02-07-2017 | #1 |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southlake, TX
Posts: 599
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Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
Well, It looks like my 91 #1388 is doing it again and I'll need to replace the water pump at some point soon.
The seeping is undeniable- small but undeniable. I can only imagine what will happen when I pressure up the system when I finish the oil hose in the next day or so. I'm imagining gushes of green coolant combined with a pit in my stomach. So, how hard is it to replace the water pump? I looked at the shop manual and it look somewhat doable. I looked at the car and if the air inlet is removed along with the front coolant hoses it looks like there is enough room for a hand for some some wrenching. That damn lower radiator hose looks menacing though..... I've never messed with a serpentine belt (I'm a recovering C3 XFire guy) so the tensionor has made me timid asthe FSM says "flip this and that". Any guesses on how many hours it would take a somewhat handy guy with a shop manual and healthy dose of anxiety? I just swapped out the radiator last week and now have moved on to the oil cooler line, following a remount of the INFL REST senors on the frame and a recent complete Bose/EDM and amp swap. I'm calculating my last months "drive to repair expense ratio" at about $137 per mile. As Rosanne Rosanna Dana would say (quoting Mr Richard Fader from Ft Lee, New Jersey), "If it isn't one thing, it's another"
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Bill Schroeder Texas Proud! 1991 Corvette ZR1 #1388 2015 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker |
02-08-2017 | #2 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,188
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
If it makes you feel better here is a brief list of repairs on my 05 SL600 just purchased last year with 51K miles
*ABC hose failure: $180 hose (my labor) *Rim Cracked: $240 *2 new rear tires $800 *Radiator Failure $300 ( My labor) *Left and right coil pack failure (1500) My labor *Replace 24 Spark plugs *Trunk latch rebuild (my labor) *ABC junction rebuild ($35 and my labor) *Windscreen rebuild(50 my labor) That's on 1500 miles of driving
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
02-08-2017 | #3 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,801
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
The serp belt goes easily enough, you just need to find a tool that fits it with enough length (but not too much).
I think used cars just react to either having not been driven in ages, or from a different style of driving that comes with the new owner. |
02-08-2017 | #4 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 116
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
I did a water pump replacement this past fall. Time wise it's containable to a weekend (mostly Saturday, maybe some spill over to Sunday).
Hardest part is the hoses, and it's pretty tight in there. Also be sure to keep track of which water pump bolt came from where, there is an assortment of lengths and sizes on the pump. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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1991 ZR-1 #1438 Black/Black & Red |
02-08-2017 | #5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,147
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
Serp belt is easy. Just insert a 1/2 inch breaker bar into the square notch on the back side of the tensioner and pull towards the passenger fender. This releases the tension and allows you to remove the belt. Doing this with the air horn out of the way makes the process easier. A trick I learned it place your new water pump on your bench and as you pull the water pump bolts to place the bolts after cleaning them into the correct position holes on the new pump. Once the old pump is out replace them and then pull them one at a time as you start installing the new pump. There are many bolts of different sizes and lengths so this is a pretty good memory technique
Make sure you loosen the bolts on the Water pump pulley while the tensioner is still in normal operating position first. You will need to remove the radiator shroud to free up room in the front of the motor to do the repair. If you car still has the corban style radiator clamps I suggest getting a corban ring style puller. I also suggest now that you are there you change all the hoses and the serp belt just so you know its all good.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 02-08-2017 at 12:07 PM. |
02-08-2017 | #6 | |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southlake, TX
Posts: 599
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
Quote:
Hoses will not give me any big issues as I just put on a set of Jerry's silicone last weekend and aligned the spring clamps; they should slide off without too much persuasion. The airhorn removal (as suggested in the FSM) looks like it makes sense and will make it easier. I'll have to do more reading o the tensioner- looks like it needs to come off? Ok, confidence is growing.... thanks for the hints. I'll have a better feel for the magnitude of the leaking once the oil cooler hose is attached and I start her up.
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Bill Schroeder Texas Proud! 1991 Corvette ZR1 #1388 2015 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker |
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02-08-2017 | #7 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 116
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
The tensioner does have to come off, it's attached with one 18mm or 19mm (I think?) hex bolt, I used a ratcheting box wrench which gave me enough clearance to get in there.
Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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1991 ZR-1 #1438 Black/Black & Red |
02-08-2017 | #8 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,147
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
Quote:
The tensioner does need to come off however once the tension is released that is very easy to do (Single bolt). Take a picture of its orientation to the motor before removal. This will give you the visual clue to how the back side aligns in the back notch when you reinstall it. Did you get the stainless clamps for the silicone hoses? I recommend those highly over the OEM corban style for the silicone hoses. Jerry sells those as well
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 02-08-2017 at 12:14 PM. |
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02-08-2017 | #9 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,147
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
Bill I feel your frustration. keep in mind you have a 26 year old car and now your sorting it all out maintenance wise.
My water pump failed on my 91 in June or July In Phoenix. I was not a happy camper. At least when you done maintenance wise all these areas will be sorted out and you can enjoy the car. We have all been there. And... we feel your pain.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
02-08-2017 | #10 |
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 1,159
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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
I agree. I bought my ZR-1 in January, 2015, had to work on it for a few months but it's been dead reliable for almost two years, requiring nothing. It's a great car, well built.
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