Help with splitting thermostat housing - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Franke · 01-18-2014

"Computerized engine systems require a operating temperature of about 195 degrees. The emission controls as well fuel and spark systems are all calibrated to work within a given temperature range. The wrong one for the application can cause driveability, economy, emissions, and performance problems."

HAWAIIZR-1 · 01-19-2014

Thanks to all. I appreciate all the comments and tips. All went well, but the tapping and WD-40 did not help me out in this case. What I found when I finally did pry it open was there was a sealant causing the halves to appear stuck. I also found I had a 165 degree thermostat and not a 160. It was good to do that I as learned more about the car and all the other work I did at the same time. I can see how well designed the seal is with the housing and the cover so just cleaned it all up and put it back together with anti-seize on the bolts. So much easier to do this with the SAMCO hoses than the stock stuff.

WVZR-1 · 01-19-2014

After seeing "Schrades" deadly "signature" I was going to suggest a small pocket "knife blade" or a putty knife and a couple "taps/raps" to separate them. I assumed from your original post that there were no issues with the threads in the housing. It's good to see it behind you.

When is the ship?

HAWAIIZR-1 · 01-19-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

After seeing "Schrades" deadly "signature" I was going to suggest a small pocket "knife blade" or a putty knife and a couple "taps/raps" to separate them. I assumed from your original post that there were no issues with the threads in the housing. It's good to see it behind you.

When is the ship?

Thanks and good tips. Sort of like what Cliff suggested I wanted to find something thin but strong to try to separate. I did find a good knife blade that can be used for the future, but really limited with some of my normal resources here since most tools are in long term storage until I meet up with them it again. I spent more time looking for a bolt to the frame that dropped for the accumulator. I can't think how much time I've wasted over the years trying to find things that drop in this engine compartment. My new digital inspection camera is being charged so I can find the bolt and start the car to check for leaks, etc.

I'm trying to delay shipping the car with one last chance of a job to allow me to extend here in Japan for 2 more years. By the 3rd week of Feb I'll have to ship it since household goods pick up and no where to store it. Thanks for your thoughts!!

Schrade · 01-19-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Thanks and good tips. Sort of like what Cliff suggested I wanted to find something thin but strong to try to separate. I did find a good knife blade that can be used for the future, but really limited with some of my normal resources here since most tools are in long term storage until I meet up with them it again. I spent more time looking for a bolt to the frame that dropped for the accumulator. I can't think how much time I've wasted over the years trying to find things that drop in this engine compartment. My new digital inspection camera is being charged so I can find the bolt and start the car to check for leaks, etc.

I'm trying to delay shipping the car with one last chance of a job to allow me to extend here in Japan for 2 more years. By the 3rd week of Feb I'll have to ship it since household goods pick up and no where to store it. Thanks for your thoughts!!

You CAN'T huh? I SURE can think how much time I HAVE looked for dropped stuff!!!

I even got one I found with the seein' eye cam, and don't know where it is!

HAWAIIZR-1 · 01-20-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schrade

You CAN'T huh? I SURE can think how much time I HAVE looked for dropped stuff!!!

I even got one I found with the seein' eye cam, and don't know where it is!

I think it was part of the design to make things hard to find if dropped. I was able to find that darn bolt in less than 10 seconds with the new digital inspection camera. Definitely the best tool that I have ever invested in and can't believe I waited so long to get one. It was under the front part of the motor below the damper a bit of a ways in.

01-18-2014	#11
Franke Join Date: May 2013 Location: Beaver, PA Posts: 516	Re: Help with splitting thermostat housing "Computerized engine systems require a operating temperature of about 195 degrees. The emission controls as well fuel and spark systems are all calibrated to work within a given temperature range. The wrong one for the application can cause driveability, economy, emissions, and performance problems."

01-19-2014	#12
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,577	Re: Help with splitting thermostat housing Thanks to all. I appreciate all the comments and tips. All went well, but the tapping and WD-40 did not help me out in this case. What I found when I finally did pry it open was there was a sealant causing the halves to appear stuck. I also found I had a 165 degree thermostat and not a 160. It was good to do that I as learned more about the car and all the other work I did at the same time. I can see how well designed the seal is with the housing and the cover so just cleaned it all up and put it back together with anti-seize on the bolts. So much easier to do this with the SAMCO hoses than the stock stuff. __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

01-19-2014	#13
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,890	Re: Help with splitting thermostat housing After seeing "Schrades" deadly "signature" I was going to suggest a small pocket "knife blade" or a putty knife and a couple "taps/raps" to separate them. I assumed from your original post that there were no issues with the threads in the housing. It's good to see it behind you. When is the ship?