Cannot clear SIR lights (seat belt and INFL REST)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Okay, I'm ready to revisit this gremlin in my Z. I have the car running the best ever but now trying to get rid of those small, annoying things that have been bothering me.

My next step is the check the connectors as Tyler and have stated inside under the carpet, but the biggest question I have is why no codes can be pulled?

Using both of Gordon's diagnostics tool set of the the plugs and the actual tool with the disable switch, not only no codes, but nothing will clear the codes either. I can understand not being able to clear if you still have a problem, but nothing works to get any of the SIR codes so is that a toasted DERM? I can't find any info about no being able to pull codes at all. There one one other person two years ago on the other forum so I brought that one back to life and that guy had a bad derm, replaced it and later got the same problem.

Not only are those DERMS hard to find, but very expensive too and I see why some will pull bulbs instead. I am not the bulb pulling type and don't know I ever will be.

As stated initially all I get is a single flash and nothing else. I can pull codes for anything and everything else, but not the S.I.R. As for the external clean up and dielectric grease has all been done even a second time.

Thanks!

Craig

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Okay, I'm ready to revisit this gremlin in my Z. I have the car running the best ever but now trying to get rid of those small, annoying things that have been bothering me.

My next step is the check the connectors as Tyler and have stated inside under the carpet, but the biggest question I have is why no codes can be pulled?

Using both of Gordon's diagnostics tool set of the the plugs and the actual tool with the disable switch, not only no codes, but nothing will clear the codes either. I can understand not being able to clear if you still have a problem, but nothing works to get any of the SIR codes so is that a toasted DERM? I can't find any info about no being able to pull codes at all. There one one other person two years ago on the other forum so I brought that one back to life and that guy had a bad derm, replaced it and later got the same problem.

Not only are those DERMS hard to find, but very expensive too and I see why some will pull bulbs instead. I am not the bulb pulling type and don't know I ever will be.

As stated initially all I get is a single flash and nothing else. I can pull codes for anything and everything else, but not the S.I.R. As for the external clean up and dielectric grease has all been done even a second time.

Thanks!

Craig

I believe in a situation where I couldn't get conventional diagnostics and clearing devices to do their chore I'd try this. There's a 2 wire connector at the steering column base that goes up the column to the coil and bag. At the harness end to the DERM I'd use a 2 Ohm resistor to replicate the air-bag. I don't know that there are codes for coil errors or anything else related to the column. See what you get with the resistor instead of the air-bag connected.

A 2 Ohm resistor is hard to find but if there's someone that does air-bag resetting or custom interior work they will have a bag full of them. I believe air-bag guys buy them by the 100's.

The connector at the base of the column is very accessible. Maybe this connector is loose?

You could also do this. Use a known bad DERM connect it and see if it displays code 12 and then the codes 52 & 53 and then 12. You can use a DERM and access all of the connectors with out disturbing the install of the original DERM. The cables are long enough to reach the two connectors on the right side and also the two on the left side.

If you get packages sent to you regularly I've got a bad DERM that I know displays correct codes. It would seem a very simple diagnostic device.

I've just removed the CCM from my '90 and I could send a snapshot of the connectors that I mention. They're very accessible.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

I believe in a situation where I couldn't get conventional diagnostics and clearing devices to do their chore I'd try this. There's a 2 wire connector at the steering column base that goes up the column to the coil and bag. At the harness end to the DERM I'd use a 2 Ohm resistor to replicate the air-bag. I don't know that there are codes for coil errors or anything else related to the column. See what you get with the resistor instead of the air-bag connected.

A 2 Ohm resistor is hard to find but if there's someone that does air-bag resetting or custom interior work they will have a bag full of them. I believe air-bag guys buy them by the 100's.

The connector at the base of the column is very accessible. Maybe this connector is loose?

You could also do this. Use a known bad DERM connect it and see if it displays code 12 and then the codes 52 & 53 and then 12. You can use a DERM and access all of the connectors with out disturbing the install of the original DERM. The cables are long enough to reach the two connectors on the right side and also the two on the left side.

