Started today

[Funracer]

[/IMG]

Found this under old starter cable post nut [/IMG]

New one is in:
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Found this shredded ground trapped under the left rear coil platform bolt:
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Doing other things after the starter change so have not tested yet.

[Funracer]

Moved on to replacing the original 1991 GM OEM belt:
[IMG][/IMG]

Made more difficult by the front end stiffener bar put in about 20 yrs ago:[/IMG]

Something in common with Ricky Bobby:
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[Funracer]

Next up IH coolant bypass:
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Enough for one day.

[Funracer]

Started and ran perfectly today, then started again right after 20 minute drive. Problem solved!

[Halinmontana]

Congrats. Just sent you a PM. I am located close by in Panama City Beach.

[Blownrunner]

Next time I pull the plenum, gonna do the throttle body coolant bypass. Sucks having to mess with all the damn coolant.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Blownrunner

Next time I pull the plenum, gonna do the throttle body coolant bypass. Sucks having to mess with all the damn coolant.

I am assuming you are talking about Throttle Body Coolant Blocking (not Bypass) at the Injector Housings.
This can be done without removing the Injector Housings but does help if you remove the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds.

Injector Housing TB Coolant Blocking




Note: Getting the Air Out of the Water Pump after Blocking TB Coolant.
See LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified for the Simplified Discussion regarding The Air Locked Water Pump.

After you have filled the Coolant System with Coolant using both "Ls" (each Injector Housing Coolant Manifold)........

1. Disconnect the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" and tip it up. Fill that "L" with coolant and blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the passenger side water pump inlet and passenger side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump.

2. Refill the Drivers Side "L" with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold where you have disconnect the "L".

When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort).



Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 30 seconds), your coolant is NOT flowing.