1 Week Ago | #11 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Speedway, IN
Posts: 133
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
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1 Week Ago | #12 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,704
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display?
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
1 Week Ago | #13 | |
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,165
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Quote:
not for that you need the reverse polarized kit from Batee, then you need a white backing to swap from the orange EDIT.. you would need this: https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...rt-kit-for-lcd and like this but not orange https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...42570426843291
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 Last edited by -=Jeff=-; 1 Week Ago at 10:51 AM. |
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1 Week Ago | #14 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,583
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Wow Jeff! You are da man and good to know this. What can?t you do? Awesome.
Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 |
6 Days Ago | #15 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,704
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Quote:
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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1 Day Ago | #16 | |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Carterville Illinois
Posts: 850
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Quote:
When you turn the ignition on BUT don't start the car, you should hear the pumps in the tank priming. |
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1 Day Ago | #17 |
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 14
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
I was thinking that also. However I did just replace the BCM and for what I?ve been reading I have to get the ECM and BCM to communicate which unfortunately are not. I am getting ERR when jump 1&2. So in a nutshell, I think I have a short with the communication wires. I have a feeling I?m going to have to take the whole dash off to find this short or at the very least why it?s not communicating.
Jeff did a fantastic job reprogramming my BCM and my ECM is brand new with my original EPROM. As we speak I have the ABS module and that section in the back apart seeing if there is anything wrong with the wiring or modules. There is something electrically wrong because my old BCM had chips completely burnt up. Several of them. I have a 1966 427 I have that needs some love too so I am just trying to get the 90 Z in at least drivable condition just in case I need to bring her somewhere for another set of eyes to checkout. Unfortunately I am just a normal guy with a normal paycheck so whatever I can do myself is key. |
11 Hours Ago | #18 |
Join Date: Oct 2023
Location: Germany
Posts: 12
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Hey,
what makes you think that the ECM and CCM password exchange routine fails ? If the FEDS is failing (Fuel Enable System), so this password exchange between the modules, you should get a DTC 54. Security lamp and SYS will also flash. Is this the case ? DTC 41 may be set as well . If this safe communication fails, the fuel pumps are normally still getting primed but you will get no fuel injection so no start. Do you hear them running after ignition ? Refer to 8D-62 for more details (about DTC 54) and 8D-54 (about DTC 41) Do all the DIC classic bulbs light up after ignition before cranking ? (especially the SES light) If you want to check the communication wires (UART), no need to dismantle the whole dash at the moment. - Battery connected : check with a multimeter if you get 5V in the DLC (diagnostic) port at pin M, with ignition ON. To check the second UART wire, same procedure, it could be probed at the back of the ECM (D15 and D20), same expected voltage value around 5V with key in ignition position. That should help you check if you have a short to GND or 12V or something else. For an open wire issue, it would be better to disconnect the battery, the ECM harness and CCM harness as well and do a continuity test with your multimeter between the ECM harness and CCM harness connectors. You have to do this because two other modules (ABS, C68) are connected on this bus and they have all have (possibly) the capability to pull it to 5V, so you need to isolate the connection to these modules. Last edited by RSLyrick; 11 Hours Ago at 02:21 PM. |
6 Hours Ago | #19 |
Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 14
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Re: I think I?m in deep 💩
Brother that is some fantastic advice. And Yes, I have every single warning light Except the Check engine.
Next, when I turn the key to on, I have the vacuum pump intermittently buzzing and the fans go on I can?t hear the pumps but before this happened I had no problem with them so I don?t think they are an issue but they are cheap so I should just order a couple for the shelf. I did just order an ignition switch, waiting on that also. Security and system lights flash and the security light eventually goes off like normal which I was told is good because the Vats accepted the key. I do see a flashing SRS light that seems to be flashing a code I just don?t know how to read it accurately. For example- I count the flashes but how do I know when it?s finished with a specific code? Lastly, I know you are all going to scream at me for this, but I don?t have a 1990 Service book set yet. I just keep putting it off and try to look up everything online. I do have the factory LT5 service book. I also have a file with the full factory 1994 C4 dual book jailbroke so it?s transferable. I found it randomly online and scanned it for virus? and it?s safe (if anyone needs please shoot me over your email) and I have a digital 1990 C4 usb-drive also that is more for parts then troubleshooting. I?ll get the voltage numbers over tomorrow. I have a feeling they are all working correctly as from what you described should be working is. If in fact, it is the FEDS what is the procedure on fixing or replacing that? I have poor pressure in the rails and it just drips out when in check the valve on the end of the passenger side fuel rail. We are going back to Spring but the last time I drove the car the secondaries were not activating and the Check Engine light was sending me O2 sensor codes. (Both were replaced) and then my BCM started going bananas and the poltergeist started making random things happen which are now perfect with the new BCM Jeff reprogrammed. |
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