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#1 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Posts: 580
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where can one get the raptor shift light .?????and how does it get wired to the car ???
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#2 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arcadia, OK
Posts: 3,404
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Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 ZR-1, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed. Last edited by A26B; 02-28-2012 at 08:36 PM. |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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(I thought I posted this earlier, but now can't find it here. Anywayz..)
Thanks Jerry for the detailed info re the A pillar mount. The shift light is ever so much more accurate than the analog tach, and when drag racing, ya don't have to be looking directly at it to see it in your peripheral vision - and keep ya from bouncing off not only the rev limiter, but the guard walls too! I really like the clean cockpit look, so the hidden approach apeals to me. Your mileage may vary. AND, the popular AC vent installation looks like this... (Note: there are acutally six (or so) leds and on start-up the light says "hello" by turning them on and off in a circular pattern for a second or so. The camera only caught a couple, but when the time comes, all come on, and even in daylight you will not miss it. In fact, I have mine intentionally aimed toward my right eye. As you can see, ya miss it!) ![]() The Raptor is only 3/4" in diameter, and can easily be inserted through a hole drilled in the plastic. Plastic tape is wrapped around the barrel of the lite to generate the desired fit. Referring to the FSM, the C100 connector is where the white tack wire can be intercepted. You'll have to remove the hush panel to see the connector, located about 2" from your big (left) toe (while driving). To fische the wires down there, after disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery...very important...you can use a coat hanger wire to snake down to where you can grab it, and tape the Rapor wires to the other end, you can them pull the wiring down to the footwell area and splice them. |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,609
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![]() ![]() ![]() JMHO, but 1st gear ratio is too big ( isn't it like a 2.63 gear? ) for the power available and the stock rear gear ratio. If I had money to waste I would like to see the Z's box with a 2.20 1st gear like the M22's used? That set up in my 72 LT-1, an M22 box with a 3.55 rear gear & 15" wheels, yielded 10 mph per 1k rpm in 1st gear. So 0 to 60 mph was done in 1st without even being close to the factory red line of 6800 rpms. To a road work person, having a "useable" 1st gear is a God send! Those pesky hairpin turns & all ya know. ![]() ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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I've never seen a shift light in mine and have reved as high as 8k. But at 8k I do notice the drop in torque. The engine revs faster than my tac needle can keep up with in first gear. I don't make hitting 8k a habit either. 2500rpm drag strip launches may be fine with the dual mass flywheel but not with a Fidanza. If you launch at 2500 with the Fidanza you'll drop like a rock and bog for a second before the rpm's come back up. I've launched mine with the Fidanza at 4500rpm's with Mickey Thompson s. Thats the sweet spot for me. Having a stroked LT5 with a Fidanza may not cause you to bog off the line because of the massive torque and hp they produce.
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: McHenry, Il.
Posts: 6,584
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On the Dunlop street tires I do a 3500 rpm clutch dump.
Having a nice ceramic stage II from CC helps a lot as well on the launch plus my secret tuner chip all have worked well to give extra spunk to the Z. I really do like the Fidanza a lot. I shift at 7K on the needle and have only hit the rev limiter once - so I know it works!! |
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#7 |
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Prather, CA
Posts: 804
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I hit the rev limiter once, I was in 4th gear. Put the hammer down and didn't let up until the needle was right at 7K and that is when the engine hit the fuel cutoff limiter. I don't remember exactly what my speed was I think it was a bit north of 140MPH.
So I think my tach is actually fairly accurate still, being that the limiter is set at 7200, that would mean it was reading only 200 RPM low at that point. Nearly every time I drive my Z, I do at least one short run through the gears to at least 6K to make sure the secondaries stays clean and working. ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,624
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top of 4th is probably closer to north of 160
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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#9 |
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Harrisburg NC USA
Posts: 45
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I have never hit the limiter in mine but Im almost 100% sure I have cams in it, the higher you run it up the harder it pulls all the way to 8k. My close uncle has a 90 Z and his " dies" at 6700-6800 ish
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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Same here. Mine pulls beyond 7k. I've driven many others Z's that don't run as good as mine. I always thought that there was just something wrong with theirs. Maybe its the other way around. Maybe somethings been done to give it more pep besides what I've done to it. I guess I'll never know. Not knowing doesn't hurt my feelings one bit. Lol!
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