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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Vicksburg, MS
Posts: 135
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I've got a few very fine (clear coat) scratches here and there that I'd like to get rid of. Any advice on how to go about doing it?
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[B][U]1991 No. 519[/U][/B] |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dunbarton NH
Posts: 7,380
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Just had an Adam's sales rep come to my house and demo products. Wife is buying me clay and a machine and polishes for Christmas. Can't wait until after xmas to use the stuff. Did my hood, all the fine scratches came out.
Get in touch with Ashley at Adam's, she can probably set you up. (And she's smokin' hot.). Adam's has both machine and hand polishes. |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,802
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go to you-tube and search up 'Junkman2000' videos. Good for people new to detailing and polishing. You need a dual action orbital polisher. Doing it by hand won't get the job done unless you have a very small job or very light scratches.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,479
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Autogeek is Currently having a 15% off sale plus free Shipping. Promo code: Black2012 it is good until Nov. 25th.
I am guessing you have never buffed a vehicle out so here is what you will need. You are going to need a good DA orbital polisher, I have the Porter Cable 7424XP I also use the Lake county CCS waffle pads when polishing. If you have minor scratches and swirls you should not have to cut into the finish. Last a good polishing compound. Do a really good job of cleaning your car first and foremost. Keep the polishing pad flat on the surface. Now Adams is a registered vendor and Autogeek is not. However Adams kit is 239.00 plus shipping http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-733-a...isher-kit.aspx Autogeek comparable kit: 245.00 + 15% off and Free shipping. http://www.autogeek.net/xmtpocainswr.html
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Robert J. DeMarco [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR=blue]G[/COLOR][COLOR=red]rand[/COLOR] [COLOR=blue]S[/COLOR][COLOR=red]port[/COLOR] Registry Lifetime Member NCM Lifetime Member #2655 Pacecar Registry Member [COLOR=red]ZOOM Charter Member - ZR-1 Owners of Michigan[/COLOR] [COLOR=plum][I]ZR-1[/I] Registry member since 2012 [/COLOR] [COLOR=black]1990 LPE "368" Aerobody ZR-1, Last ZR-1 built by John[/COLOR] 1991 Callaway Aerobody ZR-1, DRM 500 1991 Shinoda Aerobody Spyder, 1998 Pace Car Last edited by cvette98pacecar; 11-24-2012 at 12:07 AM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pineville, LA
Posts: 586
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Dime,
I won't repeat what the others have said they are spot on. I would be happy to walk you through the steps if you are not comfortable, I'm not far from you and have everything to do the job. It's not a problem for me to drive to you also you are more than welcome to come to my place. The shop is climate controlled with plenty of light. Just let me know if I can help you. Daniel |
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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Based on your description it doesn't sound like you need to use a machine or polishing compound at all. Sounds like you just need a manual clay baring. After researching extensively I use Zaino bros products. Read details and the testimonial page at: http://www.zainostore.com/ Here's there specifics on when to use an how to use: http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...C&Store_Code=Z I have no vested interest in this company. I just use ALL their stuff.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,904
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It's impossible for anyone to know exactly what you need to do without seeing the car in person.
I suggest that you hook up with Daniel. He knows what he's doing and can correctly evaluate your needs.
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,479
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Brett is exactly correct. it is hard to determine what you need done without seeing the vehicle. With that being said all the advice that you have gotten thus far is for polishing only. The machine that I suggested will not cut "burn" into the clear coat no matter how hard you try.
I would take Daniel up on his offer before you make an investment. While you are there take a good look at his White Dieline car. You cannot get that kind of shine on a white car without a mechanical buffer. To make a car shine under direct sunlight is easy, to make the paint reflect artificial light is an entirely different story. ![]() Take a look at the windshield, I got caught in the rain. ![]()
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Robert J. DeMarco [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR=blue]G[/COLOR][COLOR=red]rand[/COLOR] [COLOR=blue]S[/COLOR][COLOR=red]port[/COLOR] Registry Lifetime Member NCM Lifetime Member #2655 Pacecar Registry Member [COLOR=red]ZOOM Charter Member - ZR-1 Owners of Michigan[/COLOR] [COLOR=plum][I]ZR-1[/I] Registry member since 2012 [/COLOR] [COLOR=black]1990 LPE "368" Aerobody ZR-1, Last ZR-1 built by John[/COLOR] 1991 Callaway Aerobody ZR-1, DRM 500 1991 Shinoda Aerobody Spyder, 1998 Pace Car |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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I had very good luck removing some swirls etc using Zaino's PC Fusion and a Porter Cable 7424 orbital and a semi-dense foam pad. But, like Brett said, it is impossible to really give an answer w/o seeing it. A good Body or paint shop or professional detailer might be able to assess the paint and make a recommendation.
P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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