![]() |
#1 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,712
|
![]()
I have been trying to locate and get rid of this annoying popping noise from the rear. Replacing all shocks helped but did not eliminate completely.
The noise seems to occur when the rear moves up and down in rapid succession (like going over a washboard surface). With 109,000 miles on the odo, I am beginning to suspect rear tie rod ends and/or toe center link. This center link seems to have socket joints. A few questions for suspension gurus put there: 1. Would worn out tie rod ends make this type of noise? Does socket joints in the center go bad over time? 2. Early cars (up to 91) I think has greasiable rod ends. My 94 has no fitting for grease. Is it better to have greasiable rod ends? If so, would early rod ends mate to inner rod and bolt up to rear knuckle? 3. Corvette Central carries a high performance version of inner and outer toe link assemble for about the same money as factory piece. Would it make better sense to go this route? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,469
|
![]()
Are you sure it's not wheel bearing?
Rich
__________________
1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,712
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,469
|
![]()
Yeah, maybe not. I guess wheel bearings would be a continous noise, not a pop or clank.
__________________
1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,687
|
![]()
Yun, I would be gald to offer a donor rear tie rod assembly from one of my cars, but they have almost as many miles as yours. Maybe we can find a lower miles donor that is willing to do a swap and comparison run.
Anyone out there???? Jim
__________________
If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,712
|
![]() Quote:
Replacement parts are about $243 (factory)vs. $309 (aftermarket). You know how it is. I have been trying to eliminate this for about a year and replaced spring cushion, shock bushing and shocks(I needed these replaced anyway). I hope this solves the problem (annoying more than anything). |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Neptune Beach, FL
Posts: 8
|
![]()
Any progress on this??? Have you tried torquing the trailing arm pivot bolts to the proper torque? Check the trailing arm bracket too. These components will make "popping" noises when relative motion occurs caused by bumps or braking/acceleration forces.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|