remoning the secondaries how? - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

8upZR1 · 06-17-2007

I have done this myself and found no noticeable decrease in power, no gain either though. I am the type of person who can't feel a measly +/-20 hp so i dunno for sure (jaded over the years). I did not mess with the computer calibrations and it did not seem to care. This is probably one of those deals where you just have to try it on your car. Some cars will run fine, some might take a ****. Only one way to know.

The first time I did this I simply held the secondaries open using zip ties. I used two put together as one for length and used zip ties that have an eyehole built into the end to put a screw through. I popped off the actuator rod from the linkage to expose the nub where it attaches. I then attached the zip tie's eyehole to the nub and wrapped the zip tie around the actuator bracket or the fuel rail bracket while holding the secondaries open by hand. It was quite easy and worked perfectly for a total investment of $0.20 and 1/2 hour.

The second time around I physically removed the actual throttles from the head. This meant pulling the heads, removing blades and shafts, ( goodluck with the bearings) and welding up the holes that were left over. This was labor intensive but free. An added plus to this setup (though I did not utilize this) is that it makes eight perfect bungs for a VERY hidden direct port nitrous install. Sollenoids can be hidden under the coil tray by the starter, and there is fuel and plenty of wiring/tubing running in and out to hide everything. This setup is impossible to detect and is +300HP capable. Just an added bonus I guess of going through the extra work.

The first time around I left all of the vacuum routing stock. I left the actuators in the car and left them plugged in so that the computer would not have a clue. This seemed to work great. The second time around I wanted to clean up under the plenum and so I removed everything that was unnecessary. What is necessary? The computer monitors the vacuum signal that the actuators receive by using a second MAP sensor. It is located by the battery. When the secondary throttle solenoid opens engine vacuum is applied to the actuators and the MAP. When the solenoid closes atmospheric pressure is read by the MAP. The computer must see zero vacuum at that MAP when the solenoid is closed and vacuum when it is open. If it does not, it will most likely take a **** on you and you will need computer tuning then. I kept the computer happy and it never gave me a hassle. ( about the secondaries anyway)

I hope this helps. If you want to know more just ask.

06-17-2007	#11
8upZR1 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Thunderbolt, Ga. Posts: 253	Re: remoning the secondaries how? I have done this myself and found no noticeable decrease in power, no gain either though. I am the type of person who can't feel a measly +/-20 hp so i dunno for sure (jaded over the years). I did not mess with the computer calibrations and it did not seem to care. This is probably one of those deals where you just have to try it on your car. Some cars will run fine, some might take a **. Only one way to know. The first time I did this I simply held the secondaries open using zip ties. I used two put together as one for length and used zip ties that have an eyehole built into the end to put a screw through. I popped off the actuator rod from the linkage to expose the nub where it attaches. I then attached the zip tie's eyehole to the nub and wrapped the zip tie around the actuator bracket or the fuel rail bracket while holding the secondaries open by hand. It was quite easy and worked perfectly for a total investment of $0.20 and 1/2 hour. The second time around I physically removed the actual throttles from the head. This meant pulling the heads, removing blades and shafts, ( goodluck with the bearings) and welding up the holes that were left over. This was labor intensive but free. An added plus to this setup (though I did not utilize this) is that it makes eight perfect bungs for a VERY hidden direct port nitrous install. Sollenoids can be hidden under the coil tray by the starter, and there is fuel and plenty of wiring/tubing running in and out to hide everything. This setup is impossible to detect and is +300HP capable. Just an added bonus I guess of going through the extra work. The first time around I left all of the vacuum routing stock. I left the actuators in the car and left them plugged in so that the computer would not have a clue. This seemed to work great. The second time around I wanted to clean up under the plenum and so I removed everything that was unnecessary. What is necessary? The computer monitors the vacuum signal that the actuators receive by using a second MAP sensor. It is located by the battery. When the secondary throttle solenoid opens engine vacuum is applied to the actuators and the MAP. When the solenoid closes atmospheric pressure is read by the MAP. The computer must see zero vacuum at that MAP when the solenoid is closed and vacuum when it is open. If it does not, it will most likely take a ** on you and you will need computer tuning then. I kept the computer happy and it never gave me a hassle. ( about the secondaries anyway) I hope this helps. If you want to know more just ask. __________________ IT IS THE FATE OF THE INNOCENT TO MEET WITH DEATH!!!