If you get packages sent to you regularly I've got a bad DERM that I know displays correct codes. It would seem a very simple diagnostic device.

I've just removed the CCM from my '90 and I could send a snapshot of the connectors that I mention. They're very accessible.

Hello Dave,
Thanks so much for the info and PM. I will definitely check out what you are stating and it sounds like the direction to head into. It is mind boggling to not be able to pull codes at all, yet have the symptoms and lights that I read so much about the this MY.

I can't thank you enough for offering up the help. I'll check around for the resistor too. I have not found the Japanese version of Radio Shack yet.........lol.



Craig

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Tyler Townsley

Check the connectors under the dash. Both modules have a connector in the line and they will create high resistance that mimics a bad ground. Unplug it and clean it. This should be done first before doing any work at the module as it usually clears 90% of the problems.

Tyler

An Old Thread but a Solution to the New Problem.....AFTER Re-grounding the INFL REST Crash Sensors on both Left and Right Frame Rails the Code 16 could not be cleared until the Crash Sensor Connector Inside the Car was Disconnected and Re-Connected.

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I'll bet it's what Tyler said about some corrosion at the plug for the sensor. The left side connection is right where if your door leaks it will get hit.

Rob, the air bag wiring is Yellow & the connectors are three pin round connectors. The yellow is the sheath color....you will not fail to see it as it screams at you it's that bright yellow color.

Yep....that was it for a Code 16 drivers side SIR Diagnostics (Supplemental Inflatable Restraints)

The Connector is a three pin yellow round connector and just in front of Left Speaker at the same level as the top of the speaker. All you have to do is disconnect the Connector (round yellow plug type Connector with three pins inside) and reconnect the Connector. Code 16 goes away after resetting codes. The Plug Type Connector is about three inches long and 1/2 inch diameter.

To Reset SIR Diagnostics Codes using ALDL connect A to K and turn key on. When you see INFL REST flash disconnect A to K for 3 seconds.....then reconnect A to K for 3 seconds then disconnect A to K.

[max76]

Hi dynomite, I have already clean the two sensors on the chassis, and reset the errors, but the light is always on. I never read that for reset the errors need to disconnect the connector.
To do this operation need to remove the cover under the dash on the driver side?
I hope to resolve this problem!!! :-)

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by max76

Hi dynomite, I have already clean the two sensors on the chassis, and reset the errors, but the light is always on. I never read that for reset the errors need to disconnect the connector.
To do this operation need to remove the cover under the dash on the driver side?
I hope to resolve this problem!!! :-)

The connectors themselves may have high resistance and the disconnecting and reconnecting them re-establishes the original connection.

There is a Connector inside the car under the carpet for each sensor (LH and RH). I described the location of the Drivers Side Sensor just under the Carpet in front of the Front Drivers Side Speaker at the height of the top of the speaker.

The RH (Code 26) Passenger Side Connector is located as follows......

Originally Posted by Tyler Townsley

The wire is unique. Its a single wire (not in the loom) about 1/8 in in dia and the connector for the pass side module is to the right of the hump up under the dash. Its been a long time since I did mine but I think it is white. Its one of the few wires not paired with any other wires. Its connector is unique and not like the other electrical connectors one sees in an automotive environment, its more like a IPOD stero plug.

Tyler

[max76]

Ok...thank you dynomite....
Last question...when I disconnect the connector, the battery must be isolated or I can leave it connect?
Why, before reset error, we must disconnect the connector?
Thanks

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by max76

Ok...thank you dynomite....
Last question...when I disconnect the connector, the battery must be isolated or I can leave it connect?
Why, before reset error, we must disconnect the connector?
Thanks

Disconnect the battery but I think I disconnected the connector with battery connected.

You do not normally have to disconnect the Crash Sensor but sometimes that connector is actually the issue having corroded a bit and having greater resistance when checked causing the INFL REST light to come on and a SIR Diagnostics Code 16 or 26.

In other words......the connector is the problem and not the grounding of the sensor.

Just simply disconnecting and re-connecting the connector will re-establish a good contact within the connector.

[max76]

Ok...thank you so much Dyno!!!