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#11 |
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#12 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Prather, CA
Posts: 809
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![]() Like this?: ![]() That's nice of them to let it express its feelings... ![]() ![]() ![]() .
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[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/_zr1netforumsigphoto.jpg[/IMG][B] 1990 Corvette ZR-1 [/B][I] White/Flame Red, #2299, mostly stock, 144K miles.[/I] -Cams timed to the '93-'95 405HP LT5 stock timing. -IAT sensor relocated to below front bumper. -Haibeck hoops installed in airduct. -OBX cat-back exhaust. [COLOR=DarkRed][B](SOLD - December 2012 [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=DarkRed][B]:hello:)[/B][/COLOR] 1993 Corvette Coupe Black/Black, 6-speed (SOLD - October 2009 :hello:) |
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#13 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Side of Chicago
Posts: 122
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Jim
1994 Corvette convertible Sold. 92 #178, Haibeck chip,Hawk brake's,RC injectors, B&B cat back, X-Pipe and 49th St. Rockers sold. |
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#14 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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I have an easier and much more fun way of getting the oil to circulate thru the cooler. I mean if it circulates thru the cooler when you change the oil at least you got some of it out, hopefully?
Go out and find a deserted two lane twisty and do laps till the oil temp gauge gets to 1/2 way....if the road is tight enough it will not take long if you spend a lot of time in 2nd & 3rd between 4 & 5 k rpms. You'd be surprised how fast the temp gauge gets up to 1/2 in a long series of 2nd gear esses or if you spend enough time in a series of 3rd gear corners. As a bonus you look like this if you have at it long enough! ![]() ![]()
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 241
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Draining the oil cooler is pretty easy. Simply get a 6 to 7' piece of clear flexible 3/8 plastic tubing and cut the end of it at a very steep angle, like 60 degrees or there abouts. Remove the oil lines at the cooler with the single bolt that holds it in place. Its either a 10 or 12 MM head I believe. This step will be a bit messy so have a rag stuffed underneath the area as best you can. Once the lines are out of the way feed the plastic line into the top hole and slide it in until you get resistance. At that point start twisting the plastic line and while pushing inward and you should feel it make its way around the corner and head for the bottom of the cooler. Once you feel you have gone as far as it will go then put the might vac on it and start suctioning out the oil. Once you have got a siphon going simply place the end of the plastic line in a small catch can and give it a few hours to siphon out. I usually get about half to 2/3rds of a quart. When refilling the motor with fresh oil the total amount required to get a perfect "top off" on the dip stick is usaully real close to 10 quarts.
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91 ZR-1 #661 Watsons, 3" exhaust, Borlas... Hurst, 4.11s, Samco, RD radiator, gel coated motor... turquise / black Last edited by ZRXMAX; 11-14-2009 at 02:45 AM. |
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#16 | |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 1,648
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![]() Perfect. Why is it that the simplest most effective result is always the hardest thing to figure out? ![]() TomC "Crabs"
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TomC '90ZR1 #792 Honorary Pirate [B]If it ain't FUN, you're doing something terribly WRONG. [/B] |
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#17 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 241
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One more thing to add is that raising the right side of the car 5 or 6 inches will get little bit more oil out. If you really wanted to clean it out you could flush it... its to messy for me though. ![]()
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91 ZR-1 #661 Watsons, 3" exhaust, Borlas... Hurst, 4.11s, Samco, RD radiator, gel coated motor... turquise / black |
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