Clutch/Throw out Bearing/Pilot Bearing Noise???

[WVZR-1]

Whatever you do DO NOT let someone convince you to do the "GREASE PACKING" method.

A friend has this for his "KNOCKER:.

pilotbearingtool2a-l.jpg

His is NOT this HARBOR FREIGHT device and he'd likely kick my A$$ if he knew I even mentioned Harbor Freight - he buys the best or just doesn't have it. There ain't much he ain't got ..

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html

*** A larger equipment like commercial mower maintenance shop would likely have or a very good tool rental place. Take your "knocker" with you and maybe you can find one that fits yours.

[Racinfan83]

Will look at that today. Thank You!

[Paul Workman]

I pulled mine with the tool they rent out at AutoZone. I don't recall the brand name, but it looks to be basically the same collet type as the one pictured in the Harbor Freight add. (I've used them or one like it many times; no issues yet!)

And, with the AZ puller, the insertion tool is also included. I've done this several times now - I'd rather own new tools than borrow a perhaps well-used or even damaged tool.

AZ will let you borrow their tool with a security deposit should you keep the tool. But, if you let them know in advance you would like to keep the tool, they may be able to get you a new one that you keep for the cost of the security deposit.

[Racinfan83]

UPDATE: I sent the Pressure Plate and Throwout Bearing to Jim Jandik at Powertorque last week just for him to check out. The PP and Flywheel had basically no wear on them, so I just cleaned up the FW with some Scotchbrite, he had the PP cleaned up and inspected my TO bearing. The ONLY issue he found was that a few of the steel fingers on the PP had wear only on about half of the finger instead of all the way across. Apparently whoever bolted it on at the factory did a crappy job, or they were warped a bit on the new PP. He told me that since there was SOME contact on each finger, and since my overall clutch wear was "barely broken in" - that I would be ok reinstalling everything. As I don't thrash the car I agree. I will be reinstalling as soon as I get it back, as my time permits, hopefully this week. The only thing in the whole system that he thought was suspect for my noise was the amount of copper/gold coloring on the input shaft where the pilot bushing rode - suggesting it galded the bushing a bit.

[Racinfan83]

UPDATE: She runs again!!! Got it all back together and took it for about a 10 mile cruise last night. Very smooth, no noise, and I think that some or all of the vibration issues I've had since getting the car may be gone. I still have the old "hibernation tires" on it - but it seemed to have much less vibration at speed on the highway. Will have to get my good tires swapped onto it and test that further. I'm just happy I was able to undertake this large project myself and actually get it done.

Notes from my "newbie learning curve" - to hopefully save anyone thinking of doing a trans/clutch r&r from my mistakes:
There is a flywheel protection plate on the front of the bellhousing. 3 8mm bolts. Take this off before trying to remove bellhousing from block. Also put it back on before you bolt bellhousing TO block.

Reinstall exhaust hanger assembly to trans BEFORE installing exhaust.

When using the 3M Window Weld on the C Beam contact surfaces - you will need a large supply of latex gloves. If you do happen to get any of that on you - nail polish remover will take it off when it's still wet.

YES I did get and install Bill Boudreaus C-Beam plates. Worth every penny.

I could not get the C Beam back in place with the driveshaft in the car. So save yourself trouble and just leave it out til you get C Beam in there.

I also drilled the diff and installed the drain plug. Another easy project that is a must on these cars. Cost me a total of like $10 for plug and tap. Had drill bit already. Filling the diff afterward is a pain in the ### though. Be prepared..

And a set of metric "Gear Wrenches" is almost a MUST. Along with 3/8" drive extensions enough to go about 16", and a u-joint. I had all that already - but if you don't - buy or borrow em.

I removed and reinstalled trans by myself with my big floor jack. Not for someone who isn't fairly large and fit however. That sucker is heavy...

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

UPDATE: She runs again!!! Got it all back together and took it for about a 10 mile cruise last night. Very smooth, no noise, and I think that some or all of the vibration issues I've had since getting the car may be gone. I still have the old "hibernation tires" on it - but it seemed to have much less vibration at speed on the highway. Will have to get my good tires swapped onto it and test that further. I'm just happy I was able to undertake this large project myself and actually get it done.

Notes from my "newbie learning curve" - to hopefully save anyone thinking of doing a trans/clutch r&r from my mistakes:
There is a flywheel protection plate on the front of the bellhousing. 3 8mm bolts. Take this off before trying to remove bellhousing from block. Also put it back on before you bolt bellhousing TO block.

Reinstall exhaust hanger assembly to trans BEFORE installing exhaust.

When using the 3M Window Weld on the C Beam contact surfaces - you will need a large supply of latex gloves. If you do happen to get any of that on you - nail polish remover will take it off when it's still wet.

YES I did get and install Bill Boudreaus C-Beam plates. Worth every penny.

I could not get the C Beam back in place with the driveshaft in the car. So save yourself trouble and just leave it out til you get C Beam in there.

I also drilled the diff and installed the drain plug. Another easy project that is a must on these cars. Cost me a total of like $10 for plug and tap. Had drill bit already. Filling the diff afterward is a pain in the ### though. Be prepared..

And a set of metric "Gear Wrenches" is almost a MUST. Along with 3/8" drive extensions enough to go about 16", and a u-joint. I had all that already - but if you don't - buy or borrow em.

I removed and reinstalled trans by myself with my big floor jack. Not for someone who isn't fairly large and fit however. That sucker is heavy...

Congratz on the success of a big, solo DIY job!

FYI, I too use a big (2-1/2 ton capacity) hydraulic floor jack, and balance the trans on the jack's cup, per Bill Boudreau's suggestion. Also, I use a bottle jack with a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan to assist with adjusting the angle of the motor and too the angle of the differential/C-beam alignment. removing the trans is not that bad with the right tools. (Now a lift!? That would be the way, but I'm po, so no lift at my house!)

[Racinfan83]

Lift would be nice if you had the tranny jack to go with it. But tranny came out and went back in pretty easy with the "18" off the floor on jack stands" method. To be quite honest - I had more trouble and spent as much time getting the exhaust off and back on as I did with the whole rest of the project. Sounds crazy - but that thing fought me every step of the way. For various reasons.
I used a small aluminum floor jack with a 1x4 on it to support the back of the motor and raising/lowering to get C Beam in and out, and my big 3 ton floor jack for trans....