LT5 belt tensioner

[mgbrv8]

If you can get that part number I'll do mine even though it's not bad so i can get detailed photos and instructions for others.

Dave

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

See this is what I want to do find this info and make a thread so everyone can benifit both now and future members could you imagine a future owner 20 yrs from now that can't drive his lt5 because of a failed tensioner. Is there any way for you to go back to the parts store and get that part number???

Dave.

Marc replaces these parts.....
1. The spring and the white insulation tape that is used between the windings.
2. The inner and outer spring guide facings.
3. The damper. The damper is the black part in the picture.
4. The pivot bushing.

I say...let Marc Rebuild your Accessory Belt Tensioner for $130 including the pulley

Marc Haibeck Rebuilt Belt Tensioner

Or...tell Marc you do not need the pulley and use this pulley

In regard to the Belt Tensioner Pulley....this Pulley has a Replaceable Bearing with a removable C-Clip
See Item #9c of Bling (Carter and Others)

[mgbrv8]

There should be a Teflon or nylon pad in there to, to act as a dampener.

Dave

[Blownrunner]

I thought I would respond before this thread heats up even more with all the frustration...

OK, called up Advance auto and they told me I ordered a Dayco 89298 tensioner. The tensioner has the same basic size, but the aluminum arm that you attach the ratchet to to release tension is different. Also the rear section where it fits in the slot on the engine is different. The spring inside is also installed backwards, so it is sprung in the opposite direction. The internal springs (there are 2), pulley, teflon strips, are all the same, and this is what gets swapped.

Keep in mind, I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and am VERY mechanically inclined. I do 99% of all work on my cars, work on helicopters, heavy commercial aircraft, have three big Snap-On tool boxes, and am able to figure a lot of things out. I am saying this because if you up the two main aluminum housing parts from your old tensioner, you are screwed and your ZR-1 becomes a Mona Lisa in your garage: Aluminum is softer than steel and will crack instead of bending like steel. The tensioner parts are pressed fit together, and will need to be 'pressed' apart, and I would not really recommend a steel punch and a bench vice, a hydraulic press is preferred as it will be separated in a controlled manner using far less force than your ball-peen hammer. However, it is pretty straight forward to do.

My idea for this came from the ZR-1 specialist, as they offer this service, and I just put 2 and 2 together. I started looking at tensioners in the parts store for similarities. If you are not good with tools and spring loaded assemblies, I recommend you call the ZR-1 Specialist for the service. I figured that Dayco likely builds tensioners with the same internal parts to cover a wide variety of engines, and these parts are the ones that wear and will require replacement. I do not know the spring rates of the internal parts; the teflon parts inside were the same as far as I could tell, so again proceed at your own risk. I had belt squeal when I turned on my A/C so I thought this might be the problem, as the serpentine belt is new. I still get the squeal, so now either my compressor is going out or my belt just squeals from the additional load. The water pump pulley, power steering pulley felt fine and I had alternator rebuilt while I was 'going through the engine'. I figured I am chasing a ghost and now do not worry about it.

When the two halves are split, the assembly snaps apart, which will have to be assembled under force while trying to line up the two halves and teflon strip that gets installed inside the winds of the spring. After it is lined up, I pressed it back together, up to the point of leaving a gap between the two major parts for movement.

I don't have pictures of the process, but I hope this helps a few people out. The process described here probably is the same as the ZR-1 specialist, but once again, he knows what he is doing and has the right tools for the job.

Whew.

[Blownrunner]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

See this is what I want to do find this info and make a thread so everyone can benifit both now and future members could you imagine a future owner 20 yrs from now that can't drive his lt5 because of a failed tensioner. Is there any way for you to go back to the parts store and get that part number???

Dave.

Ya see, this is what I like about a lot of the old cars out there, when you see one in 100% working order, 100% maintained. A new ZR-1 just doesn't do it for me (even if I could afford one, I would sell it and buy my current ZR-1 plus a used old gen-2 viper and 68' Camaro for the same price for starters). The fact that the car hasn't been built in decades, is rare, and is unattainable to people whom can't and will work on these dinosaurs is their appeal.

[mike100]

Looking forward to some kind of solution because I got one of the last new ones a couple of years ago. My original bad one isn't real bad, just sort of hangs up in its normal range of motion and doesn't tension as much as it should. It would seem to be rebuildable.

[mgbrv8]

Originally Posted by Blownrunner

I thought I would respond before this thread heats up even more with all the frustration...

OK, called up Advance auto and they told me I ordered a Dayco 89298 tensioner. The tensioner has the same basic size, but the aluminum arm that you attach the ratchet to to release tension is different. Also the rear section where it fits in the slot on the engine is different. The spring inside is also installed backwards, so it is sprung in the opposite direction. The internal springs (there are 2), pulley, teflon strips, are all the same, and this is what gets swapped.

Keep in mind, I am an aircraft mechanic by trade and am VERY mechanically inclined. I do 99% of all work on my cars, work on helicopters, heavy commercial aircraft, have three big Snap-On tool boxes, and am able to figure a lot of things out. I am saying this because if you up the two main aluminum housing parts from your old tensioner, you are screwed and your ZR-1 becomes a Mona Lisa in your garage: Aluminum is softer than steel and will crack instead of bending like steel. The tensioner parts are pressed fit together, and will need to be 'pressed' apart, and I would not really recommend a steel punch and a bench vice, a hydraulic press is preferred as it will be separated in a controlled manner using far less force than your ball-peen hammer. However, it is pretty straight forward to do.

My idea for this came from the ZR-1 specialist, as they offer this service, and I just put 2 and 2 together. I started looking at tensioners in the parts store for similarities. If you are not good with tools and spring loaded assemblies, I recommend you call the ZR-1 Specialist for the service. I figured that Dayco likely builds tensioners with the same internal parts to cover a wide variety of engines, and these parts are the ones that wear and will require replacement. I do not know the spring rates of the internal parts; the teflon parts inside were the same as far as I could tell, so again proceed at your own risk. I had belt squeal when I turned on my A/C so I thought this might be the problem, as the serpentine belt is new. I still get the squeal, so now either my compressor is going out or my belt just squeals from the additional load. The water pump pulley, power steering pulley felt fine and I had alternator rebuilt while I was 'going through the engine'. I figured I am chasing a ghost and now do not worry about it.

When the two halves are split, the assembly snaps apart, which will have to be assembled under force while trying to line up the two halves and teflon strip that gets installed inside the winds of the spring. After it is lined up, I pressed it back together, up to the point of leaving a gap between the two major parts for movement.

I don't have pictures of the process, but I hope this helps a few people out. The process described here probably is the same as the ZR-1 specialist, but once again, he knows what he is doing and has the right tools for the job.

Whew.

Very helpful thank you sir

Dave