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#21 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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The 93-95 Z's do not benefit from the relay mod. Only the 90-92 MYs do.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#22 | |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,852
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90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold. |
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#23 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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Not trying to dig up a dead horse and beating it, BUT has DNS ever happened during cold weather?
Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Lou[COLOR="Red"][B][SIZE="4"][/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] |
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#24 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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I understand the Winter issues for batteries, and experienced the dreaded clicking or dimming of headlights, but never the Does Not Start after driving. There is a workaround for DNS as part of this thread. My thoughts are that DNS condition doesn?t happen in the Winter and only in the Summer. I was wondering if anyone on the Forum had the DNS in the Winter. In general, batteries last longer in the Northern climates versus the Southern climates. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Lou[COLOR="Red"][B][SIZE="4"][/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] |
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#25 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
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[B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B] |
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#26 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Fairfax, VA and Springfield, IL
Posts: 42
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#27 |
![]() Join Date: May 2022
Location: Georgia
Posts: 78
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If it were me I would first try to get someone to jump start it..
second I would let cool and also disconnect neg battery cable for a while till cool. reconnect and try starting, Third or second I would push start .. push roll the car and pop the clutch to start,with the ignition on ... and not turn the car off till at your destination other than that it could just be a bad starter or ..other issue.. |
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#28 |
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Northeast
Posts: 44
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#29 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Fairfax, VA and Springfield, IL
Posts: 42
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I have not but just posted and update to the thread I had started on this issue:
https://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.p...1&postcount=24 |
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#30 |
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Northeast
Posts: 44
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Update on my problem. A new starter put in by the dealer who sold me the car DID NOT fix the issue. Despite the clutch switch working, and not showing a resistance issue on the voltmeter, I decided to jumper it out anyway with some 12ga wire. Well I?ll be damned if that didn?t fix it. I ops tested it by getting the car hot and having the no start issue, and then putting in the jumper and it starts. Lesson is even if your clutch switch is good, it might still be bad. I will probably install a starter relay as a permanent fix. I did have the drive belt jump off or break while I was doing this, but luckily I was a mile from home. I?ll work on that this week?
Last edited by Tim555; 06-14-2024 at 05:00 PM. |
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