INFLREST; I've replaced front impact sensor 3 times

[WydGlydJim]

Once years ago; may have a had a bad ground still after that one; then once right before I sold it about 10 years ago, I replaced it again, and made sure it was grounded properly; then when I bought it back several months ago, it was on again, I replaced it with a NOS sensor, made dang sure ground was good, even ran a jumper ground to the battery ground located close by. Each time the light went out for a good long while, but came back on. I would say this last time, the light was out for at least a month........can't keep throwing sensors at it for $250 a pop........any ideas as to what could be causing premature failure, or just really unlucky? Codes always indicate left front sensor.

[Dynomite]

Post 65 - INFL REST grounds and Alternator Connector Boot

Post 299 - Infl Rest Inside The Car

[rufcar]

Mine indicated it was the right. Fixed that and it kept saying right. So I found a NOS unit but 1st I did the left one and the surrounding grounds. Took several attempts to clear but it did and I never used the NOS unit. It's been 6 months so far. I used the seat frame as the ground.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by WydGlydJim

Once years ago; may have a had a bad ground still after that one; then once right before I sold it about 10 years ago, I replaced it again, and made sure it was grounded properly; then when I bought it back several months ago, it was on again, I replaced it with a NOS sensor, made dang sure ground was good, even ran a jumper ground to the battery ground located close by. Each time the light went out for a good long while, but came back on. I would say this last time, the light was out for at least a month........can't keep throwing sensors at it for $250 a pop........any ideas as to what could be causing premature failure, or just really unlucky? Codes always indicate left front sensor.

How are you clearing the codes? I am asking unless you are using a Tech-1 and even with a Tech-1 with the correct adapter this is a bear of a code to clear. I had to repeat the procedure multiple times.

[WydGlydJim]

Update........so I could not bring myself to believe I had a problem at the sensor anymore, because it is NOS, and I was very careful with installation, paying close attention to grounding, etc........decided to go upstream to the connector inside at the driver's side kick panel. What I found was that when the connector was placed in the holder attached to the car, the wires that came in from the bottom became very taut, and were kinked pretty badly. moving forward on the premise that a badly kinked wire could cause a restriction or resistance with the flow of electricity, the same way a kinked hose causes a restriction in water flow, I pulled some more slack in the wires, and created a much bigger radius to the wire routing. Then I put some dielectric grease in the connection and Viola! light is out, and stayed out for a 15 minute drive. So I was skeptical I could have a problem there, but lesson learned, a resistance issue can occur not only at the sensor, but at the connector inside the car. I cleared the code with a grounding wire on the first try, because now I am an expert unfortunately. thanks for the links!

I think it may be fixed; so satisfying to have a clean DIC on a 75k miles car.

[rufcar]

congrats as that how I felt too!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by WydGlydJim

Update........decided to go upstream to the connector inside at the driver's side kick panel. I put some dielectric grease in the connection and Viola! light is out, and stayed out for a 15 minute drive. So I was skeptical......a resistance issue can occur not only at the sensor, but at the connector inside the car. I cleared the code with a grounding wire on the first try, because now I am an expert unfortunately. thanks for the links!

I think it may be fixed; so satisfying to have a clean DIC on a 75k miles car.

I suspect it was the connector itself inside the car that was disconnected and cleaned as I did once....If it were the restriction in the wires as in restriction in plumbing, the restricted wire would act like a fuse and burn open unlike a plumbing restriction that would just increase the velocity of the flow through the restriction if the flow were constant which would require increase in the line pressure to compensate for the increased head loss....

[mlipmd]

I also had the INFL REST indicator problem on my car (was on when I bought it), checked the codes, cleaned off both R and L sensor grounds, then the indicator light came on months later and I did it again (not hard but a PIA).The light persisted until I took apart and cleaned the yellow plug connector to the airbag under the driver side dash well under the carpet, as in Dynomite's post #2 above referencing #299 on the CF. One thing I have to add to that post - make sure you disconnect the battery before fussing with that connector as you don't want risking the airbag going off in your face. Also, as I keep saying on here, dialectric grease is an INSULATOR. If you want a good secure connection, use NO-OX-ID grease instead. I haven't had the light go on in maybe 3 years since I did that.
Those impact sensors have very rarely been known to fail and the problem is usually some grounding or electrical wiring problem instead.