Oil Cooler Line replacement

[Livin' in the 80's]

Originally Posted by billschroeder5842

You can use the bio degradable stuff on the belt- it really wont do anything to it. Spray it on with confidence and wash it off. The only surface area that wont get cleaned it where the pullies make contact--- which is comparatively small.

The Gunk is petroleum based and wont wash off that easy.

I took off the serpentine belt and washed the pulleys off with brake cleaner. Lightly cleaned the ac compressor clutch with brake clean and compressed air. I have let the Z drip dry of the oil since on my garage floor. The passenger tire is soaked on the inside and I will let the rest of the oil just fine its way south for a while and decide how to clean the rest. What a mess! There is a bulls eye on someone at ZIP at my house right now. Should I clean and keep the original serpentine belt? Would that matter to anyone in the future?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Livin' in the 80's

I took off the serpentine belt and washed the pulleys off with brake cleaner. Lightly cleaned the ac compressor clutch with brake clean and compressed air. I have let the Z drip dry of the oil since on my garage floor. The passenger tire is soaked on the inside and I will let the rest of the oil just fine its way south for a while and decide how to clean the rest. What a mess! There is a bulls eye on someone at ZIP at my house right now. Should I clean and keep the original serpentine belt? Would that matter to anyone in the future?

Sorry to hear about this. I can only imagine how you were/are with the quality of the Zip product.

I would recommend you get a new belt and toss the oil soaked one no matter how you clean it. For the price of the new belt just not worth in IMHO. Also recommend a Goodyear Gatorback belt if you can. Best wishes.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Sorry to hear about this. I can only imagine how you were/are with the quality of the Zip product.

I would recommend you get a new belt and toss the oil soaked one no matter how you clean it. For the price of the new belt just not worth in IMHO. Also recommend a Goodyear Gatorback belt if you can. Best wishes.

Good Advice on the belt!!!
Both replacing and the choice of Goodyear.

Also to original poster:
Do you know when it failed and under what conditions?
Acceleration?
High revs?
Cold engine/oil?
Simply unknown?

What is your oil pressure when cold after start up?
What failed on the hose that this one replaced?
Of course the hose should not have failed, but let's make sure that there is not more going on here other than a defective hose.
Just to be safe.

Marty

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Good Advice on the belt!!!

Both replacing and the choice of Goodyear.



:

Marty

Thanks for your thoughts Marty!


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[A26B]

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by A26B

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


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Well, there we go!
That settles that question.
Case closed.

Note to file:
Only order replacement lines from Jerry's.


Marty

[Livin' in the 80's]

Originally Posted by A26B

We used to carry the same oil cooler hose a few years back, but experienced too many failures, just like the ZIP hose. My analysis is defective hose and/or crimp. Oil gets under the outer rubber sheath, builds up a bubble that ruptures.
That's why we discontinued & switched to making our own using Edelbrock/Russell hose & fittings along with a single piece CNC billet adapter of our design.
I think the oil cooler hose from ZIP, and all the other Corvette parts suppliers, all have the same origin.


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Ordered your lines Jerry. Get them on the way please. Craig White in Southbury CT. Still haven't heard from ZIP - Emailed the President. The hose that was on it was only seeping at a crimp and the oil pressure was in normal operating area hot and cold. UGH!

[stuntmanmike]

Got Jerry's Gaskets kit, looks to be of very good quality.

Removed the old lines, and attempted to remove the adapter/fitting that's bolted to the oil filler area on the engine when it was cold, used another box wrench and all my strength to get leverage, which started to strip the fitting! I cursed, panicked a bit, thought about towing the car to a pro shop...went inside and re-read this thread.

I then put the old oil cooler lines back on, drove the car for a bit, got it hot. then took it all back apart. Engine warm, the fitting came right out with one wrench. Thanks guys




....

-----
OK, so first off I was super impressed with Jerry's Gaskets shipment of the oil cooler lines that they sent me. Awesome looking lines, parts all separated into their own bags with part numbers and sizes on them in the event that one got lost or ect. It even came with a printout of instructions including all the tools I would need, and photos to go along with it.

Says at the top, this should take 30 minutes if you have the right tools. Sweet!

It took me 6.5 hours.

Weekend#1 (3.5 hours) After letting the car sit for a few days (she isn't a DD) I started the process. All the hoses came off everything looked good, and I cleaned up as much oil as my hands could get to. Unfortunately he fittings going from the engine to the lines were absolutely stuck. Stuck like Hercules himself tightened the damn things to the engine block. After 3 trips to the store, not even a 1-1/8 DEEP socket and a 3' pipe along with a healthy dose of liquid wrench was enough torque to get the first one off. At this point I realized I was starting to deform the fittings instead of remove them. After calling Ted Dempsey and David Hetrick (who are both incredible whom you should shake hands with if you ever meet them) I played with it some more before giving up and putting the original parts back on. Car started up, leak was still where it always was. That was the good news.



Weekend #2 (yesterday, the next 3 hours). After talking to David and Ted, the thought process was that instead of doing the repair cold as Dynomite suggested; I needed to warm the engine up to temp and then do the repair. (This of course was preferential to using a torch to heat the parts). SO I started the car, let her warm up to temperature and then dove in. Again, the hoses came right off, and this time after again a significant effort the fittings to the engine did as well. VICTORY.

Well. Almost.

After the fittings came off, I followed the directions provided. Oiled the threads, little bit locktite and hand threaded them until tight then tightening with the wrench. The next step was to attach the longer of the two hoses to the bottom. One was about 1/2" longer than the other and after thoroughly making sure I had the correct one I attached it. Then the top.

This is where my next problem came into play. The hoses were probably about 1/2"-1" too long. I couldn't get the hoses to bend into place to where I could attach the adapter to the oil cooler. It didn't matter what I did. I took the hoses back off, re attached everything, re confirmed the length of the hoses. Didn't matter how hard I pushed or twisted.

So I did the unthinkable, I installed them in the reverse order. I put the gaskets in place, and ratcheted the adapter to the oil cooler. I then fed the hoses into the engine block requiring a coat hangar wrapped in duct tape to pull on the lines to keep them going straight into the block while I tightened the hoses. I was finally done.

I started the car.

She was dripping oil from the upper hose going into the oil cooler. I tightened it, took it for a quick drive and everything seemed fine. After cleaning up any oil that missed the oil pan or the cardboard under car I parked her again to notice she was still dripping oil. The engine was still close to temperature so I decided to wait until today when I knew it would be cold in good ol Indiana to tighten the bolts again.

Once the bolts were tightened, I then started her up. Not dripping a single drop. Backed her into the driveway, changed out the cardboard in the garage under the car, let her run for about 15 minutes and parked her again. No oil in the driveway. What a relief.


On a side note, Demps would be happy to know that while I was doing this I bumped a vacuum line. It fell apart. I put it all back together, tightened it and this solved my vacuum leak (well sort of). Instead of the pump running non stop it runs for about 3 seconds, stops for 15 seconds or so, then runs again for a few seconds, and continues on that way. Again, this is instead of running non stop so I'll take it as an ancillary victory.

Next up is the Injectors, but I think this weekend we'll take her out for a cruise instead of tearing her apart. Thanks again to Ted and David for the phone help! [/QUOTE]