Exhaust install - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

TomZR1 · 03-17-2014

Ok started removing exhaust was sort of easy,mufflers rear y pipe came off fine but front y pipe I'm having a hard time with,i got bottom 2 bolts off on collector,top bolt I can't get to.i think I'm going to have to use sawzaw to cut pipe off to get to bolt so I can get leverage on ratchet.is this normal or em I going at it wrong.car is on jack stands so its a little difficult,new exhaust should go on easy ( flowmaster cat back) any tips would be appreciated

mike100 · 03-17-2014

you might consider getting a curved wrench ('S' and 'C' shaped) and a better set of universals. You should be able to get some combination of wrenches and sockets squarely on the triangular flange top bolt without cutting anything.

QB93Z · 03-18-2014

To get that top bolt, I use a 3/8 drive, six-point socket, a universal and enough extensions (8 -10 inches worth) to get the wrench handle back past the bend in the exhaust pipe. This keeps your applied torque as parallel as possible with the bolt.

Soak the bolt in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil over night.

If the bolt breaks, it is possible to drill out the broken piece and run in a tap to restore the threads in the three-bolt flange. I have done this repair three times on different cars.

Good luck!

Jim

scottfab · 03-18-2014

The top bolts can be removed even though you can't actually see them.
Just by feel you can get the needed socket on with several extensions. The trick I use along with a WD40 soaking is to first tighten then loosen.
Do this alternatively back and forth, CW then CCW etc.
Once loose I attach the pneumatic driver to do the rest.
It's a real time saver.
Good luck

We Gone · 03-18-2014

If it so tight you think your going to twist it off and WD-40 does not work slip a flat piece of tin over the collector to protect the floor pan and add heat, works every time.

Paul Workman · 03-18-2014

Heat. If you have room for the "blue wrench"without cooking something?

scottfab · 03-18-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Heat. If you have room for the "blue wrench"without cooking something?

I do remember using a hand held torch to get one of the lower ones loose.

TomZR1 · 03-18-2014

Got them all off wasn't easy:mad,a few red bulls and went at it,ended up cutting pipe wright before flange put a ratchet on bolt and pushed like hell with my leg,passenger side same thing and boom came loose.exhaust is all out,no spray no heat just some leg muscle,remember cars on jack stands.will post picks when done, btw mufflers had a lot!!! Of water in them is that normal?

scottfab · 03-18-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomZR1

Got them all off wasn't easy:mad,a few red bulls and went at it,ended up cutting pipe wright before flange put a ratchet on bolt and pushed like hell with my leg,passenger side same thing and boom came loose.exhaust is all out,no spray no heat just some leg muscle,remember cars on jack stands.will post picks when done, btw mufflers had a lot!!! Of water in them is that normal?

Water would be normal for a car with many short trips.

scottfab · 03-18-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomZR1

Got them all off wasn't easy:mad,a few red bulls and went at it,ended up cutting pipe wright before flange put a ratchet on bolt and pushed like hell with my leg,passenger side same thing and boom came loose.exhaust is all out,no spray no heat just some leg muscle,remember cars on jack stands.will post picks when done, btw mufflers had a lot!!! Of water in them is that normal?

I get splatterings of carbon and water on my garage door upon starting.

03-17-2014	#1
TomZR1 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Macomb twp,Michigan Posts: 108	Exhaust install Ok started removing exhaust was sort of easy,mufflers rear y pipe came off fine but front y pipe I'm having a hard time with,i got bottom 2 bolts off on collector,top bolt I can't get to.i think I'm going to have to use sawzaw to cut pipe off to get to bolt so I can get leverage on ratchet.is this normal or em I going at it wrong.car is on jack stands so its a little difficult,new exhaust should go on easy ( flowmaster cat back) any tips would be appreciated

03-17-2014	#2
mike100 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: San Marcos CA Posts: 1,802	Re: Exhaust install you might consider getting a curved wrench ('S' and 'C' shaped) and a better set of universals. You should be able to get some combination of wrenches and sockets squarely on the triangular flange top bolt without cutting anything.

03-18-2014	#3
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,687	Re: Exhaust install To get that top bolt, I use a 3/8 drive, six-point socket, a universal and enough extensions (8 -10 inches worth) to get the wrench handle back past the bend in the exhaust pipe. This keeps your applied torque as parallel as possible with the bolt. Soak the bolt in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil over night. If the bolt breaks, it is possible to drill out the broken piece and run in a tap to restore the threads in the three-bolt flange. I have done this repair three times on different cars. Good luck! Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member

03-18-2014	#4
scottfab Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side) Posts: 3,207	Re: Exhaust install The top bolts can be removed even though you can't actually see them. Just by feel you can get the needed socket on with several extensions. The trick I use along with a WD40 soaking is to first tighten then loosen. Do this alternatively back and forth, CW then CCW etc. Once loose I attach the pneumatic driver to do the rest. It's a real time saver. Good luck __________________ Scott Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people

03-18-2014	#5
We Gone Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: ATL. GA. Posts: 2,163	Re: Exhaust install If it so tight you think your going to twist it off and WD-40 does not work slip a flat piece of tin over the collector to protect the floor pan and add heat, works every time. __________________ Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold

03-18-2014	#6
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: Exhaust install Heat. If you have room for the "blue wrench"without cooking something? __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry

03-18-2014	#8
TomZR1 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Macomb twp,Michigan Posts: 108	Re: Exhaust install Got them all off wasn't easy:mad,a few red bulls and went at it,ended up cutting pipe wright before flange put a ratchet on bolt and pushed like hell with my leg,passenger side same thing and boom came loose.exhaust is all out,no spray no heat just some leg muscle,remember cars on jack stands.will post picks when done, btw mufflers had a lot!!! Of water in them is that normal?