suppose you could pull the FW and take it and the PP to a driveline shop and have them balance them together - I did that once upon a time. Piece of mind is worth something, but apparently not all that necessary most of the time, I find.

red loctite on p/p, trans, housing, pivot ball,ect...right?

For years I never used the stuff on automotive stuff: got lucky, I guess. But, my experience w/ the red LT is you have to apply HEAT to whatever to get it loose again. My speed shop buddies use a lot of blue LT on stuff that isn't suppose to come loose, including FW bolts. Following their lead and recommendations here, I've been using blue LT, but would reserve the red stuff for things like the FW....maybe. JMO.

i have the exact amount of bmw oil from bill, should i drain the trans while its out and fill it when its in, to keep from losing oil when working the trans in? just to make sure i get the exact amount in as instructed

I would fill it or top it off once everything was assembled and level. The "exact amount", once the car is sitting level (on jacks or whatever) is when the oil level just reaches the fill plug hole and starts to leak out. The it is "right". Reinstall the plug and you're good to go.

BTW, Bill recommends we change the oil in the ZF at about the 12000 mile mark. I had a ZF seize up on me one time - a common mode failure, according to Bill B. The reverse gear spins freely on it's shaft when not engaged, and at highway speeds it is really spun up. Bill B opens up the oil galleries serving that section of the trans when he does is magic. But, he recommends the 12k change "just to be sure".

what is the best grease you guys recommend for the shaft & t/o i.d. ?
Luis

I use whatever comes w/ the t/o bearing, but if someone has a better suggestion, I'll consider it. Otherwise, I use a moly-based high temp grease, FWIW.

One person's opinion, base on success over the years. YMMV. Hope this helps.

P.

[FULLPWR]

Thanks Paul !!!!

[jonszr1]

i would ck with bill boudreau on what to use .i do know that you should never put any greaseon the part that goes into the pilot bushing, that i do remember when bill redid my tranny give him a call 602 319 6575

[FULLPWR]

Thanks jonszr1

[rhipsher]

Hey fullpwr I've done it two times now and am getting ready to do it a third time. Plus we both live in Houston. Pm me I'll give you my ph#

[FULLPWR]

man ive been reading all your threads.... never looked to the left to pay attention to location.......but I sure look left when i see jeffvette's avatar's or others that have highperformance pics

I actually just moved to magnolia,tx 1488 this past feb and havent updated location, the z is on jack stands at my old house in houston and is only thing left to get out of the garage.

sending pm

[rhipsher]

JEFFVETTE! Who the heck is that.

[Hammer]

I just did my clutch and flywheel. The only place the FSM specifies any loctite is on the flywheel bolts and it specifically states red.

What will really freak you is the torque on the pressure plate bolts, it's only 30 lbs/ft and you can get more than that just tightening them with a 3/8" rachet. I didn't dare go more than that as I installed an aluminum flywheel and that torque was for the dual mass.

We'll see how everything holds. Heading to BG in a few weeks.

[rhipsher]

Cuz when this happens! You f*cked. And it doesn't care what time of day or night it is or how important where you have to go is. And yes I put the new one back on the right way as you can see and it still broke again a year later.
And there are those that say it should last another 60k miles before it might break again. Not on my car it doesn't.