Suspension Troubleshooting - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Billy Mild · 06-02-2016

I am still working through 1 code for the Service Ride Control. I got code 14 a while back. About 3 days ago I put my new Marc Haibeck tuned chip in and left the battery unhooked for several days. During this process I decided to swap the actuators from side to side up front. I hooked up the battery and started the car and the SRC light was back on. I pulled the codes and it was code 12, 14, 23, 12. So code 14 still remained around. I followed the clearing codes procedure, with no luck.

Does this point to a bad shock, or something else?

GOLDCYLON · 06-03-2016

A 14 means your right front shock is timing out. Pull the actuator to see if it's cracked.

http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html

WVZR-1 · 06-03-2016

I mentioned in the other forum that you needed to clear all codes before swapping (or I mentioned I would have). You still need to clear. Here you mention clearing the codes. Are you sure you've done this correctly? You mentioned in the other forum you had Cliff's device and I mentioned knowing NOTHING about it.

With your situation I'd use the procedure in the FSM to clear the codes. The diagnostic retrieval and clearing procedure is very well documented in 8A-43.

I might consider clearing the codes, driving the car for an extended period and if you felt the actuating mechanisms are installed and orientated correctly exercise the SRC. Do the diagnostics again!! I suggest the drive as then on the recheck the 23 should go away I'd think for sure OR you do have a VSS issue with SRC.

Chart #1 diagnostics should answer all questions regarding the DTC 14.

Billy Mild · 06-03-2016

I tried to clear the codes. Thats the issue I am having. I don't know if the code is actually cleared, or if there is still a problem present that isn't dependent on the Actuator.

Actuator doesn't have any broken gears and last I checked spins when key is cycled in the car. I will take a look at the FSM on this and see what I come up with.

Billy Mild · 06-05-2016

I re-ran the tests in the service manual. I get proper voltage at the terminals. All 5.0 or very close to it. Also the actuator does cycle when the key it turned on.

I compared the amount of effort it takes to move the shock gear on both front shocks and they are about the same. What started this was ai replaced a shock gear on the Right shock over a year ago. I had a friend with a Tech 1 clear the code after replacement. Then it came on late last year. The only difference between the left and right shock is I replaced the gear on the right shock. Also the aftermarket gears look to be beveled a bit on the top of the gear.

Billy Mild · 06-18-2016

I wanted to update this thread. I have tried to clear the code with 0 success. I made sure that the gear in the actuator and on the shock have a good contact pattern. I confirmed this with a little paint.

I have confirmed that when the key is cycled the actuator moves both ways.

I drove the car to Table Rock lake last weekend. On the entire ride down there the light was on, and Code 14 was present. 3 days later when my wife and I go to leave, light was on for 100 feet and shut off. It was off for maybe 15 minutes until I started going highway speeds. This is when the light went back on. I checked it at our next stop and code 14 popped up again.

After the light comes on then it stays on the rest of the day. I have noticed that usually in the morning when I first start the car, the SRC light is on, but after pulling out of the driveway it will go off and FX-3 works again. As soon as I get on the highway it pops on. Sometimes it does go back on before getting on the highway.

I have following the troubleshooting that is in the FSM. I checked all terminals and they pin out great on the car harness side. Could the actuator just be flaky? Will a rebuild fix that?

This is 1 of 2 issues I have on my car and would like to get this fixed once and for all.

secondchance · 06-18-2016

Have you checked the condition of rubber bushings (upper and lower) on top of the shock below the FX3 cup? I kept tripping code 14 and turned out the bushing was semi-crushed allowing the gear to get jammed into the actuator during suspension compression.

Billy Mild · 06-19-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by secondchance

Have you checked the condition of rubber bushings (upper and lower) on top of the shock below the FX3 cup? I kept tripping code 14 and turned out the bushing was semi-crushed allowing the gear to get jammed into the actuator during suspension compression.

The bushing seems to in great shape actually. How did you come up with this solution?

RussMcB · 06-20-2016

This is not fresh in my mind (it was from last year), but I seem to remember noticing the height of the gear teeth varies by how much you tighten the top nut (i.e., how much you crush the bushings). It took some measuring to make sure they were well meshed.

I'm not an FX-3 expert, so take this little bit of info with a grain of salt.

secondchance · 06-20-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

The bushing seems to in great shape actually. How did you come up with this solution?

