Quick FX3 question

[32valvZ]

So I got the shocks today from Summit. They look correct except the top portion of the shock is flat where the grommet sits. The originals have a cup shape for the grommet to sit in. Should I be concerned? They seem to fit in place ok. Part Number is BSN-20-070007

[G8nightman]

Wrong shock non fx3


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[32valvZ]

Originally Posted by G8nightman

Wrong shock non fx3


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Well it has the gear on top just like my old ones. Am I missing something? The actuators went on there like the old ones as well....

I do have a SRC lite on now,,, dont know why though. I pulled the actuators off to check them and theyre not broken. I can spin the little gears by hand pretty easily....

[G8nightman]

O thought you said was flat on top so should be the right shock did you get the right year 93 to 95 is different


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[viper107]

All fx 3 shock years are the same

[32valvZ]

Originally Posted by viper107

All fx 3 shock years are the same

No, theres early and late ones. I have the right ones.

[32valvZ]

Originally Posted by G8nightman

O thought you said was flat on top so should be the right shock did you get the right year 93 to 95 is different


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I looked it up on Summit and crossed it with the ones an AJ-USA, I think it is.... they position the dash in a different position, but the number is the same.

The yellow top part of the shock is what I was talking about.... BUT, it all went together ok, so Im not going to worry about that part of it...

I apparently have much bigger problems because I used the ALDL tester (Dynomites I believe) with the little colored buttons on it which came with the car and it shows I have ALL the code numbers...how is that possible? I never touched the rears and its giving codes for the front and rears. Literally all the codes flashed!!!

12,13,14,21,22,23,41,42,43,34,33,32,& 31!!!

How is that even possible?

**EDIT**

I never had a light on before for the SRC. I only replaced the front shocks due to being 30 years old.

Since replacing only the front shocks today, the SRC light is now on with all those codes... When all the work was complete, there was no light. After driving a short distance down the road, the SRC light lit. During all the work, I never turned the key on once.

[viper107]

Originally Posted by 32valvZ

No, theres early and late ones. I have the right ones.

ok il clear that up, 89 to 91 work a little differant, but all should plug and play, unplg those parts and make shure a pin isnt damaged, or just bad connection(redo plug connections)

[32valvZ]

Update**

Cleared the codes. Removed the actuators, turned the gears full clockwise to their stops, and reinstalled actuators. When I turned the key back on, I got only the code 12. Cant test drive now, but will try it out later and see if the light comes back. Fingers crossed!

I used this method of Marc Haibecs
Click to view an ALDL Connector Diagram

To access ECM error codes: Have the engine ignition key off. For '90 - '93 cars, connect pin A to B. For '94 - '95 cars, connect pin 4 to 6. A paper clip works well as a jumper wire. Turn the ignition key on but don't start the engine. The Service Engine Soon lamp will flash with the code number. Count the blinks. The first code is always a 12. This confirms that the diagnostic system is working. Count one blink with a short delay and then two blinks for a 12. The 12 code will flash three times. The next code is the first error code. It will also flash three times. Record all of the codes until the 12 is flashed again. That means that all of the codes have been flashed and that the system has looped to the beginning of the list. The codes will be displayed in numerical order, not in order of occurrence. To clear the stored codes disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds.

To access CCM error codes: Have the engine ignition key off. For '90 - '93 cars, connect pin A to G. For '94 - '95 cars connect pin 4 to 12. A paper clip works well as a jumper wire. Turn the ignition key on but don't start the engine. The codes will be displayed on the speedometer display. Refer to the service manual section 8D for extensive decoding and diagnostic information. The CCM is mode 1. The ECM is mode 4. Mode 4 normally displays ERR on '93 - '95 ZR-1's.

To access FX3 Selective Ride shock absorber error codes: Have the engine ignition key off. For '90 - '93 cars, connect pin A to C. For '94 - '95 cars connect pin 3 to 4. A paper clip works well as a jumper wire. Turn the ignition key on but don't start the engine. The Service Ride Control lamp will flash the code number. Count the blinks. The first code is always a 12. This confirms that the diagnostic system is working. Count one blink with a short delay and then two blinks for a 12. The 12 code will flash three times. The next code is the first error code. It will also flash three times. Record all of the codes until the 12 is flashed again. That means that all of the codes have been flashed and that the system has looped to the beginning of the list. The codes will be displayed in numerical order, not in order of occurrence.

To clear the stored codes plug the jumper in for two seconds and remove it for two seconds, do the cycle two more times, for a total of three cycles, leaving the jumper in at the end. If successful the lamp will stop blinking and remain on. The timing is critical for success. It may help to connect a switch to two wires and use the switch in conjunction with a clock to aid in timing the cycles.

There is a bug in the error logging software. If an error code is present for many many ignition on cycles. The system will list all possible error codes. If this happens, clear the codes. Then turn the ignition on. The code or codes set after one ignition cycle will be valid.


Note that the Service Ride Control light will stay on if the ignition is turned on three times and the car is not driven. A code 23 speedometer error will set. The light will go out and the code will clear automatically once the car is driven 3 mph.

[32valvZ]

Welp, following the post I found about turning the gear clockwise to the stop, then reinstalling the actuator as well as clearing the codes seemed to have worked, so far (knock on wood)... Drove it about 20 miles... I hope that pesky light stays off now...