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10-03-2014
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,708
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
Swap out interior bulbs to LEDS. They can be on for days without draining the battery. You could also put a little 2sided emblem adhesive behind the door switch. That will bring the plunger closer and make sure it turns off.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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10-03-2014
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#12 |
 Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 838
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
The LED bulbs is a good idea.
I think the switch just needs to be replaced altogether. I assume the interior door panel needs to come off? What is the best place to get a new one.
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Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration |
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10-03-2014
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#13 | |
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,689
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
Quote:
Unfortunately the only door switches I have been able to buy are a cheap replica of the original AC Delco switch. I had one fail the first time I shut the door. I buy them three at a time now because I know some will fail quickly. GM Part 10098478. I get them from GMPartsDirect.com There is an oval plate behind the switch that the two screws attach to. The trick is to remove the switch without dropping the plate down into the door. Remove both the screws. Next wiggle the switch and pull the switch and the connector out through the hole. The plate is on the wire, inside the door, at this point. Replace the switch on the connector. Using a right angle tipped pick tool, thread it through one of the screw holes in the door and then through one of the screw holes in the plate. Pull the plate against the opening and thread the connector and the switch into the door. The pick will hold the plate so you can start a screw in the other screw hole. Once the first screw has engaged with the plate, remove the pick and start the second screw. Good luck, Jim
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If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member |
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10-03-2014
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 838
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
Quote:
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Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration |
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10-04-2014
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 783
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
I would check the terminals. undo the neg and positive and clean them and put them back on. I had a similar issue once and the terminal was corroded a bit and not very tight. Just thought I'd chime in a simple step that you could check before proceeding.
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10-04-2014
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#16 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
Interior lights staying on COULD be the Delayed Accessory Bus, if equipped...
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] |
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10-04-2014
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#17 | |
  
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,155
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Re: Dead battery from a freak eletrical issue?
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director  91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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