Oil pan bolts

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Vetman

Thanks. I will order from jerry! Is this a relatively easy job?

Replacing the Oil Cooler Hose Assembly is very easily accomplished. Use a small socket (to remove the bolt holding the Oil Cooler Hose Assembly to the Oil Cooler) and use an open end of appropriate size for the hose assembly Nuts screwed onto the Oil Filter Adapter. There are two "O" rings on the Oil Cooler Adapter to Oil Cooler.

Tightening the OPRV Valve (Oil Pressure Regulating Valve) Cover Plate bolts is another story because of lack of access

[orthodoct]

I am pulling exhaust manifolds for headers. Removed AIR pumps and all of its invasive tentacles. Got a few questions:
1. Replace engine heat shields that bolt to oil pan?
2. Just leave AIR pump connectors hanging?
3.. Just finished top end rebuild. New oil leak (or last remaining one) front DRIVERS edge of oil pan. Area around front cover appears dry, but some on front edge of crossmember. Thinking of removing K braces to get a better look. Oil pan gasket? Drove about 100 miles since top end rebuild and oil appears fresh, but no drips on floor.
Thanks!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by orthodoct

I am pulling exhaust manifolds for headers. Removed AIR pumps and all of its invasive tentacles. Got a few questions:
1. Replace engine heat shields that bolt to oil pan?
2. Just leave AIR pump connectors hanging?
3.. Just finished top end rebuild. New oil leak (or last remaining one) front DRIVERS edge of oil pan. Area around front cover appears dry, but some on front edge of crossmember. Thinking of removing K braces to get a better look. Oil pan gasket? Drove about 100 miles since top end rebuild and oil appears fresh, but no drips on floor.
Thanks!

Yes....use the heat shields to help keep the O2 sensor wiring away from the exhaust. Take a grinder and just modify the heat shields so they fit within 1/8 inch of the new Headers without contacting the Headers.

Remove the Air pump and all that associated stuff. See Item #5 LT5 Eliminated Systems

I would say your OPRV Cover is a bit loose. See Item #2 Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate

[orthodoct]

Dynomite, I think that you are right. I have exhaust manifolds off and looks like the way to get at that corner is by removing right engine mount. Will also allow access to O2 sensor connector. Heard that the leads need to be lengthened to allow sufficient length to connect to Stainless Works headers, or better yet, fabricate an adapter. The wire used is stranded with teflon insulation in a head resistant sleeve. Terminal Supply Company sells all of the connectors originally used on the ZR1, but digging out what is needed is like searching for a needle in a haystack. I'm familiar with their site and can maybe get some parts, wire, sleeve to make up some adapters. Jerry could then maybe offer them. What lengths would be needed, driver and passenger? I rebuilt the A/C clutch connector when it crumbled from parts from Terminal supply; factory correct. Part of drivers O2 sensor connector crumbled when removed. Could MAYBE find caps for connectors used on AIR system to protect them. Will be happy to share all that I find with the group. You have all been very gracious, and I will be honored to contribute.
TY

[orthodoct]

should be HEAT resistant sleeve!