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09-23-2017
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#1 |
 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 115
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Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
I'm rebuilding the rear suspension on my '91 for autocross. DRM trailing link bracket and camber links, VBP toe links, Prothane bushings throughout. Lowering car 1/2" front and rear. Installation this weekend.
Denny's Driveshafts has packaged Spicer1310/1350 u-joints and straps/bolts into a kit for $180. Quick service and received what was advertised. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p423...0x_4_3_70.html See pics. Tony-Tnova |
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09-23-2017
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#2 |
 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 1,160
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
Looking good!
__________________
Russ McBride, [COLOR="Red"]Car Sold 8/2020[/COLOR] #1635, Marietta, GA USA, 1991 ZR-1, #766 (bought 1/1/2015) MS3-Pro, OBX, SW X-Pipe, Borla, Hurst, SLP, Goodyear F1 GS-D3, Kenwood. HOTB 2016Q3 [IMG]http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=316&pictureid=2873[/IMG] [IMG]http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=2985[/IMG] |
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09-23-2017
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#3 |
 Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
How long have you had the DRM parts? Have you done a "trial fit" of the trailing arm brackets to the chassis? I seem to recall issues with brackets to frame rails in the past. DRM corrected the fabrication I believe but if yours are older you might want to be aware.
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09-24-2017
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#4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 115
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
I bought the DRM parts in the past year or so as part of the discount the Registry arranged. The brackets fit perfectly. As for the VBP toe rod to differential cover bracket, that is another story. Pics and fix to follow.
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09-24-2017
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 115
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
The VBP "toe rod" bracket didn't fit. From picture 1, you can see the misalignment between the bracket and the differential cover. In picture 2 it's obvious the bracket bends are not 90 degrees. I suspect that when bending the bracket they didn't get the angle right or they didn't weld and cool (both are required) the seam weld and the gusset weld with the bracket in a jig. When the welds cooled, the metal shrank. The fix was to cut the welds with a die grinder and cutoff wheel, picture 3; bend the metal back to 90 degree angles (very big hammer), reweld the seam and gusset, and then quickly mounting the still hot bracket onto the differential cover so it acted as a jig, picture 4, as the welds cooled. Half later, two hours of drying new paint, and the bracket now fits, picture 5. It was disappointing to have to do this but I waited for weeks to get the toe rods, am under a time crunch to get the car off the jack stands in my driveway, and wasn't sure I won't get back the same problem if I returned it.
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09-24-2017
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
Quote:
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09-24-2017
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#7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 115
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
Unfortunately I did not. There are other sets out there but I wanted the lubricated heim joints and that was VBP.
If you think this is disappointing, the bump steer correcting front tire rod ends from Zip are a disaster. The threaded bodies are too long and the tapered fitting won't go in far enough into the knuckle to even tightened the nut down to the cotter pin hole. I can't believe I'm the only one with these issues but I haven't found similar discussions on any of the Vette forums. Hopefully this will prevent others from these problems. |
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09-24-2017
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: US
Posts: 233
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Re: Rear Suspension for Autocross/New U-joints
Very bad stuff to hear, when a person pays a bunch of money for parts they should expect quality.
Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
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