Removing Cam Cover Bolts the Hard Way

[Dynomite]

Removing Cam Covers for Camshaft Timing Inspection, replacement of PCV filters, checking top Timing Chain Guide for wear

Removing Torx 40 bolts Not so easy......but then turned out very easy.

1. Cam Covers were removed by first removing Bolts from C-Frame, Loosening Engine Mount Bolts and then dropping Transmission a bit so cam covers could clear Brake Booster (two Torx-40 bolts near brake booster were removed with cam cover). On the Passenger side the Temperature sensor for Evaporator was removed easily and set aside (plenty room to then remove cam cover bolts and then cam cover on passenger side). The Transmission was lowered to remove Torx-40s on passenger side and then raised to remove Cam Cover on passenger side clearing Fire Wall bolts.

2. Now the Hard Part......as can be seen five Torx-40 Cam Cover Bolts failed in the Torx receiver on the bolt head even though considerable downward pressure was applied to the Torx-40 socket/wrench. Several types of Torx 40s wrenches had to be used because of the clearance. Considerably more torque than the 19 ft-lbs for Torx-40 Cam Cover bolt installation was applied trying to remove them (a cheater on a 1/2 inch socket wrench)

3. Now the Easy Part........What to do.....Drill, Heat....Torch...
a. I tried drilling and ruined three drill bits.
b. I did not want to try heat (A little heat works great on Injector Housing for removal of Coolant Manifold Bolts) as there is no way to get heat where it is needed.
c. Chisel...........well wouldn't you know it.....Using a chisel to first notch one side of the bolt and then pounding that side counter clockwise with the chisels about 10 times without touching the Aluminum Cam Cover surface popped the bolt loose (all five). I would never have guessed it but ran out of options as I was just going to use a chisel to knock the Torx-40 bolt heads off (a poor concept in itself)




Removing Cam Cover and Camshaft Timing Inspection

[GOLDCYLON]

Stainless upgrade time

[Dynomite]

Yes.....have the SS ready
And painting cam covers also vice powder coat

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Yes.....have the SS ready
And painting cam covers also vice powder coat

Hey Cliff,
Sorry for the dumb question, but any particular reason painting over PC? Just curious and trying to learn something.

Thanks,
Craig

[Dynomite]

This my 90'.....my 91' is full PCed.

I want this up and running this next week and I figured I can always PC later.
Actually just experimenting with Rustoleum Silver (high temp)

Plenum looks great with red letters. Will post photo tomorrow.

SW complete offroad exhaust and SS intake
Air box also here next week (George Braml)

Since I have C Frame disconnected also installing ZFdoc C Frame plates.
Keeping secondaries so I can say I know how to maintain them on this 90'
And New Water pump and Randy's aluminum pulleys.

Did the usual differental drain install and the usual TB coolant elimination to make those Plenum pulls a 30 minute job

Also experimental Belt Tensioner Pulley.
Already have nice new aluminum radiator it turns out I did not know about when I got this 90'

[LGAFF]

Wow I zoomed through them with a drill bit when I did it

[WVZR-1]

This is the ideal device for loosening a "stubborn" anything and is very controlable. Used one this afternoon to remove door hardware on a '58.



There's a 1/2" also.

Here's a SnapOn link:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/print...JPG&email=true

[Schrade]

Did the assembly teams put them in dry?

Just seems that the best hardware, assembled dry, ain't the best, IMO...

When I pull ANY bolt / screw, it goes back STERILE, in a STERILE hole (with clean grease).

[Dynomite]

I removed these cam cover bolts with engine installed so you all know the limits of space. A chisel could reach most of the bolts at
the angle required to punch them counterclockwise.

I was amazed how well the chisel worked especially in tight places like the lower row of Torx-40 bolts on passenger side.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I removed these cam cover bolts with engine installed so you all know the limits of space. A chisel could reach most of the bolts however at
The angle required to punch them counterclockwise.

I was amazed how well the chisel worked.

The air hammer socket adapter destroys "nothing" better than probably 95% of the time and this '58 will go back together using the OE original hardware. There's no "oh sh!t it slipped" damage either.