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#21 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,710
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#22 | |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,710
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- Bell housing thoroughly cleaned (4cans of Brake Clean follwed by Simple Green). - Tunnel throughly cleaned and additional Dynamat installed. - Rubber shift boot properly installed. Item 2 and 3 resulted in reduction of road/ehaust noise AND console area staying cool - no more luke warm Coke!!! Yes.I will be at Carlisle for sure. See you at Carlisle. ![]() |
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#23 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,696
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I just checked my boot and it was off the trans tunnel collar. with 90d heat, you could fry an egg on my console.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#24 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 119
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I've found that after a while, the factory lower boots tend to relax or swell from the adhesive used when new causing seperation from the trans tunnel lip they attach to. When I installed a new one, I remove all factory adhesive/sealant and installed dry, this way the chemicals are not there to attack the new rubber and make them swell and cause air gaps. Lowered console temps by 20 or more degrees, especially when the windows are down. With the windows up and A/C on, the gap allows cooler air to pass out of the gap on the boot causing a ldrop in efficiency for the A/C in the passenger compartment. Gibby |
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#25 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,696
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I was thinking of using a large zip tie around the collar of that boot.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#26 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,710
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I may be wrong (I may be the only sloppy one out there) but I think a lot of times when the transmission is removed for any servicing (clutch, shifter upgrade, main seal, etc...), dropping transmission with the shifter handle attached will result in rubber boot dropping with the trans (yes, I am guilty of this). Also, while installing the tranny, if not meticulous, shifter shaft could easily push the boot off. Problem is a natural tendency is to try to reinstall the boot from the top. This is very difficult due to inaccessibility to the left side of the boot/lip in the tunnel. Best time to correct this is from the bottom while the tranny is out. I used a brake tool to do this. Zip tieing (if console is disassembled sufficiently to access) certainly will guarantee that the boot will stay on.
Once seated properly, one has to be mindful of shifter shaft while pushing the tranny back onto the motor. Best is to have someone sit in the car and guide the shifter shaft top into the boot hole. This is a minor work but a little attention to detail could go a long way to improve cooling and comfort level in the summer. |
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