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#11 | |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CenCoast California
Posts: 899
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If you're a serious trackrat with your ZR1, I'd be looking for something a bit more substantial in the front. It may cost more but the return on investment will be greater. You, also, need to add front brake ducts. As for drilled/slotted rotors, today, drilled rotors are just for looks. The vast majority of modern brake pads do not have trouble with outgassing, which drilled rotors were invented to address. Also, all those holes decrease the brake disc's heat sinking and, unless the drilling is done right, they also can cause cracking. Slotted rotors are a better choice. Lastly, in re: your second post, about finding a leak in the system. Before I'd sink time and money in to a C5 brake upgrade, I'd bleed the system, stick '96 GS front calipers on the car (a bolt-on), add some brake ducts in front and go track test. Depending on how you are on brakes during tracking, you could find just having no leaks, GS calipers and better front brake cooling is adequate enough for the tracking you do.
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Hib Halverson Technical Writer former owner 95 VIN 0140 current owner 19 VIN 1878 Last edited by Hib Halverson; 12-16-2019 at 07:59 PM. |
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#12 | |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 384
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Regards Glen Sent from my SM-G973F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
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#13 | |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: waxhaw, nc
Posts: 89
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The Z is not my primary track car, but at this point the track is where I drive it most, primarily due to the installed 1 piece seats and 6 pt harnesses.(does that even make sense?) I agree that the c5 calipers would be a modest upgrade at best, but since they would be free and I needed new pads anyway, the only extra cost/work would be a $150 adaptor plate and new rotors. I totally agree with you regarding drilled/slotted rotors. At this point they are pretty much just for looks and eating brake pads while wearing out faster... Since I first posted, I ordered a new set (front and rear) of Hawk DTC-70 pads, and a replacement j55 caliper from Autozone. The caliper arrived in 48 hrs, but the Pads took about a week to arrive(yesterday). I had decided to wait for the pads to arrive to install the new caliper and pads at the same time. After waiting patiently for the pads to arrive, I went out after work yesterday and despite the caliper box from Autozone having the correct part # on it, inside was a jl9 caliper, which obviously didn't fit around the installed rotor. So now I am back to square one. Upon close inspection of the banjo bolt, I can see the threads are worn, I can slide it a good 1/4 inch into the caliper without turning it, and it won't hold any torque at any depth. A replacement bolt seems to "bite", but I am concerned about the internal threads on the caliper so I don't want to just change bolts and hope for the best. About an hour ago I ordered the correct m10-1.0 thread tap. When it arrives I'll try to revive the threads on the caliper, and if it feels good, I'm going to run with it(and maybe some Loctite). If I mess it up worse, I'll just order another caliper and hope they send the right one this time. Since the c5 calipers are free, and the effort/cost to install them seems minimal, I'll probably do the swap next time I need front pads. I'll definitely thoroughly bleed the system once I'm satisfied with the components.(I always do before every track day in any car...) I've really struggled getting this car to be driveable on track. I'm really close, and think it will be pretty darn quick once I get it 100% sorted... Thanks for your advice, (and giving me a reason to tell my caliper story!) Curt |
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#14 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 72
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I'd like to make my primary zr1 the track car but it was all over the place and im not sure if it was the extra weight or the old tires or the alignment. what have you done to get to your z so close to be a monster on the track? do you have a thread that shares what you have done? Merry Christmas!
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--------------- VikingTrad3r Calgary, Canada 1991 ZR1 # 888 - daily drive whenever possible 1991 ZR1 engine from unknown sn. 1990 Z51 zf6 being built into narrow body ZR1 racer 1987 z52 auto - sold 1986 'z31' 4+3 - sold 1985 Z51 auto - sold |
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#15 | |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: waxhaw, nc
Posts: 89
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The car already had the Lingenfelter 368 package so power was never an issue. I started with seats and harnesses, a 3.73 rear, and had it sent up to Marc Haibeck for a thorough mechanical sorting and a new tune. Then the Master Cylinder failed on it's maiden run(spoiler: I put it in a tire wall), so I replaced the master, installed the DRM bias spring, and replaced all 4 calipers. Hawk DTC-70 pads all around, and motul 660 fluid. (In addition to substantial front end body work). Next time out it was still virtually undriveable, so I had it aligned. Turns out it was way off. 3rd try, it was much better but still really loose, so I bought better rear tires from a member here (RussMcb). 4th try, Finally the car handled great, but the leaky front caliper described in this thread caused poor braking performance that deteriorated throughout the day. - New caliper should be here tomorrow... I'm a regular Track Rat, but have a few cars I track much more frequently, so it's taken me a while to get to this point... Here are a couple threads I made with more detail, and some great advice from others: (in chronological order) http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29988 http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30024 http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30535 http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30741 Merry Xmas!!! Curt Last edited by cbaclawski; 12-25-2019 at 12:50 PM. Reason: additional info |
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