I kept getting code 14 and yet actuator and planetary gear in the actuator looked fine. Eventually I noticed top bushing was squished under the washer/cup. This led me to suspect that the actuator gear was moving up and down excessively during compression/rebound perhaps to a point of binding or disengaging. Replaced the top bushings only (both left and right) with urethane bushing and SRC started to work fine without tripping the code.

06-03-2016	#2
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting A 14 means your right front shock is timing out. Pull the actuator to see if it's cracked. http://www.captainzcnc.com/id2.html __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 06-03-2016 at 02:03 AM.

06-03-2016	#3
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,890	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting I mentioned in the other forum that you needed to clear all codes before swapping (or I mentioned I would have). You still need to clear. Here you mention clearing the codes. Are you sure you've done this correctly? You mentioned in the other forum you had Cliff's device and I mentioned knowing NOTHING about it. With your situation I'd use the procedure in the FSM to clear the codes. The diagnostic retrieval and clearing procedure is very well documented in 8A-43. I might consider clearing the codes, driving the car for an extended period and if you felt the actuating mechanisms are installed and orientated correctly exercise the SRC. Do the diagnostics again!! I suggest the drive as then on the recheck the 23 should go away I'd think for sure OR you do have a VSS issue with SRC. Chart #1 diagnostics should answer all questions regarding the DTC 14. Last edited by WVZR-1; 06-03-2016 at 09:17 AM.

06-03-2016	#4
Billy Mild Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 838	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting I tried to clear the codes. Thats the issue I am having. I don't know if the code is actually cleared, or if there is still a problem present that isn't dependent on the Actuator. Actuator doesn't have any broken gears and last I checked spins when key is cycled in the car. I will take a look at the FSM on this and see what I come up with. __________________ Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration

06-05-2016	#5
Billy Mild Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 838	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting I re-ran the tests in the service manual. I get proper voltage at the terminals. All 5.0 or very close to it. Also the actuator does cycle when the key it turned on. I compared the amount of effort it takes to move the shock gear on both front shocks and they are about the same. What started this was ai replaced a shock gear on the Right shock over a year ago. I had a friend with a Tech 1 clear the code after replacement. Then it came on late last year. The only difference between the left and right shock is I replaced the gear on the right shock. Also the aftermarket gears look to be beveled a bit on the top of the gear. __________________ Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration

06-18-2016	#6
Billy Mild Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 838	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting I wanted to update this thread. I have tried to clear the code with 0 success. I made sure that the gear in the actuator and on the shock have a good contact pattern. I confirmed this with a little paint. I have confirmed that when the key is cycled the actuator moves both ways. I drove the car to Table Rock lake last weekend. On the entire ride down there the light was on, and Code 14 was present. 3 days later when my wife and I go to leave, light was on for 100 feet and shut off. It was off for maybe 15 minutes until I started going highway speeds. This is when the light went back on. I checked it at our next stop and code 14 popped up again. After the light comes on then it stays on the rest of the day. I have noticed that usually in the morning when I first start the car, the SRC light is on, but after pulling out of the driveway it will go off and FX-3 works again. As soon as I get on the highway it pops on. Sometimes it does go back on before getting on the highway. I have following the troubleshooting that is in the FSM. I checked all terminals and they pin out great on the car harness side. Could the actuator just be flaky? Will a rebuild fix that? This is 1 of 2 issues I have on my car and would like to get this fixed once and for all. __________________ Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration

06-02-2016	#1
Billy Mild Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 838	Suspension Troubleshooting I am still working through 1 code for the Service Ride Control. I got code 14 a while back. About 3 days ago I put my new Marc Haibeck tuned chip in and left the battery unhooked for several days. During this process I decided to swap the actuators from side to side up front. I hooked up the battery and started the car and the SRC light was back on. I pulled the codes and it was code 12, 14, 23, 12. So code 14 still remained around. I followed the clearing codes procedure, with no luck. Does this point to a bad shock, or something else? __________________ Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration

06-18-2016	#7
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,723	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting Have you checked the condition of rubber bushings (upper and lower) on top of the shock below the FX3 cup? I kept tripping code 14 and turned out the bushing was semi-crushed allowing the gear to get jammed into the actuator during suspension compression.

06-20-2016	#9
RussMcB Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Marietta, GA USA Posts: 1,160	Re: Suspension Troubleshooting This is not fresh in my mind (it was from last year), but I seem to remember noticing the height of the gear teeth varies by how much you tighten the top nut (i.e., how much you crush the bushings). It took some measuring to make sure they were well meshed. I'm not an FX-3 expert, so take this little bit of info with a grain of salt.